Question about Hayward Heatpro 100,000 Digi. Thermostat Heat Pump

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Corrosion on the fins of my heat pump

I have a hayward heat pro 1102. The fins are turning white and corroding. Is this a common problem?

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  • bmonigle Mar 09, 2009

    Fins are covered with white powder-like substance.


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Do you have something close to it like a hot tub or spa or pool? If so the Chlorine is reacting with the aluminum causing it to corrode.

I suggest moving one or the other if this is the case.

If this helps you please rate me as high as you can If not please post back with an extended detail of your problem. thank you for using fix ya. Good Luck.

Posted on Mar 26, 2009

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How long does the sand filter need to run?

According to Hayward Pools, it should run anywhere from 30 Minutes to 1 Hour, depending on the gallon content of the pool you are sanitizing. You should read the manual of your particular model and verify the sand filters pump and CFM capabilities. Manuals can be downloaded at the following link:

In case of a problem or clarification or my solution was insufficient, don't hesitate to post me a reply.

If you are satisfied, rate my solution with the "thumbs" or (even better) add a testimonial.

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How do I change the sand in my Hayward S220t Top Mount Pro Series Sand Filter

un-screw the entire top valve unit. I would duct tape over the top of the riser pipe at the top.You do not want to get any sand inside that pipe. Turn upside downand rinse out completely. Add new sand remove duct tape and replace top valve unit

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Hayward Vari-Flow valve SP710X making cavitation noise w pump on.

These valves will get stiff with time and grit and sand will get into the shaft of the valve and make it hard to turn. As far as the noise, the valve is probally an 1 1/2" valve. The volocity of the water through the valve will cause cavation and this noise. When you get to the point where you need a new valve you can fix this by using a 2" valve.

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I'm replacing the impeller and seal assembly on a Hayward 3/4 HP Max-Flo pump as the original impeller broke at the shaft. I had to remove the impeller thread assy. inside the seal by splitting it as there...

First remove seal plate and mounting plate on motor. The front end bell of the motor is alunimun and is probally corroded, you will need to scrape most of this corrosition off the front of motor and then wire brush this clean. A coat of paint will not hurt at this point or coat or coat in a good pool lubricant to stop corrosion in the future. This calcium will build to the point of warpin seal plate and tweaking impeller shaft and it will quite often crack the seal also. As far as reassembly hand tighten only. If the pump has the motor it came with you have to shut the power off at the breaker and carefully use a 3/8 open end wrench to hold the back of the motir shaft. If the motor has been replaced you will need to check with the manifctuer.

Aug 13, 2009 | Hayward 3/4 HP Max-Flo High Performance...

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I have a HP 1002. Makes a

This is your contactor enguaging and one of those things you don't notice when everything is working. At this point your getting power through the unit and will need a pro to probally replace your element.

Aug 05, 2009 | Water Warehouse Hayward HeatPro In-ground...

1 Answer

LP (low pressure fault) is on screen.

This could be something as simple as a dirty filter. Heat pumps are notoris for pressure problems as they are very fickel. Make sure your filters are clean, then their should be a by-pass assembly on your inlet, outlet pipes for water this valve needs to be set at just the right spot to keep the water flow high enough to collect heat but not so high as to not warm enough. Setting this flow is easy enough with the unit on restrict the flow till the unit starts and wait to see that it keeps running. use a gentel hand and do this very slowley as the unit takes time to respond. But first make sure your filters are very clean and your baskets also. These are usually the culpret's when it comes to low pressure and low flow. The switch usually just tell's you that is where the problem is. If their is no corrosition or leaking at the pre. sw. more often than not it's ok and just tell's you to start looking for the problem. Good luck.

May 30, 2009 | Water Warehouse Hayward HeatPro In-ground...

1 Answer

Motor humming but not engaging

The pump needs to be primed by adding water to the basket.If it still doesnt start it might need the a rebuild which usually involves replacing the bearings(cost about $150.00 NJ area).

Apr 22, 2009 | Hayward S220t Top Mount Pro Series Sand...

1 Answer

LP (low pressure fault) is on screen.

Low pressure is usually a dirty filter ob basket. If you have a by-pass on the plumbing you can shut this down a little to get more flow through the heater. Or you may have a clog in your pump impeller. Hope this helps.

Mar 12, 2009 | Water Warehouse Hayward HeatPro In-ground...

1 Answer

Frost all around outside unit coils

Well Its a little complicated and unless you understand the heat pump /refrigeration cycle and the need for defrost and how the defrost is limited and initiated, well Id say need a pro.

About the only thing I can suggest you check is the initiate termination thermostat (assuming your Heat pump works with one of these). It will be identified by 2 wires going to it and it will be clamped on the line (Not brazed on or screwed on). Now there will also be a reversing valve which has 4 tubes going to it and 2 wires. and it could have high, low, pressure switches that have 2 wires. This thermostat is usually mounted 1/3 to 2/3 way down on the coil and is suppose to be mounted on the "U - Bend" of the out door coil tubing. It usually resembles a pancake and will have a wire or metal clip that holds it securely on the coil U bend. Make sure it hasn't fallen off or come loose. This can cause your heat pump to miss its required defrost.

You can try this also. Some defrost timer boards have a set of "test pins" you put them together with a screwdriver or a piece of wire for a few seconds to initiate a defrost. It defeats the time logic in the board It should go on into defrost and stay in until the coil is cleared of frost and or about 10 minutes which ever comes first. If it comes out right away it may be the termination switch I talked about above. It could also be the board. To check out the thermostat locate the 2 wires going to it from the board. pull them off the board and retry it. Sill goes right out of defrost then jumper the 2 wires together and try it again. If it still comes out this time it most likely the board. If it stays in defrost either time when removing the wires or jumping the wires its the thermostat.

Hope this helps you. If so please rate me as high as you can. Thank you for using fixya and good luck.
Hope this helps you

Feb 21, 2009 | Hayward Heatpro 100,000 Digi. Thermostat...

1 Answer

Hayward Heat Pro Electric won't stay running

from the Hayward support site....

Why is my pump cutting off and on every 5-10 seconds?
  • Hayward motors are factory wired for 240 volts unless the motor is 120 volts ONLY. Check the voltage of the incoming supply power and ensure the motor is wired or can be wired for this voltage (data plate on motor will help provide voltage and wiring information). Also check for loose or badly connected wires. Contact a certified electrician for repair.

Sep 24, 2008 | Hayward Heatpro 100,000 Digi. Thermostat...

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