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Changing heater element in kenmore dryer (110.60702990)

I am changing the heater element in my Kenmore Electric dryer. I am also changing the TCO and hi/lo thermostats. I am concerned that the wiring connections for the replacement parts do not match exisitng wiring connections. Mainly, I had a small orange colored wire connected to the thermostat but the new connections do not allow mw to connect that wire anywhere. I purchesed the parts through AP Wagner and they are the appropriate replacement parts.

My question is basically, will the functionality of the dryer be changed if the orange wire is not connected to the thermostat or the heater element?

Thanks
Tom Benusa

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The orange wire is for the timer if you do not connect it then the cycles wont work.the timed cycle will but not the other cycles.

Posted on Nov 13, 2008

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I have a kenmore Electronic Fabricmaster dryer and does not provide heat when drying. I need to change the element. How!


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My kenmore dryer model 86873100 will not heat


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Oct 11, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

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My kenmore series 80 electric dryer does not heat. I am replacing the TCO, but it does not appear to be hooked up. There are red wires going directly into the heating element, but the TCO lead is...


Yes, hook it up, but before you do that Vacuumn every piece of lint out of the cabinet. Also check TCO and check the thermostats for continuity. They should all read zero ohms.If one of them is open, replace it.

Also use your ohmmeter to check the heating element, It should not show an open condition.

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Kenmore Elite He4 Dryer Model Number 110.85872400 won't heat up and dry clothes; husband thinks it is the heating element but is having a hard time gett it out


Before assuming you have a bad heating element, read through the following link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Most dryer heat related problems are attributed to poor ventilation which, in turn, causes the dryer to overheat to the point of failure. More commonly the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) fails. The component acts as a fuse and must be replaced if bad. In addition, if the TCO is determined to be defective, it is recommended that you replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat at the same time. Both these components work in conjunction with the heating element and are mounted on the heater box. The TCO is located on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat is located adjacent to the heating element leads. These two components are often sold as a kit. If you fail to replace both of them you can experience premature failure of the component you do replace.

Pay particular attention to the section that discusses proper dryer ventilation. If you haven't checked or cleaned the exhaust ducting any time recently, now might be a good time to do so . A dryer left in a clogged or poorly ventilated condition will cause repeated failures in the heating circuit. Not to mention this creates a fire hazard.

If you read through the link and determine that you have a bad heating element, follow these steps to remove:

1. Unplug the dryer and remove the lower panel under the door.
2. Remove the lint screen from the dryer door.
3. Remove the blower fan housing vent cover.
4. Disconnect and label the component wiring on the heater box.
5. Loosen the mounting screw on the heater box front support.
6. The entire heater box, with element inside, should slide out of the dryer.
7. There should be a couple of mounting screws on the component side of the heater box that you need to remove and the entire element slides out.

If you still have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Jun 12, 2009 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

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I found a bird's nest in the outside exhaust vent of my dryer yesterday. Now the dryer is blowing cold air out of the vent and will not dry the clothes.


The obstruction in the dryer exhaust vent more than likely caused the dryer to overheat. The most common culprit is your Thermal Cut-Out (TCO). The TCO acts like a fuse and will blow when the dryer overheats. It is designed to protect the heating element. The following link explains how to troubleshoot:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Read through the link and check all possible causes. If you determine the TCO to be faulty, replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat at the same time. These components are often sold as a kit. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any components you replace.

If you have questions along the way, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

PS The TCO and Hi-Limit Thermostat are mounted on the heater box. The TCO will be on the end opposite the heating element terminals, while the Hi-Limit Thermostat is adjacent to the element terminal leads.

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Jan 07, 2009 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore Dryer


If you go to searspartsdirect.com, type in your model number in the Search menu, then look under the "Bulkhead" menu option, you will see an illustration of your dryer. You will need to remove the heater box cover (item #5) to get to the heating element. The element should slide out of the bottom of the heater box housing. Removing the housing from the dryer first makes it easier. Sometimes you may need a little muscle in getting the heater coil to come out.

Have you checked the thermal cut-out(TCO)/hi limit thermostat? This is item #1 in the drawing. If your dryer runs, but does not heat, this is normally the culprit. You are right to assume you could have a heating element problem, but the element tends to be more resilient. In my experience with electric dryers, the thermal cut-out tends to go bad first. It's easier to check and easier to replace as it is mounted on the outside of the heater box. Check for the following:

With the heater box STILL installed, the TCO will be a small component mounted at the top of the heater box housing. The hi-limit thermostat will be mounted at the bottom of the heater box housing next to the ceramic terminal of the heating element. With the dryer UNPLUGGED, disconnect the wires to the TCO and do a resistance reading. It should read 0 ohms if good. Do the same with the hi-limit thermostat. It should also read 0 ohms if good. Last of all perform a reading across the leads of the heating element with the wires unplugged. You should get a reading of 9 - 13 ohms if it is good. If you determine the TCO or hi-limit thermostat to be bad, it is HIGHLY recommended that you replace them BOTH at the same time. They are sold as a set (part #279769). Failure to replace both components could result in part failure. The part number for the heating element is 4391960. I hope this helps you.

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