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My Pioneer GM 5300t amplifier blows fuses all of the time. It says to have two 30 watt fuses in it and thats what i have yet they still keep on blowing. My subwoofer is a Pioneer TS-W302R Twelve-Inch

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  • j_mezzy_69 Nov 14, 2008

    Hey Dave. Thanks for the advice so far. And hopefully i can give some more info here to help.



    -The only thing hooked up to the amplifier is the subwoofer i noted in my problem above.

    -The amplifier will blow the fuse after it has been running for awhile especially when it's at a higher volume.

    -I'm not sure if this is important information or not but every time one of my fuses gets blown it is always the fuse thats in the same box you hook them into or however you want to call that. For example my amp is drilled on to the box for my subwoofer so it is basically "standing up" and it has always been the bottom of the two fuse boxes that gets blown.



    Let me know if there is any other information you need to help solve this problem and thanks for your help.



    Josh

  • j_mezzy_69 Nov 15, 2008

    Thanks for your help Dave. I will test the speaker and amplifier as soon as i can and hopefully i can get that fixed.

    Thanks



    Josh

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Do not continue to put new fuses into the amp until you have figured out what is causing the problem. It will only increase the chances of causing more damage to the amplifier. I have been repairing car and home amplifiers for over 18 years and have a lot of experience with Pioneer amplifiers since I work at an authorized Pioneer service center.

This post will be long, but if you bear with me and forgive my long-winded answers you may be able to determain your problem even tho I really don't have enough information to figure it out yet. If not, we can get a little closer with more information.

Does the amplifier blow the fuse as soon as you connect power to it, or as soon as a new fuse is put into the amp? If so, the amplifier has some shorted components in the power supply. They have a bank of mosfet transistors in the power supply that sometimes get shorted when the amp has been pushed beyond it's ability, or just from a random part failure, or if the impedance of the speakers is too low. Your speaker is a 4 ohm speaker, if it is at a lower impedance than 3 ohms when measured with an ohm meter then it will need to be replaced. Even if it still plays, it is too low of a load for the amplifier and will cause more current to go thru the amp than what it was designed for. If you are using more than one speaker and have them bridged it will do the same thing. This amp is rated at 4 ohms bridged and 2 ohms per channel stereo. When you connect 2 speakers together and then bridge them they become a 2 ohm load which causes double the amount of current to flow thru the amp. It was not designed for that. Sometimes you can get these component failures just because there may be a solder joint or two inside the amplifier that is cracked and not making connection very well and this can cause components to short out because they are not operating at the proper voltage.

If your amp blows the fuse only after it has been turned on by your head unit, you will most likely have a blown channel. This would require the replacement of the output transistors of the bad channel as well as a few resistors and sometimes a few other parts.

If your amp will turn on and play for a while and then blow the fuse at higher volume levels or after a long time playing the problem can be either a bad speaker at a lower impedance or one or more components that are breaking down after they get hot or at a certain volume level.

As you can tell by now there are many reasons that an amplifier can blow the fuses, and figuring out just what the cause is can sometimes be a difficult task. It may require that you have a multimeter to do some checks on the amp and a power supply to power the amp on a bench so you can do those tests.

If this information has not helped you to determain the problem, please give me as much information as you can about how you are using the amp. How many speakers, where they are connected, at what point does the amp blow the fuse, and anything else that you can think of that may or may not be important. You never know what might give a better clue, too much information is always better than too little.

Thanks and good luck,

Dave

Posted on Nov 13, 2008

  • Dave DeGain
    Dave DeGain Nov 14, 2008

    With the symptoms you have, the amp is overheating and when it overheats the output transistors and the power supply transistors will draw more current than normal. This can be due to a leaky output transistor or it can be because of the speaker. You must have your speaker checked. I know that it sounds OK to you, but if it is measuring at less than 3 ohms it is causing the amp to be overdriven. You have one speaker and it is probably bridged. In the bridged mode the amp is only rated at 4 ohms. If your speaker is getting a lower measurement than 3 ohms it is starting to go bad. even if it sounds OK.
    Eventually it will short out completely, given more time and playing at loud volume levels.

    If the speaker checks out good and measures at over 3 or 3.5 ohms, then you need the amplifier checked out by a technician because you are either overdriving the amp or it has some weakened components in one of the output channels. There is no easy fix for the amplifier having some components that are breaking down under the stress of a heavy load.

    It really doesn't matter which fuse is blowing, they are both in parallel which means that they are connected to the same spots electrically. That fuse may just have a bit more solder on the spots that connect it to the circuit board which would allow for a little more current to flow thru it and then that fuse would blow just a bit quicker than the other fuse.

    BTW, thanks for the "Helpful" rating, but it actually caused my overall rating to go down. Only a FixYa! rating helps my ratings. If my advice is followed, it will fix your amplifier. It is rare that anybody can actually fix a piece of high tech electronics themself just from advice on a forum when the problem is something that they are not able to fix because of the lack of proper tools and test equipment. I would not be able to fix your amp myself unless I have a power supply, multimeter, soldering equipment, and the schematics handy (which I do, but unlikely that you do) even though I do have all the knowledge concerning these types of units.

    Well, I hope this helps. I think you need a few things checked, starting with your speaker. It may just be that you are overdriving the amplifier. A service center can test your amplifier on a bench to determain if it is operating at the specs it was designed for. If it is operating at the designed specs, you are overdriving it. You may just need to turn down the input gain adjustment a little. If you want more sound than it will give you, then you will need to upgrade to a more powerful amplifier and always make sure that what ever speaker you are using is rated a little bit higher than what the amplifier is rated for. If your speaker is rated at the same or less than the amp, you risk blowing up the speaker, and if the speaker blows it can also take out the amp at the same time. The ratings on both the speakers and amplifiers should always be determined by the RMS wattage, not the peak wattage. RMS wattage is the true power, peak wattage is a little misleading. If a speaker or an amplifier is only listed as "peak" wattage you can determain the RMS wattage by taking the peak wattage and multiply it by 0.707 and then you will know the true RMS power is.

    Dave

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Larry T
Winona Lake, IN
http://www.cybersoundsaudio.com/cybersounds/vehiclepics.html

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