I need part breakdown or manual to get at the thermostats , the heating element without tearing it all apart, Fridgaire has nothing online , though I may have found the wiring diagramon a UK frudgidaure site my Model FDEC647RFS1 think it is also FDE647RF c is for Canada S1 is for Language on the dials 1=English 2=French If ound I can open the top and see the top Thermostat but ther are supposed to be more. Where are they?
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Re: frigidaire dryer overheating
The other tstat is on front of blower housing..lift top remove screws at top of front panel from inside remove switch wires front lifts off ..be sure to ck vent first most dryers have thermal fuses that will blow if overheating does occur since yours seems to be working i would suspect vent first..if your concerned about dryer being hot to touch along top rear this is normal heating element is located just below console at rear
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Based off the information you have provided your Frigidaire dryer is not heating. This could be a potential issue with your heating element, timer, or thermostat. In order to accurately check each part you would need to disassemble your dryer and test each piece for the proper continuity. This is not a simple DIY job and I would highly suggest contacting a professional technician comes out for proper diagnosis and repair. Best of luck! -Matt
A defective heating element can make a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.
Other Causes and Conditions
Air Flow Problem
Dryers need good ventilation to work properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean all of the vent tubing thoroughly.
Although not common, a defective cycling thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced.
Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too hot. This is not common.
A defective blower wheel will not spin properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer.
Replace the thermostat. A very inexpensive thermocouple that is not sensing the heat anymore and caused the element to overheat. In the UK the part will cost less than five pounds!
If the element had touched the ground, your safety earth leakage breaker in the fuse box would have tripped.
Someone will need to tear it all apart and check the "overheat thermostat switches" with a ohm-meter or electrical tester. One has likely stopped your heat. .There are from 3 to 6 of them in the back and bottom of your machine. Also, the heating element may have broken, (it is "used up"). The heating element is the most common problem. Be blessed
The fact that the element gets red hot, shows that there is nothing wrong with the element, it will get red, more so if you tried it without a cover or panel over it, as normally the fan blows the air over the element, make sure the drive belt is o/k, and the drum is turning.
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A tumble dryer that isn't heating up at all needs checking with a continuity test meter. The most common cause is a heating element failure, or t.o.c's going open circuit. Some tumble dryers have heating elements that are easily accessible by removing the back panel, and can be tested for continuity or checked for obvious breakage. Others though have their heating elements inside, which aren't accessible without stripping the dryer down. Tumble dryer heating elements are always protected by thermal fuses which are usually simple devices with 2 wires connected. They can be tested for continuity with a test meter. In your case it is better that y ou call in an engineer to test it.Also overloading and blocked filters can cause the thermostat to cut out and they can also go with simple wear and tear. Check your service manual for spare parts etc
Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating? A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating: - house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug. A ohm meter test for these parts is here. Q - My gas dryer will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating? A - Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating: - glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor. A page for checking gas dryers is here. Meter testing and usage tips. 1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter. 2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work. 3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode. 4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element. 5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches. 6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter. 7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuityacross a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ). But darn it, I don't have a Ohm Meter.... To check the thermal fuse - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.To check the thermal cut-out - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only. To check the thermostats for continuity - - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only. To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.