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Re: i need a power transformer for roland sde -3000
If your transformer is fried then you will have to replace it of
course, but if it has only opened the thermal fuse that is tucked into
the primary windings then you can replace that and not have to replace
the entire transformer. Be sure to use the same temperature and
type thermal fuse as the original. You will find the thermal fuse
tucked in where the ac power in wires go into the transformer and you
may have to clear some plastic out of the way in order to get to
it. Be very very carfull that you do not nick or cut or break any
of the magnet wire that makes up the windings of the transformer.
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The Vital 1250 is a class D amplifier designed to deliver 170watts per channel (x12) at 4 ohms impedence.
There is however a number of these which are starting to come through with amplifier modules that fail.
There are 6 stereo class D modules using the TDA8970 design.
In breif the issues are down to the transformer secondary windings delivering slightly over spec voltage to the modules. Over time with the audio sense active this initial pulse from the transformer at power up sees off the amplifier chip and in many cases damages the PCB links between the double sided print making it impossible to remedy the exsisting module, so replacement is the only option.
The transformer on this unit is unique to this model and give 6 pairs of outputs for the 6 modules supplying 2x 29V AC which when converted to DC is around 41Vdc to each module, this can surge up on power on for a split second.
The TDA8970 is designed to take an absolute maximum of 39V and there is little or no protection on the output stage to stop a DC output occuring on the speaker outputs.
My therory is that this will be only the case for UK owners on a 240v mains supply as the tollerance may be acceptable for USA 110V users.
I have repaired these units by replacing all 6 modules with better units that have additional output protection between the TDA8970 and the speaker outputs. also adding resistors to the supply rails to help bring them in line with the correct tolerance and give longer life.
I am an engineer at MusicView Services and we speacialise in high end audio products and profesional music sound equipment.
I hope this helps someone with this amp, these problem will be specific to this model and should not be considered to relate to anything other than the Vital 1250.
No, you can't just jump the pins together. The power supply in the mixer needs two separate 18-volt AC inputs because it makes two supply voltages, +15 and -15 volts.
The external supply is just a potted 36-volt transformer with a center-tapped secondary. I bought an open-box Behringer (not your model, but similar) that was missing its supply, and found this transformer which works fine. (I actually did find a couple of sources for a replacement Behringer supply, but it cost more than I paid for the mixer!) Just connect the three output leads to the appropriate places on the mixer's PC board. In mine, I removed the original input connector and soldered a pigtail with a 3-pin connector from Radio Shack to the PC lands, then attached the matching plug to the transformer leads. You'll also need to provide an enclosure of some kind to prevent contact with the line voltage input to the transformer and to protect the thing if you carry it around.
Once you remove the screw from the battery compartment you will need to find a long flat iten to pry the remote open, such as a knife, metal ruler or the like. There is no way to do this without marking the sde of the remote. Simply place the pry between the two halves of the remote and gently pry. You will hear a snapping sound as their are 4 internal catches on either side. Tease it apart in more than one place along the edge. and it will eventually pop apart.
If you have the slow button problem a small circle of tin foil/aluminium paper glued to the back of the rubber pad will have your remote working good as new.
You need to locate a power converter. This is basically a trqansformer that will convert the 240V system into a 110V system. These are generally available anywhere where travel supplies are sold. You can also contact Pioneer and see if they have a conversion kit which would require the replacement or alteration of the internal transformer on the unit.
With out make and model, I can not supply parts information. Please update this with that info. Also, depending upon the age of the unit, parts may not be available. Are you sure that the problem is the transformer? This part is rare to fail.
You will need AC to AC converter that will accomodate US to UK mains. Look for power requirements of your amp on name plate and match with available converters online. Make sure power line frequencies match in/out requiremnts