Checked voltage input on each leg---checked amp draw on each leg when running--both of these were within limits. Amp surge at start up seemed a little high150+. It starts slow and groans on restart when pressure drops to kick it back on. It appears to properly unload when it reaches pressure. Then, all of a sudden it will groan to restart the next time and pop the reset. This compresssor is not very many months old.
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Have you checked the run capacitor for the compressor? Make sure its putting out the correct U.F's, 35, 40 or what ever your is. See if is is swollen, leaking oil, or deformed in anyway. If so, replace it. If you have a amp probe, with the unit calling for cooling, check each leg going to the R, S, and Common lead to see if it is drawing L, R, Amps. This will be stamped on top of compressor, and on the data plate. Check these before the compressor trips out on overload. Even if it ohm's OK, doesn't mean its good. You need to check all of the starting componants. Sounds as though you have a faulty run capacitor. Shastalaker7 A/C, & Heating Contractor
I would definetely suspect the check valve or the unloader you should be able to pull up the safety on the head of the compressor when off if constant air pressure is there, the check valve is faulty.If it is not unloading through the unloader or pressure switch at shut off, it will cause high amp draw on startup seeing the cylinders are already pressurized. Let me know if this helps, i worked on compressors for 5+ years
With no air in the tank and amp meter connected to one leg of line, start compressor and note amp draw thru cycle. It should draw low amps at first then reach rated amp draw close to end of cycle(most likely 12-15 amps). If amp draw is normal then replace thermal breaker. Older compressors have thermal breaker incorporated within winding and may not be easily replaced (but not impossible). If amp draw is higher than rated, check capacitor for proper rating and make sure that the in-tank check valve is not leaking pressure back to pump. Good holidays
Jamie It sounds like you have a check valve thats bad or possibly high amps causing the over load to trip. If its a check vale you should have air blowing from the copper line that attaches to the pressure switch. Also you can disconnect the tube at the hp head. If its blowing air the check valves needs replacing. Now if the over load is tripping you will need to check the amp draw with an amp meter. A 7.5 hp motor should be pulling approximately 35 to 40 amps if its single phase 230 volt. if not depending on voltage the amps will be less. Pull the disconnect before Removing the starter box cover. Find the bottom of the overload where the motor leads connect. just above will be some metal strips that have a number like E68 on them. There will also be a sticker in the starter box cover that will have numbers like E68 and a corresponding amp range. Your max amp draw should correspond to the amp range in the cover. If amps are out (higher) of range you need to install larger heaters in the overload. Ex. you May need E69 or E70 overload heaters instead of E68 heaters. Hope this helps you
High amp draw can be caused by a few different things, so first check that incoming voltage to trailer is sufficient. (115 volts) Not unusual for some parks to install more hydro hook-ups on a feed line, and when all are up and running, your incoming voltage could be decreased. If your o.k. that way, then I'd start looking at the compressor circuit of your ac, in particular, the compressor start-up capacitor. The capacitor basically stores electricity and boosts it to higher voltage for compressor and fan start-ups to reduce current draw that will trip the breaker. Please have a knowledgeable electrician, or RV tech check this for you, as a capacitor can give a real good high voltage (possible fatal) shock, even when power is off to unit. I also suspect that the start relay has shorted (welded) itself due to high amp draw situation, and that is reason it comes on by itself.
Recheck the way you have the motor leads hooked up, make sure they are correct. You did re connect the motor leads didnt you? You are not trying to run it on 230v single phase are you? Assuming it is a dual voltage motor, the leads will have to be re connected from hi voltage to lo voltage. Also when you cut the operating voltage in half the operating current(amps ) will double, all this info should be on the motor name plate. This motor does not use a capicitor to start it
Yes it could be running (turning) hard which will make the motor pull high amps. If you installa new motor make sure to check the amps while running to be sure that the draw is not over the name plate spec. Could also be that you just got a bad motor... believe me it happens more often then you would think...
I am assuming that you have checked the oil in the compressor and that the level is okay...
IF YOUR PRETTY SURE DRAW A CAPACITOR WIRING DIAGRAM AND THEN TAKE YOUR CAPACITORS TO ANY MOTOR SHOP OR SUPPLY HOUSE LIKE WW GRAINGER. THEY CAN CHECK THE MICROFARRADS OR UNIFARRADS OF YOUR CAPACITORS. YOUR START CAPACITORS HAVE THE LARGER MF OR UF RATING AND ARE TYPICALLY LARGER IN SIZE. YOUR P.O.S. INGERSOL RAND MAY EVEN BE A 3500 RPM MOTOR AND COULD HAVE UP TO 5 CAPACITORS. 3 OF WHICH ARE START. IS YOUR WIRE LARGE ENOUGH? IS YOUR BREAKER LARGE ENOUGH? IS YOUR COMPRESSOR UNLOADING THE HEAD PRESSURE WHEN IT CUTS OFF? IS IT OUTSIDE AND TOO COLD IN THE MORNINGS? MAKE SURE YOUR WIRING IS LARGE ENOUGH BECAUSE THAT IS USUALLY THE PROBLEM. YOU HAVE SINGLE PHASE BUT IS YOUR VOLTAGE CORRECT 208V OR 230 V. ALL WIRING AND GAUGING CHARTS ARE BASED ON 100 FT OF WIRE . MOST COMPRESSORS PULL 3 TIMES THE AMP RATING ON INITIAL STARTUP THEN COM DOWN TO AMPS LISTED ON THE MOTOR.