Question about Heath Zenith SL-6136-WH Basic Solutions Wireless Switch and Plug-in

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Heath Zenith Security Light fixture with motion stopped working.

My light fixture stopped working The red light on the motion detector is blinking but the lights do not go on, even using the manual over ride.

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  • Anonymous Nov 15, 2008

    I have the same problem with my Heath Zenith SL-5312. The fixture works in the "test" mode, so I know it's not a blown bulb problem.

  • hartsathome Nov 24, 2008

    The motion lights do not come on, but the red light is blinking. We tried the test mode and the lights come on?

  • Cheryl Dec 03, 2008

    I have the same problem! These lights came with the house I recently moved into, and they used to work fine. For the past month or so, though, I am experiencing the exact same symptoms: lights work in test mode, but I can't get them to come on when I step out onto the porch in the dark. For the record, I don't have the wireless model, but the hardwired model. I'm searching for a user manual or a manufacturer's website for more info.

  • Cheryl Dec 04, 2008

    The light bulbs are fine. They come on in test mode. In fact, last night, the motion sensor did appear to work a couple of times -- lights came on as expected. But then they stopped again. I'm wondering if cold weather or humidity might affect the performance?

    Does anybody know how to contact the manufacturer or obtain a user manual?


  • Anonymous Dec 11, 2008

    I also have the same issue. Red light blinks and lights come on in test mode but the motion sensor won't turn the lights on. This just started within the last day or so. I live in Columbus, OH so it could be cold? Just trying to figure out if I need to replace the whole fixture. Any thoughts?

  • lguggenheim Dec 13, 2008

    Same issue here with a different model number by the same manufacturer. Our light was installed back in the summer, and this issue has happened on an intermittent basis twice since including last night. The red light senses movement, but the lights do not come on. Has anyone been able to contact the company's technical support?

  • LDPinGa Dec 28, 2008

    I have the same problem although I do not have a wireless model. I have a Heath/Zenith 2-level lighting Model SL- 5318. Thought it was strange for 2 bulbs to burn out at the same time but I changed them out anyway and found out that lights will burn in test mode. After a 30 min job of getting out ladder and climbing up 20ft it is frustrating. When the sun went down it never went into (low light) dusk mode. Lights never came on when I walked under even though I see red light on sensor flashing.

    Anyone with this problem found a solution yet?


  • LDPinGa Dec 28, 2008

    I have the same problem although I have a different model. Mine is not wireless control. It did not make sense that both bulbs would burn out at the same time. I changed bulbs anyway without success. Bulbs will burn however in "test mode". Lights failed to "wake-up" at sun down by burning in low power mode. Red blinking light does activate when I walk under sensor.


  • superdaveand Dec 29, 2008

    I have this same issue with an Ace Hardware brand. Red light blinks when it setects motion, but the lights only come on in Test mode.

  • Anonymous Dec 30, 2008

    Ok. On Saturday I installed new bulbs. Was not working on Saturday or Sunday night or this morning. Monday night when I returned home the light was functioning properly. The dim light was on, as our car approached, the full light came on. ?????? Is it going to continue to work????


  • Anonymous Jan 16, 2009

    Same problem here as everyone else. I do have the manual and it doesn't say squat about this dilemma. Figures. There is a web site but it doesn't even have the Heath/Zenith manufacturer listed nor does anything come-up with the search function. They also have customer service phone number that I will try on Monday -- it is 1-800-858-8501. Good luck folks. BTW it has a 10 year warranty so take it back to HD or wherever you got it and ***** till they replace it!

  • jimstewart65 Jan 20, 2009

    I talked with Heath Zenith technical assist. My conclusion is that the Heath Zenith Dual Brite has major problems. It seems that the Heath Zenith lights are built offshore of less than quality components, ie photo and motion sensors, switches etc. Heath does not repair any lights. They must be replaced by the dealer. I bought four lights at Lowes. Heath Zenith discontinued the model I have and Lowes cannot find any for replacement. The warranty is basically worthless. You can get a refund and end up with four lights that do not match. I suspect that all of their products follow the same pattern. An importer that resells to dealers. Lowes' and Home Depot should stop carrying this junk.

  • Anonymous Feb 09, 2009

    I think their literature is very clear that you have to use the bulb that it comes with!

  • Anonymous Feb 28, 2009

    motion not detected but red light blinks

  • Anonymous Apr 22, 2009

    produnt and warranty are worth less

  • Frank
    Frank May 11, 2010

    check th elight bulb

  • David Wong Jan 03, 2012

    I've had many problems with their products also. I recentley installed 2 for my son and they stay on all the time. Out of the box they're defective. Made in CHINA!! No QC at all!! By the way I'm of Chinese decent.



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I have this problem every now and then. I just fixed mine - knock on wood. I smacked it lightly, cleaned the lens and the eye. Then I turned on the switch for a minute, switched to TEST, waited for a minute, then I switched to 1 min. (you should hear an internal "click") and switched the light switch off and on again. Waited for 1 minute and it shut off.

Hope this helps. Buy "Made in USA" whenever possible to prevent problems like this.

Posted on Feb 24, 2010

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I am in the middle of a discussion with Heath/Zenith over a closely related and perhaps identical issue. I purchased their 5718 model from Home Depot and based on the fact that their brochure stated that "CFL bulbs are only usable on 270 degree units." I purchased the model 5718 unit (270 degree) and used CFL bulbs. It experienced the same problem others noted.

The technician at Heath/Zenith told me that only DIMMABLE CFL bulbs would work with this unit (even if the DualBrite feature is turned off). Standard CFL bulbs will not work.

Their brochure does not make that clear. Perhaps that is the answer to others' problems.

Posted on Dec 30, 2008

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Rain storm knocked out electric for a few min. lights came back on so did motion sensor. It has never shut off . I tried turning off light switch for a few min and turned back on. Still stays on all the time???

Posted on Apr 24, 2010

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1 Answer

How to reset/fix an indoor motion detector?

Depends on the model of the detector, but wireless motions are not supposed to light up; if they light up they have been put into test mode, either by opening the tamper switch, removing and reinserting the battery, or by positioning an internal jumper to the test position. If the motion is a 5890(PI), remove the batteries and short the empty battery sockets for about 30 seconds to reset the low battery circuit, then reinsert the batteries and close the cover, making sure the tamper switch is properly closed. Other motions don't need this reset procedure, but do need all tamper switches closed. Ensure no one is moving near the motion and reset the keypad by entering your code plus Off (just like coming home). If everything is right and all other devices closed the ready light should come on.

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The red wire from motion detector connects to both of the black wires from the lights. The black wire from the motion detector connects to the incoming black wire from the switch or source. The white wire from the motion detector connects to both of the white wires from the lights and to the incoming white wire from the switch or source (all white wires are under one wirenut).

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I am trying wire a motion Senior its has 3 wires coming out the back red white black

To connect a separate motion detector to a light fixture (and assuming the fixture uses incandescent or the newer twisted florescent light bulbs), the RED wire from the detector is attached to the black ("hot") wire from the fixture; the WHITE wire from the detector is attached to the white wire from the power source; the BLACK wire from the detector is attached to the black ("hot") wire from the power source. Sometimes the white and black wires from the power source are mixed up, reversed. So it is best to check to determine which wire is actually "hot" (shows voltage in a meter between the wire and the ground wire or the metal box the power wires come from). In general, a colored wire (often black) in the power source, if wired properly according to accepted custom, will be "hot" and 120v in US. The white wire in the power source is called the "neutral" and should be neutral with the ground wire and/or the metal box. If there is another colored wire in the power source (often red) and if it is not taped with some black tape (to indicate it is really a black wire), then it too may be a 120v. hot wire, but it may also be an 120v. hot wire that is 120v opposite the other 120v wire. That is, one 120v wire is 120v+ and the other is 120v- The difference in voltage between these 120v wires + and - is, hence, 220v. If you see multiple colored wires, it is also a good idea to check the voltage between them to know if you are dealing with a power source that entails 220v. In short, you want to know what you are doing, obviously for personal safety, but also to accomplish what you want... to properly connect the motion detector.

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I am looking at the manual from Leviton.

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The blacks and whites twisted together are passing through power to other parts of your premises and are always on, so be sure to keep them twisted together. The red is the one that will take power from your light switch and send it to your light fixture.

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