TV doesn't turn on. No stand by light. Nothing

please follow the steps and fix it. God bless you
her won't start, the user control and display board may be defective. Check for power to the washer first.

Timer

If the washer won't start the timer might be defective. This part is often misdiagnosed, check other components before replacing this timer.

Line Fuse

If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown.

Thermal Fuse

If the washer won't start the thermal fuse may have blown. It can be tested for continuity. Watch our fuse testing video for more information.

Line Fuse and Holder

If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown, or the line fuse holder might be damaged and need to be replaced.

Main Control Board

If the washer won't start the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check other parts and causes first.

Door or Lid Latch Assembly

If the washer won't start the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly

If the washer won't start the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Incoming Power Problem

If the washer won't start check to see if there is power at the electrical outlet which the washer is plugged into. Plug a lamp or radio into the outlet to check it. If the outlet is dead, check the circuit breakers or fuses for the home.

Power Cord

If the washer won't start, check to be sure there is power to the electrical outlet for the home. If that is OK, the power cord itself might be defective. This is rare. You can check the power cord with an Ohm meter for continuity.

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
User Control and Display Board If the washer won't start, the user control and display board may be defective. Check for power to the washer first.

Timer If the washer won't start the timer might be defective. This part is often misdiagnosed, check other components before replacing this timer.

Line Fuse If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown.
Thermal Fuse If the washer won't start the thermal fuse may have blown. It can be tested for continuity. Watch our fuse testing video for more information.

Line Fuse and Holder If the washer won't start the line fuse might have blown, or the line fuse holder might be damaged and need to be replaced.

Main Control Board If the washer won't start the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check other parts and causes first.

Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't start the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.
Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't start the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Incoming Power Problem If the washer won't start check to see if there is power at the electrical outlet which the washer is plugged into. Plug a lamp or radio into the outlet to check it. If the outlet is dead, check the circuit breakers or fuses for the home.

Power Cord If the washer won't start, check to be sure there is power to the electrical outlet for the home. If that is OK, the power cord itself might be defective. This is rare. You can check the power cord with an Ohm meter for continuity.

There are several things that can prevent a dryer from not heating. UNPLUG DRYER BEFORE TESTING ANYTHING.
1- power- Test the receptical to make sure you are getting 220 volts. To do this you need and voltage tester. Both legs should pull 110 and together 220. If one leg is not pulling any power than your breaker is half tripped. Reset breaker to cure your problem. If problem persist it is in the breaker or receptical.
2- cord- To test this unplug dryer. Take the panel covering the cord connections off. Remove cord entirely from dryer. Test each leg for continuity. If any are not showing cont than replace cord.
3- Themal fuse- To test this remove access back access panel on some front panel. By the blower housing there is a fuse white thin sliver or round fuse with 2 wires going to it. The one with 4 wires is your low limit cycling thermistat. The thermal fuse is near that. Disconnect the 2 wires and check fuse for continuity. If meter shows cont fuse it good. If not replace fuse.
4- Hi Limit Thermistat- test same way as thermal fuse. On the heating element housing at the bottom are 3 wires running to a fuse. Test the left and right. The bottom is attached to one of the sides.
5- Thermal Cutoff- Test same way as thermal fuse. This fuse is near the top of the heating elemnt above the Hi Limit. 2 wires with usually plastic covers on them.
6- Heating Element- Below high limit 2 wires. Test for continuity.
If all these fuses are good than you may need to call a technician. The motor may not be getting to the right rpm to activate the senfrigrial switch in the moter. Timer or control board may be out.
7- Motor- If

Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. As you have already checked everything else then the issue seems to be with the Thermal fuse going bad needs to be replaced. It is mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. Also, often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter, no continuity means it is bad and you need to replace it. If you have also checked this fuse already then the issue is with the control going bad and should be replaced. Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

with the unit unplugged, and using an ohm meter check for continuity all the way to the heating elements. the cover comes off by removing 4 screws, 2 on each side. you are looking for bad connection/broken wiring. also check elements for resistance.

Should have 240 volts at element.  If it has continuity, you will read the same voltage on either side.  Check across the element for 240.  If you only have 120 check for 240 across the two outside terminals where the cord hooks up.  More than likely either a half tripped breaker or defective breaker.  

I had the same problem. I checked the fuse (good) and the electric latch. They both turned out good. I checked continuity on the wiring. This also showed good,......... initially!
I eventually found that I had continuity in the wiring when the trunk lid was in a certain position but not when it was closed.
I eventually found that there was a broken wire in the area where trunk hinges. Spliced in a 6 ft. section of wire to cover both side of the hinge area. Problem was solved.
Hope this helps...... or at least gives you food for thought.

Check electrical power to seat switch with 12V test light, and also out of swithch upon pushing buttons, If good continue electrical to seat motor

Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.

Check the following to address this issue.


1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.