I know cracks in a basement cement floor can and probably will work up into tile applied over them. Can I use sheets of cement board and not attach them to the old floor, like a floating floor? Bond the edges together then set tile on top. This would allow the cracks to widen in the old slab and not affect the finished tile floor, possibly?
You can get a crack membrane to put over the cracks. First use a primer on the floor, this is a primer just for this application, then put membrane on top of primer. these products can be found at home depot or lowes or any tile store.Also do not use cheep thinset. the better thinset is more flexible and will absorb any movement. The cement board would not work as they will move or flex and cause the grout to crack and tile to loosen
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you cannot, only way is to replace crack tile. any "hairline restorer" "hairline paint" are simple cons and do not work! crack meant that these two bits move differently and need to be replaced with single unit, matter will go only worse.
I would try breaking the tile up with hammer instead of prying from side, as you maybe chip or crack adjoining tiles. This method should work fine, you may loosen surrounding tiles but just re-mortar any tiles that may become loose. Wear eye protection. Good luck
You can install tile over tile. However here are the risks. The new tiles will require at least 3/16" of tile adhesive UNDER the tiles when put in place after they have been pressed into position. Additionally the trim around the tiles willhave to be removed and elevated the distance of the tile thickness and the 3/16" grout distance. The tiles if on the second floor of a home will easily losen due to the expansion and contraction of the home and the difference in the 2 types of tiles expansion and contraction rates.
It is not difficult to remove old tiles. You use a flat bar type scraping tool and the old tiles usually will pop right up off the floor. You will have to break maybe 2 tiles to get started but after that they are easy to remove.
My experience in my own fully tiled in all rooms 2900 sq ft home in the tropics is that I have to remove the old tiles as over time the new tiles losen on top of the old tiles. I have tried it several times and have had at least 1 tile come loose each time.
I have a similar problem. My builder used dimensional lumber for the joists. I asked him if thet would be sufficiently stiff for tile floors, and he said yes. Then after the cracks started, I asked him why the cracks, but he said he didn't know why. It's not necessarily the subfloor but the combination of joists, subfloor, and concrete backer boards under the tile. If you can access the joists under the floor, perhaps you can reinforce them with additional joists or stiffeners before regrouting.
As for me, I have done neither so far. Wife has not complained, so I spend my spare time helping people on FixYa. Like you, I fear regrouting will just lead to recracking, and I no longer have access to the joists. :o(
By the way, your question was sorted as a Harley Davidson question. You weren't riding you bike in the kitchen, were you?
There is a tile backer, kinda of like fiberglass mesh, I have also seen a waffle looking plastic, that will go down over the crack in the floor and will not effect the tile one bit. You just tile over everything, no mastic, no set under this stuff, no fasteners, just tile over it like a normal floor, and the best part is, no crack! Hope this helps.
it depends on what kind of tiles they were. If they were soft tile, then they may crack anyway if the floor is not level, also if he made the floor uneven by using the adhesive they can crack. Many soft tiles are peel and stick and no adhesive is needed. If they were hard stone tiles then he should have been using grout to stick them down and grout the cracks in between as well. It sounds like you need to have someone else come in and re-access the problem as I can't see the whole situation, but it sounds like the tiles may need to come back up. You can either get the same guy to come back and fix his mistake or get some one else to fix it then go after him to messing it up. If you want to choose another person I recommend looking at www.superpages.com.
It sounds like the ground has settled around the area where the leak is, hence the traveling water. The right way to fix the problem would be to remove the porch, dig up around the basement wall, apply a sealant to the outside of the wall, install weeping tile and re-grade the soil to drain away from the house. Your best bet to begin with may be to try to re-grade the soil so it is sloping away from the house, however this is only a temporary patch, if temperatures get below freezing there is a possibility that moisture in any crack in the wall could cause further cracking and leaks.