Question about Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use
and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater
comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost
drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the
freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.
Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer
Posted on Oct 14, 2009
I am going to assume you are in the UK. the voltage is higher than most household refrigerators here in the USA. Disconnect power to refrigerator and check continuity on two of the three terminals of the compressor at a time until you measure the resistance in the windings all the way around. The terminals should be marked R, S and C. (Run, Start and Common) you should get a reading with your multimeter all the way around. When you have done this and have the readings I want you to touch one end of your multimeter to the metal pipes or any clean metal outside the compressor and the other to one of the three terminals one at a time like you tested before. With your multimeter set up the same, see if you get a reading from metal housing to the three pins, or terminals c, r and s. You should get no reading. If you do, the compressor is a burn out and on the first test if you don't get a reading on the two at a time test between two post that is considered to be open or broken windings. The compressor does have an internal overload that may be open also. But if cool at time of test, and it shows up the compressor in bad. Let me know what you find...Thanks, Sea Breeze
Posted on Apr 24, 2009
first remove the door from the fridge, remove the hardware connected to the fridge, on the opposite side should be rubber or plastic caps covering some bolt holes. remove caps and install top of hinge transfer everything you see on the left to the right
Posted on Oct 24, 2009
Hello, Thank You for using FixYa. I will be helping you today.The only thing that has oil is the sealed system. So if there is oil leaking you would have a leak and the unit will stop cooling.Are you sure something didnt just spill and is leaking out?
Thank You and please rate my answer if it was helpful..
Posted on Jun 10, 2011
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