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1 - Remove rear wheel 2 - Remove posi screw from bottom of rear wheel hub assembly 3 - Allow bottom block and spring to fall into palm of hand 4 - Push rear wheel lock bottom down through rear assembly to remove. 5 - Clean wheel lock button and locking plate to ensure free movement. 6 - Clean rear hub and locking button housing with dry cloth. 7 - Apply lubricant thinly in recess to allow free movement of button (dry Teflon spray is best - find it in the laundry aisle of larger supermarkets) 8 - Re-fitting is reverse procedure of removal instructions.
Front wheel bearings are expensive because they come as an entire hub assembly, but the labor isn't too bad, maybe 1 hour. The rear bearings are relatively cheap, but the labor to get to them is long. The axle has to come out, so that means the differential needs to be opened. The brakes have to be disassembled. Depending what kind of deal you can get a front hub assembly for, the rear bearings will probably cost you more.
the rear wheel bearings have to be pressed together, you have to remove the hole hub assembly and then have some one press the hub apart and back together, so what i am saying is that you can remove the hub assembly with just some basic hand tools but unless you have a press you can not replace the bearing.
To install a clutch is not what I call an easy job but not an extremely difficult job either. You are going to need some special tools however.
The tools you'll need are an impact wrench, a large socket to fit the compensator nut and one to fit the mainshaft nut, a primary locking bar, torque wrenches that will torque to 150 foot pounds and 70 foot pounds in the left handed direction, and a special tool required to disassemble the clutch assembly.
First, disconnect the battery, then drain the primary and remove the outer primary cover. Use the impact wrench and appropiate socket to remove the compensator sprocket nut from the engine shaft. Remove the snap ring holding the release plate in the center of the clutch assembly and remove the LEFT HANDED THREADED mainshaft nut. Take the nut off the chain tensioner and remove the primary drive (engine sprocket, adjuster, and clutch assembly) as a unit.
Now, using the special tool, compress the clutch spring and remove the lock ring holding the clutch assembly together. Disassemble the clutch and reassemble it with the new clutch hub. Reinstall the primary drive. Apply one line of Loctite 271 inside the mainshaft nut and torque it to 70-80 foot pounds LEFT HANDED. Apply two lines of Loctite 271 (red) to the compensator nut and torque it to 150-165 foot pounds. This is what the locking bar is for, to keep the engine from turning while applying the torque to these two nut. Adjust the primary chain and reinstallt the outer primary. Add about one quart of lubricant to the primary. Reconnect the battery. Adjsut the clutch and cable.
A Front Wheel Drive Vehicle Can Have Two Types Of Rear Wheel Bearings: Serviceable Bearings, Or Nonserviceable, Sealed Bearings. When Sealed Bearings Fail, The Bolts Holding The Bearing And Hub To The Axel Or Control Arm Must Be Removed. When Installing The New Bearing Assembly, Torque The Bolts To Specifications.Some Manufacturers require The Use Of New Fasteners When Rear Bearings And Hubs Are Replaced.
When A Serviceable Wheel Bearing Is Used, The Bearing Can Be Disassembled And Packed With Grease.It Is Serviced Like A Front Wheel Bearing On A Rear-wheel-Drive-Car.
It is a tight fit, a few wacks with a hammer should loosen it. Hit on the back side of the flange where the wheel mounts, try to drive it away from the car, after making sure you have removed all the bolts.
you do have to dissasemble the hubs because the rotors bolt on to them. if it is two wheel drive take the center caps off of hubs remove the spindle nuts and bearings pull complete hub assembly off and unbolt rotor from hub. if it is four wheel drive you will have to remove the lockout assembly be careful not to loose any parts from this it won't work when put back together.