Yesterday I received the new switch assembly with a complete wiring harness from Nelson Appliance. The 3oz metal weight is attached with a much stronger piece of plastic - see picture.
For the installation I only had to slip the automotive connectors back on the heating elements. Now I am back in business with a working heater. Unfortunately I am out of almost $40 for the whole replacement. I wish they had installed the stronger plastic piece that holds the metal weight in the first place.
Lakewood 5500 Heater - Here is a picture of the rear side of the open heater thermostat with the two switches for 600 and 990W at the left. The 3oz metal piece is the weight that broke off from the thermostat assembly. It fell down and made a short between the case and the power switch. There is a visible burn mark where the short occurred.
I am convinced that if the heater ever falls over, the metal weight will break off and fall down and probably create a short against the case. It may disconnect the 120V power at the thermostat or cause a high enough current to kick out your breaker in the house.
The attachment of the 3oz metal weight to the back of the thermostat is not strong enough to survive when the heater falls over; it wil break off.
I just opened up the control panel on my Lakewood 550 Heater. The switch has a rather heavy weight attached to it with a measley piece of plastic. On mine, the weight broke off at the plastic, and it ended up falling down and making a short between the case and the heater wire connection. There were some burn marks on the metal weight and the case of the switch assembly.
When I checked at the Lakewood Heater web site, they mention two different companies that sell spare parts; Lakewood does not sell any. So I am going for a switch replacement, since I do not want to mickey-mouse glue the weight back together. The only problem is the price for the replacement switch; it costs about half of what a new heater costs. Spare Parts at Nelson Appliance see - http://www.nelsonappliance.com
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Have you checked the circuit breaker or fuse for the circuit that your heater is on? It's possible that you had something else come on that, combined with the current draw of your heater, popped the breaker. If that turns out to be the case, turn the heater switch from high to medium or from medium to low so that you're drawing less current.
if a circuit breaker pops i assume its an RCELD or is it a MCB type
it is some leakage to earth somewhere in the electrics
if it runs and pops the breaker
and you can plug it in and it will sit there
then i assume its something do do with the fan system
or ignitor . driver system
look for sources of leakage to earth
and you could measure the peek current it uses with a multimeter inline
set to AC amps
anyway its defo not a gonner just some bad electrics
I had this problem with a different brand. What was happening was that the wiring to the room where I used it could only support 2000 watts. The heater had an internal circuit breaker. When I turned on my exercise bicycle in that room I was trying to get 2200 watts. I always turned on the bicycle first and that took 700 watts plus the overhead light and so on. Thus when I turned on the heater, as it used up more and more wattage its internal circuit breaker shut off before the circuit breaker in the breaker box. That may not be your problem. This house is forty years old and this "study", the purpose that it was used for by the previous owners must have never reached 2000 watts total. Unfortunately I did. So now I wear a sweatshirt down there at first and take it off when I'm starting to sweat from the exertion of riding the bike. The heater never gets turned on.
Turn the Master On/Off Switch to OFF and unplug the unit from the wall receptacle. Leave it unplugged for 12 - 15 minutes. That should give it enough time to reset itself. Then plug it back in and give it a try. Also, make sure that the wall receptacle is working properly and hasn't tripped the circuit breaker in your home's circuit breaker panel. If it did, something is seriously wrong electrically, with the heater.
Hope this helps you solve the problem. Please don't forget to rate my response to your question. Thanks!
Do you have a electronic thermostat or a circuit board on your electric heater? When you are flipping the breaker you are resetting the control just like you do when you reboot your computer. Something is causing it to lock out.....
As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician or HVAC tech to advise what work is needed. Before you do any work yourself, on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances, always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
On the thermostat see if it has a setting for fan on auto and off try turning the fan on then see if it comes on, if it does then it may be your thermostat has failed if it does not turn on then reset the circuit breakers to see if you have a breaker kicked off. If it was wired properly there should be one near the unit and one in the main breaker panel so be sure to reset both. To do this you must force the breaker switches all the way off then all the way on. On some breakers if you do not force it to the off position it will not reset the breaker. If this does not help let me know and I will try to help you some more just replay to the e-mail you get go to the bottom of the page and post add comment
When your heater shuts off it trips your main breaker and that is usually associated with the interupt capacity of the breaker ( which means that while your heater is drawing current, if the thermostat says stop.. you are interupting that current demand abruptly and your getting a surge back to your breaker, You may be able to add a surge arrestor to that power feed to suppress that problem. You may also be able to repsecify your main breaker with one that has a higher interupt capacity.. Check with a local electrical supply house..explain the problem and they should be able to provide a hardware solution. Make sure you provide details on your circuit breaker brand so they can provide the proper solution.. GoodLuck
You are sure you have power at the plug? If so it sounds like the internal circuit breaker tripped or the switch is bad. Either way, throw the heater away, they are not designed to be field repaired, sorry.
First thing make sure:
· Ensure that your circuit breaker or fuse is working properly.
· Be sure the heater is plugged in and that the electrical outlet is working properly.
· Check for any obstruction. If you find any obstruction, turn the heater ?OFF?. Unplug the heater and wait a few minutes for it to cool down. Carefully remove the obstruction. Plug the heater in and turn it on again by referring to the OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS.
If you're NOT still under warranty you should at least open the heater and look for anything strange like a blown fuse. A lot of times you can buy replacement at a local electronic or hardware store and they're easy to replace.