Question about Kenmore 91112 / 91114 / 91117 Electric Kitchen Range
I have the above range/stove. Two of the burners on the stove work intermittently. Sometimes they do, sometimes not. The connection at the base of one actually sparked a little while trying to get it to work the other day. I have tried removing the burners and reseating the buriner in the receptical, but this only works for a little while if at all. what would cause this type of problem and how can I permanently/cocsistantly get these burners working.
SOURCE: Kenmore gas range
Clogged burners are a very common problem with gas ranges because foods spilled on the burners block the gas ports and prevent ignition. On some gas ranges you can remove the top ring of the burner to expose the ports. Here's how to clean a burner:
Step 1: Turn off the power supply, both gas and electric, to the range. Then remove the burner.
Step 2: Soak the burner in a solution of mild household detergent and water. Clean it with a soft cloth.
Step 3: Clear the gas ports with a pin or needle, rinse the burner, and let it dry. Caution: Do not use a toothpick or matchstick to clean the gas ports. If the tip of the wood gets stuck in the burner ports, it could cause a serious blockage.
Step 4: When the burner is completely dry, replace it, and turn on the power and the gas supply.
Posted on Nov 06, 2008
check the burner socket, it is likely that contact is being lost where the burner connects to the hardwired portion of the system (the socket). It is not unusual for the socket to "burn up" when there is a poor connection to the burner resulting in the burner being replaced and the new burner not working or working intermittently.
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Posted on Jan 29, 2009
Yes, you can repair the appliance yourself and save on the cost of labor and services charges. Unfortunately, when these triple burners go bad in the manner you describe, there is no way to repair only the portion that is burned out. The burner is one complete piece and needs to be replaced as an entire assembly. The following link explains how:
Replacements parts can be purchased from any of the following websites:
Prices vary between sites, so shop and compare. the first three sites listed also have helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying the parts you may need. I suspect your model number is actually 790.96593601 or 790.96593602. These are the only two numbers that cross to the model number you provided. If I'm not correct, please post back with your COMPLETE model number.
The part number for the triple burner is 316216702. Keep in mind, this part, alone is not cheap. The cheapest price I found was about $120 at appliancepartspros.com. However, you would spend much more if you included the added price of a service call and labor charges. Use the part number provided to search any other web sources you like to see if you can find the burner listed elsewhere for a better price. Use the part number as some websites may not list your particlar model, but will carry most parts.
If you have any questions please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Apr 30, 2010
SOURCE: Stove beeping and error F11
Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.
In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.
Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:
The F1 code indicates that:
a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.
b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.
Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.
1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.
2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.
3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.
4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.
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Posted on Oct 01, 2010
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