The unit was working great and then it shut off. We checked all of the breaker and all seems to be fine. Connections all seem good. Could it be something blew on the main power connection. No lights whatsoever.
Re: no power to the boiler--- breakers are all fine
What type of unit do you have, need details, if it is a split system there will be a pc board inside inside / outside or both units, on the board will be a glass fuse, turn power off at switchboard before removing covers.
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What was the voltage that you measured? Are the units 220 volt or 120 volt. Units that size are usually fed by 220 volts. What is the current rateing of the circuit breakers? Are they a double breaker with a handeling capacity of 20 amps or are they 15 amps.
You didn't mention if they ever worked? Are you feeding 120 volts or 220 volts to the two units?
No - the outside temperature will not shut the AC down.
You say the outlet has power? Does it have the needed 220 volts? Most of the time 220 volts is on one switch, (that operates both 110 volt legs of power at the same time). - but sometimes each leg is on a separate breaker and if "one leg" trips you will still have power at the outlet (110 volts) but you won't have the needed 220 volts. While this is not likely - it is possible - so I would want to test the outlet with a voltage tester and determine the voltage. You might try checking in your breaker box and seeing if another breaker (110volt) is tripped. The same thing applies if you are dealing with fuses instead of breakers - determine the voltage at the outlet - and if you don't have 220 and only have 110 then look for a blown fuse or as I said above - a breaker tripped.
If you do have 220 at the outlet and nothing is running - I would be looking for an inline fuse of some sort within in the unit. Many of the newer units have them and they are usually easy to spot and all you have to do is to unscrew the fuse holder and replace the blown fuse. Be sure to have the power off when handling fuses.
Note: Be aware that while breakers/fuses can trip and blow without a serious problem going on - they (blown fuses/tripped breakers) are usually a sign of something significantly wrong with the unit.
High amp draw can be caused by a few different things, so first check that incoming voltage to trailer is sufficient. (115 volts) Not unusual for some parks to install more hydro hook-ups on a feed line, and when all are up and running, your incoming voltage could be decreased. If your o.k. that way, then I'd start looking at the compressor circuit of your ac, in particular, the compressor start-up capacitor. The capacitor basically stores electricity and boosts it to higher voltage for compressor and fan start-ups to reduce current draw that will trip the breaker. Please have a knowledgeable electrician, or RV tech check this for you, as a capacitor can give a real good high voltage (possible fatal) shock, even when power is off to unit. I also suspect that the start relay has shorted (welded) itself due to high amp draw situation, and that is reason it comes on by itself.
Sounds to me like your contactor switch is not fully disengaging when unit shuts off. The reason I think this is even though the unit itself shuts off there is still power going to the contactor but, once you shut power off to contactor by shutting off breaker you release contactor since there isnt any power left to cause switch to continue to be energized.
It looks as if the 24 signal from the thermostat is not getting to the contactor. Or possibly the coil in the contactor itself is dead. Or a third option may be a bad control power board in the condensing unit itself. If you feel comfortable reading through these devices comment back. PLEASE REMEMBER THERE IS HIGH VOLTAGE INSIDE THE CONDENSER AND A CAPACITOR.
Sounds like you either blew a transformer, have a bad circuit breaker or blew the main fuse in the outside disconnect. If the indoor unit is still blowing air (no matter what temperature) start looking at the power supply to the outdoor unit. From the circuit breaker, the power will go to a small box located within a few feet from the outside unit. This box will have either a lever on the side or you will be able to open the box and pull out the fuses. From this box the power goes to the condensor. The first thing you should do is to turn off the breaker to the outside unit. Flip it back on and if you have a call for cooling, after about 3 minutes the outdoor unit should start. If it does not, shut off power again to the unit by switching off the breaker, go outside and pull out the fuses in the disconnect box. Using a multi meter, check for continuity thru the fuses. If you have continuity, call your technician. If one or both fuses show no sign of continuity, replace the fuse(s).
Make sure that the thermostat is working and sending a signal to the indoor air handler. You may be able to check this by turning the fan switch to "Fan" and see if the blower turns on. You may just have a bad thermostst.
Caution should be used anytime you are near electrical components. If you do not have the skill-set required to test electrical equipment, leave it to a proffessional.