Question about Oster 76076-010 Hair Trimmer

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CHI Flat Iron GF-1001

Thanks a lot for your respond.
Your answer was helpful. But do you know the dimensions for that thermal resistor you were talking about.I think I just need that TNR resistor to be replaced.I hope it will fix my problem.So I need detailed information for that
P.S.About plugging the 110V plug into 220V outlet -- women can do so really easy with no problem believe me......(-_-)

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I have bought thermal fuses from DigiKey. They have various temperature ratings. If you have a multimeter or ohmmeter you can check to see if the fuse still has continuity. If the iron sometimes works, it's not the fuse. Cords are the most common problem, but if it was plugged into a 220V I'm not sure what might have gotten fried. There is a small IC in there too, for temp control or something: if it's fried you are SOL. Save it for parts though...


Posted on Jul 30, 2009

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Start by popping off the two plastic covers on the hinge area. Sometimes they break: they're not really necessary anyway. Use the two screwdrivers on the screws on each side of the hinge: one will eventually come loose. Take the screw out, then use a screwdriver to push out the hinge pin. Keep track of any washers that might fall out. Carefully remove the big spring, and lay the two halves of the iron out flat. On the control side, there are several screws that hold the covers on: remove those carefully. If the cord is the kind with the swivel thing, you'll have to take out all of those parts. There will be two wires going from the cord into the circuit board: sometimes they are attached with tiny screws, sometimes they are soldered. You have to solder a new cord onto those wires.

You can buy replacement cords at most hardware stores, or steal a power cord off another (broken) appliance. Two-wire cord is preferred: flat irons don't use a ground wire.

Cut the power wires in the flat iron: they are usually blue and brown. Brown goes to the black wire on your replacement cord, blue goes to white. Strip the wires carefully, slip the heatshrink on, solder, then slip the heatshrink over the repair and heat it to seal it up.

Now the hard part is trying to secure the new cord, since it doesn't fit the way the old one did. I usually put a big zip-tie on the cord, which is then captured when you put the covers back on.

Once the cord is repaired, you can re-install the covers. Don't tighten the screws too much, they are really easy to strip out. Carefully insert the legs of the spring into each half of the iron, then hold them together while you slip the hinge pin back in: it's a little tricky. Then use the two screwdrivers again, this time to tighten the screws. If the plastic covers aren't broken you can snap them back in if you want.

See? I told you it's not that simple. But since a new iron is, what, $100, it's worth a try.

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