Accurate shooter speeds but only couple of picture after develop
Hi, I got this lovely Nikon FE a year ago on Ebay. After three films shooted not many pictures, the rest of the film appears in blank, just like if have been over sposed. Light seals look fine, shooter different speeds sound accurate. I am really disappointed as don´t see where the problem can be. The result is the same no mater the lens.( I have a sigma 28-100 and tokina 35-70) Really appreciate any help!!!
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Re: accurate shooter speeds but only couple of picture...
I HATE TO SAY THIS BUT I BELIEVE THAT YOU HAVE BEEN SOLD A DAMAGED CAMERA. THIS HAPPENS MANY TIMES ON EBAY WHEN THE DEAL SOUNDS TO GOOD TO PASS UP. FOR ONE THING YOU HAVE A NIKON FE CAMERA, BUT THEN YOU HAVE TWO DIFFERENT MAKE LENSES, BOTH ECONOMY GRADE LENSES, NOT NIKON STANDARD QUALITY. THE PROBLEMS YOU ARE HAVING ARE MOST LIKELY CAUSED FROM A CAMERA THAT HAS BEEN DROPPED. I AM INCLOSING TO HOTLINKS OF NIKON DEALERS THAT DO REPAIR WORK AND GIVE FREE ESTIMATES. YOUR BEST BET IS TO HAVE THIS CAMERA SERVICED BY A NIKON REPAIR SHOP IF YOU PLAN ON KEEPING THE CAMERA. IF YOU JUST BOUGHT IT FROM EBAY, I WOULD FILE A PROTEST STATING THE CAMERA IS BROKEN AND DOESN'T WORK AND DEMAND YOUR MONEY BACK! THEY WILL USUALLY BACK THIS TYPE OF CLAIM. GOOD LUCK! SORRY FOR YOUR MISFORTUNE.
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The F65 is a film camera. You must get the film processed before you can see any pictures. If you have the setup yourself, you can develop the film. Otherwise, take the film to a photo processing lab (any camera store and many department stores, drugstores, and supermarkets either have them or have access to one) and get it processed. If you're shooting negative film, you can get prints. If you're shooting slide film, you can get slides. Either way, you can also request a CD containing the digitized images.
Again, the F65 is a film camera. The camera can't show you the images it has taken.
The hardest thing about low light photography is balancing your available shutter speed to the amount of action you're trying to capture.
Here are a few things to try:
1) Try using a tripod. Steadying your camera during long exposures will greatly improve your image clarity.
2) Buy a faster film. You may need to increase your film's ISO setting. Try 400 to start, then go up from there. Remember, faster film always produces grainy images, and it usually costs a little more to process. If you're stuck with 100 ISO, you can always "push process" the film, where a given ISO is let to sit in its developer longer than usual--This will cost you more too!
3) Invest in a good flash system. Nikon has tons of hotshoe flash systems that rarely compromise the ambient light-mood of a given situation. Look for one that lets you aim the flash in different directions, and try to find one that will meter a light situation on its own.
4) Turn on the lights. If you're ok with losing some of the romance of an image, turn on some more lights to give you some more flexibility when making your exposure choices.
5) Open up your aperture. You may find that a lot less in depth of field will give you a lot more in image clarity and exposure flexibility. Shooting at f2.8 with only a birthday cake lighting your subject will grant you many more valuable shutter stops that shooting the same with f5.6.
Remember, Rebecca, if you're shooting handheld, you must do everything in your power to shoot with the quickest shutter speed available. This will cut down on the blurriness of your indoor images.
--Hope this helps.
I have the same problem with a Nikon F2, got it off my grandfather and its been in his attic for at least the last 10 years. I don't know if parts have seized up or if im doing something wrong. have put in new batteries, but film advance lever won't go past "on" position. have tried pressing shutter but it doesn't help. Also film winding knob will not lift up enough to load in a film! any solutions!?
Not necessarily. The EM has an M90 setting which will fire the shutter at 1/90th of a second. The meter is inactive on this setting. It was put on the EM so that if the batteries fail, you can shoot at 1/90th and take a guess at the exposure. There is also a small button (blue or chrome, depending on the production run) which lights up a red LED if the batteries are good. The light meter doesn't work until the frame counter is at 1 or higher. Before the #1, the shutter will always fire at 1/2000th of a second to speed up the film loading process. You can tell that the meter is working by observing the meter's scale/needle on the inside of the viewfinder. If it is pointing out of the red zone, it's OK to shoot (proper exposure). If the needle is in the red zone (indicating under or over exposure) the camera will "beep" as an audible warning. Check the battery condition first.
Sounds like you are having some photo taking issues. There is a rule of thumb for shooting, It is the focal length must be equal to or less than the shutter speed. Example. 100 mm lens must have 1/100 of a second or faster when hand holding a camera. If your shots are too blurry or out of focus, try using faster film speed, ie. 400 asa or 800 or 1600, try using a flash if you are going to be at 1/60 a second. The faster the film you use, allows you to have a faster shutter speed. Another option is to use a tripod, and then your shutter speed is irrelevant.
put simply the ISO number is how sensitive the film is to light, the higher the number the more sensitive the film. The ISO on the camera sets the exposure system to give the proper exposure for that film (the f/n80 usually sets the ISO automaticly). Also the higher the ISO the more grainy the picture, I would recommend using ISO 200 film for the pictures you describe. I would set the camera to the P setting it is a good all-around setting.
Sept 19th, 2008
On the bottom of the Nikon FE, there is a silver button to push in, and this releases a lock for the film.
Then on the left side, on the top, there is a white arrow and a silver lever tucked in. Wind your film, this it's all the way back in the canister. Then the black lever by the speed film (ASO) numbers, pull that back toward you. This will release the black 3/4" knob upward, and by gently pulling this upward, your door will release and the film canister will be allowed to come out. Just besure to wind your film back in the cansiter, before you open the door, or your photos will be over exposed. Best to do this in a darker area or shaddowed area, just for protection.
Good Luck. I've had mine since the mid 1970's and love it for double exposures and the special filters I have for it. The Hot Shoe for the flash attachment, just burned out on me a couple of days ago.
depending on the type of film you are using and where you are taking it could be the problem. if you are using professional film and taking it to a pharmacy to get developed, the chemicals used at these places will erase the images off the film and appear as if the film is blank.
If your film's ISO speed is relatively high (say, above ISO 200 or 400) and you're shooting in bright light, your camera's shutter/aperture won't be able to compensate for the light. In that case, using a slower film is the solution.