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According to Hayward Pools, it should run anywhere from 30 Minutes to 1 Hour, depending on the gallon content of the pool you are sanitizing. You should read the manual of your particular model and verify the sand filters pump and CFM capabilities. Manuals can be downloaded at the following link:
un-screw the entire top valve unit. I would duct tape over the top of the riser pipe at the top.You do not want to get any sand inside that pipe. Turn upside downand rinse out completely. Add new sand remove duct tape and replace top valve unit
These valves will get stiff with time and grit and sand will get into the shaft of the valve and make it hard to turn. As far as the noise, the valve is probally an 1 1/2" valve. The volocity of the water through the valve will cause cavation and this noise. When you get to the point where you need a new valve you can fix this by using a 2" valve.
First remove seal plate and mounting plate on motor. The front end bell of the motor is alunimun and is probally corroded, you will need to scrape most of this corrosition off the front of motor and then wire brush this clean. A coat of paint will not hurt at this point or coat or coat in a good pool lubricant to stop corrosion in the future. This calcium will build to the point of warpin seal plate and tweaking impeller shaft and it will quite often crack the seal also. As far as reassembly hand tighten only. If the pump has the motor it came with you have to shut the power off at the breaker and carefully use a 3/8 open end wrench to hold the back of the motir shaft. If the motor has been replaced you will need to check with the manifctuer.
This is your contactor enguaging and one of those things you don't notice when everything is working. At this point your getting power through the unit and will need a pro to probally replace your element.
This could be something as simple as a dirty filter. Heat pumps are notoris for pressure problems as they are very fickel. Make sure your filters are clean, then their should be a by-pass assembly on your inlet, outlet pipes for water this valve needs to be set at just the right spot to keep the water flow high enough to collect heat but not so high as to not warm enough. Setting this flow is easy enough with the unit on restrict the flow till the unit starts and wait to see that it keeps running. use a gentel hand and do this very slowley as the unit takes time to respond. But first make sure your filters are very clean and your baskets also. These are usually the culpret's when it comes to low pressure and low flow. The switch usually just tell's you that is where the problem is. If their is no corrosition or leaking at the pre. sw. more often than not it's ok and just tell's you to start looking for the problem. Good luck.
Low pressure is usually a dirty filter ob basket. If you have a by-pass on the plumbing you can shut this down a little to get more flow through the heater. Or you may have a clog in your pump impeller. Hope this helps.
Well Its a little complicated and unless you understand the heat pump /refrigeration cycle and the need for defrost and how the defrost is limited and initiated, well Id say yep...you need a pro.
About the only thing I can suggest you check is the initiate termination thermostat (assuming your Heat pump works with one of these). It will be identified by 2 wires going to it and it will be clamped on the line (Not brazed on or screwed on). Now there will also be a reversing valve which has 4 tubes going to it and 2 wires. and it could have high, low, pressure switches that have 2 wires. This thermostat is usually mounted 1/3 to 2/3 way down on the coil and is suppose to be mounted on the "U - Bend" of the out door coil tubing. It usually resembles a pancake and will have a wire or metal clip that holds it securely on the coil U bend. Make sure it hasn't fallen off or come loose. This can cause your heat pump to miss its required defrost.
You can try this also. Some defrost timer boards have a set of "test pins" you put them together with a screwdriver or a piece of wire for a few seconds to initiate a defrost. It defeats the time logic in the board It should go on into defrost and stay in until the coil is cleared of frost and or about 10 minutes which ever comes first. If it comes out right away it may be the termination switch I talked about above. It could also be the board. To check out the thermostat locate the 2 wires going to it from the board. pull them off the board and retry it. Sill goes right out of defrost then jumper the 2 wires together and try it again. If it still comes out this time it most likely the board. If it stays in defrost either time when removing the wires or jumping the wires its the thermostat.
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Why is my pump cutting off and on every 5-10 seconds?
Hayward motors are factory wired for 240 volts unless the motor is 120 volts ONLY. Check the voltage of the incoming supply power and ensure the motor is wired or can be wired for this voltage (data plate on motor will help provide voltage and wiring information). Also check for loose or badly connected wires. Contact a certified electrician for repair.