Question about GE JKS06BFBB Electric Single Oven

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Where to connect third (yellow) wire to lower heating element

GE Range JBP90A V2AA - Replacing shorted out lower unit. No problem hook up the two black wires. I didn't notice the yellow wire until I started hooking up the new element. It terminates at the Clear - off" button on the control panel. I have some ideas, but I won't speculate. Thanks.

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  • danblacknsc Nov 30, 2008

    On November 18 I reported to you that my problem was solved by a local appliance repairman and requested that you credit my account the $19.95 charge. I haven't received that credit.

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A local appliance repairman solved the problem in ten minutes. Charged me $30.00. The two black wires fasten to one terminal, the yellow wire fastens to the other.
I notice you have billed me for your service. Your ads advice if the problem cannot be solved by your technicians, there is no charge. Please credit my account.

Posted on Nov 18, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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How to change the electric oven GE 168947 elements


Basically you unplug the oven and remove the back, you should see two wires connected to the elements where they come through the oven wall in the back. Unhook those wires. The elements are held in place with nuts on the portions that poke through, remove the nuts and pull the element out through the front, and install the new one. Note that if you break one of the connections on the wires to the heating element, they can be a real chore to repair because they are high heat connections.

Feb 18, 2017 | GE Ovens

1 Answer

On my Ge electric oven, sometimes it starts but after 3-4 seconds it shuts down and the true temp light flashes, but most of the time when I push the bake button the true temp light just flashes.


Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.

Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element
The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.
The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!


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Jun 04, 2015 | GE Ovens

1 Answer

Electrical short circuit


Likely an internal fuse

Oct 05, 2017 | GE Ovens

2 Answers

GE Double Oven Controller WB27T10276 Connection Details


I successfully replaced my WB27T10063 with the WB27T10276 (ERC3-GE-M) by following the instructions (Pub. No. 31-10515).

"they tell you for the Broil Relay to connect L1A to the common terminal."

This is simply a misreading of the poorly written instructions.
  1. Bake: yellow goes to yellow NO.
  2. Broil: violet goes to violet NO.
  3. Broil: black L1B goes to violet COM.
  4. AUX 2 goes to AUX2 (black and white wire).
  5. AUX1 goes to AUX1 (daisy-chained black from violet COM/L1B).
  6. OV2 goes to OV2 (white wire).
  7. OV1 goes to OV1 (brown wire).
  8. L1A goes to L1A (daisy-chained black from AUX1).
  9. N goes to N (daisy-chained white from OV2).
  10. GND needs to be "tucked under the (steel) clock bracket" on the control panel.
The hardest part was disconnecting the wires from the old ERC. Took a LOT of force! I also had a hard time figuring out how to release the green tape thing apparently labeled "J1" on the old ERC. Piece of cake after that.

Aug 09, 2012 | GE JKP27 Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

GE JTP20 oven. Do I need to replace light fixture after spark from a short?


First, no First, no First unplug the range after you gently scoot away from wall. Then check youy main circut breaker for house to see if you tripped fuse. Then with stove still unplugged remove back access panel, look to area where light goes into oven. Check again and make sure oven is unplugged, then repair the wire by splicing wire with new wire line splice purchased at your nearest local auto parts store, sales person can show how to install. THEN plug in to see if you can see the light!
Joe Don

May 25, 2012 | GE JTP20 Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

Ov en will not heat up. no broiler heat or bake heat model number 790.96614407


Hi,

Your symptoms point to a failure in the electronic oven control board (that acts as the thermostat for the oven in this type of range). Unplug the range and remove the upper back panel to access this component. You will likely see to burn marks on the control board. The control board will need to be replaced in this situation.

Before installing the control board, I recommend that you check the bake and broil elements. Look for damage on both elements. Remove the lower back panel (with the range still unplugged ) and check the wiring connections on both elements. A damaged or shorted bake or broil element could have caused the problem with the control board.



Hope this helps.

Shane

Mar 01, 2011 | Kenmore Ovens

1 Answer

Tryin to replace heating element. I have 3 wires. 2 black and one yellow. How do I hook them up?


The yellow wire should be the earth wire. Earth is generally yellow/green or just green. This goes onto the frame of the element. The other wires go onto the main 2 pins of the element. There is no polarity so it doesn't matter which order you put them in.

Feb 10, 2011 | GE Ovens

2 Answers

Kenmore Elite Gas range, model # 790.79363401 The range works but the oven does not seem to heat up. It appears to ignite, just not get hot.


Hello,

the problem should be from the heating element of your Kenmore Elite Gas range. The heating element is either defective or may have loosed contact as a result of heat coming out of the Oven. The heat coming from the oven may have melted the wire connected to the heating element which might not make it heat up.

Disassemble the oven and check if its actually the wire connected to heating element that got melted, or its time to replace the heating element.

Good luck.

Dec 15, 2010 | Kenmore Ovens

1 Answer

It has a white wire,red wire,and bare wire but I on have 2 black wires and one bare wire for ground that comes out the wall.I don't know what hooks up with what


Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

What is the model number so I can look up the installation procedures for THIS oven?

Usually for a 3 wire connection it will be connected as follows:
1 WALL black to the left terminal block terminal
The bare copper wire to the center terminal of the terminal block
2nd WALL black to the right terminal of the terminal block

See this picture link:
http://www.ask-the-electrician.com/images/RANGE%203-WIRE_CORD_CONNECTION_250.JPG

If you notice in the picture it shows a black red and white connection.

Red = black for your connetion 115VAC
White = bare wire neutral Ground
Black = 2nd black for your connection 115 VAC

When the power is connected properly and using the house wires as a reference if you are
reading it with a meter you would read EITHER black wire to the bare wire = 115 - 120VAC
Reading Black to Black = 230 - 240 VAC

If you still have questions feel free to respond here and I will gladly help you.
Thanks for choosing FixYa.
Kelly

Dec 02, 2010 | Ovens

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