I have bought an investment home that has a Whirlpool E1F30HD035V water heater. There are three connections on the top and one on the side, one on top is clearly the output for the unit, one on top appears to be the inlet, one on the side has the pop-off valve, and I have an additional top connection that had a CPVC hookup that is broken.
I've never seen a side pop-off valve (only on top) so I'm stumped about what the extra top connection is used for and how to connect it.
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My family has enjoyed the convenience and health benefits of drinking bottled water for several years. We have used a drinking appliance where the bottled is upturned and the water is gravity-fed. The water is then heated and cooled and served from hot and cold spigots. (I've seen other types of dispensers when the bottle goes upright inside the cabinet and is pumped into the water pitcher.)
The heated water quit working recently but the refrigerated part was OK. After noting how some members of my family used the dispenser, I have solved the problem. It is caused by the water level running too low in the mini water heater causing the element to burn out. Low water doesn't harm the mini-frig part. Low water levels are caused by using the bottle past empty and continuing to take water until it almost stops coming out. This "starves" the water heater, consequently burning out the element! Always replace the bottle on top before it gets past empty! If it gurgles considerably, it's filling up a nearly empty water tank probably with a burned-out element.
Maybe manufacturers can address this problem of too low water levels in subsequent models.
#1 I would check that you actually have 3 phases connected. #2 I would also check the ground. There could be a loose ground, or depending on the installation, the ground could be defeated by rubber washers in flex lines. Fix this by running a wire from the casing of the water heater to the pipe, bypassing the flex lines.
#3 Replace the thermastat. The thermastat has the reset button on it.
#'s 1 & 2 are very minimal in cost. #3 is still affordable.
It is not unusual for an element to fail when turned on after non-use. Turn off the power, and check the electrical resistance of each element. If either is infinite, then it needs to be replaced. Also, if only one is bad, then it can cause the whole unit to malfunction and not heat the water.
To find out you need to cut away the white cover to see where the leak is coming from. This white cover is just cosmetic.
If the leak is on the connection where the supply line comes in, then is usually can be fixed.
If the leak is on the metal of the tank below the connection, then there is no fixing it. The metal just below the white plastic is part of the tank.
If the leak is on the connection, it can all be replaced. I recommend replacing the nipple going into the water heater with a 3/4" x 3" brass nipple. From there I recommend using a 3/4" x 3/4" x 18"-24" copper water heater flex. This assuming that you have a flex line installed now. If not I still recommend the brass nipple and the copper flex, but you can get a 3/4" Sharkbite Male adapter to adapt to copper pipe. (Use this fitting instead of having to solder. This fitting is found at Home Depot and Lowes. Be sure not to have any burrs on the copper pipe, because Sharkbites use an O'ring which can be damaged by any burrs.)
If you have a different plumbing installation, please contact me.