Glow ignitor working, but the oven won't ignite... I hae only 2.3 volts to the safety gas valve... So does this mean that I have a bad valve, or not enough voltage present to allow gas flow? Should it 3 volts or 3.5 volts at the vlv? I am working on a Frigidare Gas Oven model# FGF316BSB Ser# VF35124945 Thank you kindly in advance
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The igniter is the most commonly defective part for a gas oven that won't turn on. The igniter has two main functions. First, the igniter draws electrical current through the oven safety valve to open it. Second, the igniter gets hot enough to glow and ignite the gas in the burner assembly. If the igniter gets weak, it will fail to open the safety valve correctly. If the valve does not open, the oven will not heat. To determine if the igniter is defective, observe the igniter when the oven is on. If the igniter glows for more than 90 seconds without igniting the gas flame, this indicates that the igniter is too weak to open the valve. If the igniter is weak, replace it. If the igniter does not glow at all, use a multimeter to test the igniter for continuity. If the igniter does not have continuity, replace it.
First thing to suspect would be a weak igniter....see if the amp draw while the igniter is glowing matches the amp rating of the gas valve, the value will be on the side of the valve, if the amp draw of the igniter is lower than the rating of the valve you would need to replace the glow coil/igniter.
Initors work with oven safety valves and open gas safety valves when the amp draw changes as the ignitor heats up. Ig niters light the flame and then become a thermocouple and send back confirmation of ignition to the central control. The model above uses a glow bar ignitor which is wired in series with the oven control and safety valve. The most common mistake when diagnosing the ignitor is working is you see it glowing. But that does not mean it is strong enough to open the bi-metal inside the gas safety valve which requires a minimum of 3.5 amps to bend the bi-metal so it will release gas to the burner. -PawPaw.
If the glow bar is glowing and the oven doesn't come on in about 30 - 45 seconds.... it probably is the glow bar that needs to be replaced. BUT it could be the oven valve. Usually it is the glow bar.
The glow bar is wired in series with the oven valve and even if it is glowing it may not be sending the correct voltage through to the oven valve.
To change the glowbar... unplug the appliance, unscrew 2 screws holding the metal bracket to the burner and remove the ignitor. You can cut the 2 white wires going to the ignitor and use ceramic wire nuts with the new ignitor.
Just because the igniter is glowing doesn't mean it isn't bad. You also have a safety valve at the bottom rear of the oven that could be bad. If the igniter doesn't get hot enough to ignite the gas the safety valve will not let the gas in. If you don't have a separate broiler from the oven, check and see if broil works if so then its the "glow plug".
With the assumption you have a gas range with electric ignition and is fully powered (plugged in); the possible problem may be the "Electric ignitor/Glow bar".
When turning on the oven, do you see a redish (good) or yellowish (not good; replace) glow emitting from the very bottom or the oven/broil area?
There are typically 2 types of electric glow bar ignitors; Round and Square. Ignitors are actually fairly easy to replace, removing 2 mounting screws and cutting/splicing 2 seperate wires together. Is your ignitor "round" (circular - like size of finger ) or "square" (rectangular - like snickers candy bar)
If your ignitor is not coming on at all; this can be a couple things;
Defective Ignitor - Gone completely Bad - Out (Assuming your have full power 110v to ignitor)
Defective Gas Valve - Assist in passing 110V to Ignitor
Defective Control Board / Thermostat: Assist in passing 110V to Ignitor
FYI - As a safety measure, the ignitor needs to "come on and appear solid red" to properly pass power to gas valve; thus opening and allowing gas to pass through the burners and combust.
Turn on oven. Ignitor should begin to glow. (if no glow after 30 seconds or so, check to make sure you have 120 volts to ignitor) Observe amperage draw using a clamp on amp meter. When amperage reaches 3.2 to 3.6 (for square syle ignitors) the oven safety valve should open, releasing gas and lighting the burner when the gas hits the red hot ignitor. For broiler, just substitute the word broiler for oven. Old ignitors get " weak " and may not draw enough amperage to allow safety valve to open. Also, voltage will affect the amperage draw, as lower voltage = lower amp draw.
The technical jargon is,.....:
In order for your gas oven to work this is what has to happen: 1. when you turn on the oven, the range sends 120 volts to the glow bar igniter. 2. as the igniter heats up (and starts to glow) it starts using more electricity. 3. when the electric use reaches a set amount (say 3.2 amps) the range knows the glow bar igniter is hot enough to ignite the gas, so it then releases gas through the gas safety valve. 4. when the thermostat tells the oven controller that the temperature has been reached, the control cuts power to the igniter, cutting the amp draw down, causing the safety gas valve to close. 5. process repeats to hold oven temp until you turn off oven.
So,..........the solution is:
most likely your oven igniter burnt out. Find your model number, usually on the range frame just behind the lower drawer or broiler drawer (depending on if it is a self clean gas range or not) and order the correct igniter and replace it.
I suspect you may have a bad igniter. They will still glow nice and hot, but if they are weak the gas valve will not open. This is actually a safety feature. Depending on which type you have, the glow bar igniter is supposed to draw a certain current potential before the gas valve will open. Here's the current readings for both types:
Round Glow Bar: 2.7 to 3.2 amps
Square Glow Bar: 3.2 to 3.7 amps
I would try to to determine if the igniter is good or bad before proceeding with a gas valve replacement. Generally, the igniter is a common fail item. Let me know if this helps.