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The timer not moving is a sure sign it needs replaced. Fortunately replacing it is easy. Just search for your make and model dryer and order the timer. Remove the power, the back panel with the timer, the knob on the timer, and just a couple of screws and it's out. One by one move wires from old timer to new, install the reverse as taking it out. Put the knob back on, and the back panel. Plug it in, and you should be golden.
Ah, I just saw you answered in your own question! Good job! :-)
Anytime the drum turns, with or without heat, and the timer makes noises, doesn't move, has to be wiggled to start, or the start position changed, you can bet it's the timer. We just don't want to take a risk because it's one of the most expensive parts to replace, usually the motor costs a bit more, but seldom go out. Don't waste time troubleshooting other parts if any of the above applies, it's usually the timer.
This is a mechanical timer that has an old fashioned timer spring inside. The spring is corroded or broken. If you want to save a buck, With the breaker supplying power turned off, Open the panel and look for an opening in the actual switch and, using the narrow tube that comes with CRC or WD40 spray and lubricate it. Then exercise the switch while the power is off. Second choice...order the part from the manufacturer!
Sorry for the troubles sounds like you have a bad timer since its not heat then the timer wont advance past a certain point. I would recommend you calling a qualified service technician come look at it and to replace the bad timer or you can do this yourself. You will need the model number off the dryer which will be on the back of the unit on the dash or inside the door opening take that number to your local appliance parts house so they can get you the proper timer. Now for installing it make sure you unplug the unit and then you will have to remove the back cover panel on the dash once removed slowly remove wire by wire replacing it to where its suppose to go on the new timer if you put a wire in the wrong spot you will fry the new timer once completed remove the old timer it should have 2 screws holding it to the dash and replace it with the new timer and put your cover back on and then plug it back up and set the timer to 60mins on the timed dry and tune it on and see if it Advances and heats. I hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa!
You Have a Broken Timer... There are metal points inside the Timer and can melt together so when the dryer reachs its end cycle they should come apart to leave the circuit open but wont since they melted together and continues to run. Also if the dryer has a computer board controling everything that would have to be replaced if it dosnt have a timer.
1. You will have to replace the timer if your going to accomplish this on your own you will need the model number which is located on the inside of the door opening will say mod or model.
2. You will need to find a appliance parts house in your area and call them to find out how much the new timer will cost plus to make sure they still make them and if on there shelf.
3. Once you have the new timer you will need a small flat head screw driver, 1/4" - 5/16" socket and a Phillips head screw driver to remove back panel bolts.
4. (WARNING)Unplug the dryer always make sure its unplugged or you risk being severly injurded or possible death the dryer has 220 volts running thru it!
5. Remove the back panel on the dryer where the dash is once removed you will see all the wires connecting to the timer. This is where the 1/4" or 5/16 socket comes in unless its a phillips head screw driver should be 1/4" some models will require a specail star bit normally on GE Dryers
6. Remove the timer knob should slide right off then remove the 2 1/4" screws holding the timer to the dash.
7. With new timer in hand make sure it lines up with the old one so you can put the wires back where they go (IMPORTANT THERE WILL BE 2 BLACK OR BROWN WIRES GOING TO A METAL LOOKING ROUND THING THATS THE CLOCK IT DRIVES THE TIMER LEAVE THEM WIRES WHERE THERE AT) now slowly remove 1 WIRE AT A TIME off old timer and connect to new timer where they go so you dont get wires hooked up to wrong post and fry the new timer if wires wont pop off yous your flat head screw driver to gently pry the wires off the post.
8. Place timer back where it goes there are aligment holes to help and replace the 2 screws you took out earlier from the timer.
9. Replace the back panel to the dash once completed plug in your dryer and replace the timer knob and set it to 5 mins let the dryer run till it shuts off to make sure its working properly.
If your dryer has a Computer Board the new board you order will have instructions for installing it alor the them are different on how the go in.
If unsure or dont want to fool with it call a qualified techinician to service your dryer for you but hopfully this will get you back going again have a good day.
The operating thermostat controls the timer and should open and close the circuit as it senses heat during the dry cycle. If it fails to open it will just keep the timer 'energized all the time and run straight through and go off. Change the 'operating thermostat'
Maytag Bravos 400 Series Dryer purchased August 2009 - November 2009 required repair as I also experience the timer readjusting itself to excessive extended drying time when clothing was bone dry and hot. Sometimes extended to 1 hour 40 minutes! Serviceman stated problem was the Sensors in the dryer. Part number 8577274 Thermister and "Old Ohmed out open" whatever that means as listed on my repair ticket. Have not had that particular problem since. Make sure your dryer vents from dryer to outside are clean and clear of lint. Will help immensely. I have many other issues with this dryer it has been down FOUR times in 9 months. Fighting with Maytag to replace this lemon!
Step 1: To access the timer, remove the front of the control panel. On some dryers, the timer can be removed without removing the panel. In either case, pull the timer knob off the shaft and slip off the pointer. The pointer is usually keyed to the shaft by two flat surfaces to keep the pointer from slipping when it's turned. Step 2: Test the timer with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Turn the timer to the NORMAL DRY setting and disconnect one of the timer power leads. Some timers may have several wires connected to them: The power leads are usually larger than the other wires, and this size difference can be spotted under close examination. Clip one probe of the meter to each timer terminal. If the meter reads zero, the timer is working. If the needle jumps to a high reading, the timer is faulty and should be replaced. Replace the timer with a new one of the same size and type. Step 3: To replace the timer, have a helper hold the new timer close to the old one, especially if there are several wires to be changed. Disconnect the old wires one at a time, connecting each corresponding new wire as you work, to make sure the connections are properly made. Or, draw a diagram detailing the proper connections. After all the wires are connected, check the connections again for accuracy.
Jack, the difference between the new and older board is that they added a capacitor on the new board to allow the removal of the capacitor on the radiant sensor. Sometimes a build-up of fabric softner on the sensor bars prevents detection of moisture on the clothes. I usually use a light sandpaper and go over the bars lightly. Give this a shot...Catriver...post back.