I came home and saw completly Oven control and timer is not working.
Service guy opened the back cover and checked power on or not.He found power is coming on the each section of electrical control board but something inside of board not working or burn out.He does not sure is fixable or not.
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Re: Oven Control not working
Vahid, is the display black, nothing there? Try pressing the bake and broil pads together for 3 seconds until display shows SF. Then press clock. If this doesn't work try the ERC test by doing this; Kill the power to the range for 10 seconds. Press the cooking time, delay start and number 8 pads all together. The display should show the word test. Give this a shot first....Catriver..post back.
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Hello. You have an open rear oven thermostat causing the complete power failure of your unit. The part numbers you need are W10176670 for the upgraded blower and 9759243 for the thermostat. You will have to remove the oven from the wall in order to remove the back covers to access the thermostat and blower. The blower has been upgraded from 950cfm of airflow to 1200cfm. I have performed this service flash--you will definitely need a helper or 2 in order to pull the oven out and work on it. There is a service bulletin on your oven describing this exact situation. When you replace the thermostat and blower, re-mount the oven and then restore power, the oven will function and unlock. The link for the thermostat is here: Thermal Overload Safety Thermostat
If the front side the oven has melted so that you are unable to do this.
Then the plastic cover would need to be removed, I beleave the buttons would still work without the plastic cover, but I do recommend geting this serviced by a professional but if you must get it to work right now.
I don't have a service manual so I dont know exactly how to remove the cover.
Hello there schematics for your unit will be next to impossible to find on the internet. My guess is that your unit uses a manual type timer as units that old usually have the timer independent of the other functions of the unit.therefore you wont be able to find any wires which power the unit. Mostly the timer will run on its own as a result of sensors on the unit. Both options which you have considered are gud but lubricating the bearings seems more likely although getting at it might be a bit difficult what you need is a watch expert usually they have methods of loosing out the entire clock mechanism taking it for servicing and fixing it back on your unit this way the bearing noise will stop. Also if you decide to take of the clock completely the same procedure applies. Hope this solution has been helpful?
Is this a range with the oven in the bottom and the hot plates on top. If so does it have an electronic timer/clock. If it does the electronic timer must be set to manual for the oven to work. If unsure turn the oven on and then adjust the mode control on the timer. If it is set to auto now and you can get it to manual the oven indicator lamp should light and the oven should work. If it is a separate oven and cooktop there may be a separate power supply for the oven at the switchboard.
"E0-F2" is a short-keypad error. This usually is an indicaton that the Electronic Range Control (ERC) is defective and needs to be replaced. The ERC, also known as an Electronic Oven Control (EOC), controls all the features of the oven, clock and timer. This is your clock/timer assembly on the control panel. The following link explains how to replace one:
Prices vary between sites, so shop and compare. The first three sites listed also have helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying the parts you may need.
NOTE: In most cases the overlay (preprinted plastic display covering with all the numbering and lettering on it) does NOT come with the control board. If your overlay is still in good condition, it can be easily removed from the old control board and reapplied to the new one. Just make sure you properly orient the overlay so the buttons all match up. If you need to replace your overlay, you may need to order it separately. Read the part descriptions carefully to see what your replacement parts include. If you have any questions, please post back with your complete MODEL NUMBER (located on a nameplate around the oven door, or lower drawer opening) and let me know. I hope this helps you.
NOTE: You may try UNPLUGGING the range, remove the back panel and check all the board connections, first. Disconnect each plug on the control board one at a time and check to ensure the connections are not corroded and there are no broken wires. If the error code returns, you will need to replace the control board.
We had the same problem as well. everything locked up and the display board went dead. It turned out to be the thermostat in the back. Once that was replaced everything worked ok. . The serviceman told us to pull the oven out from the wall when self cleaning. It is because the heat disapation and air circulation from the oven is very poor when running at maximum temperatures and this burns out components. First check the termostat, which is a $20.00 item.
This is a problem with the control panel assembly, which we repair nationwide for $32.50 postpaid.
Sometimes the bulbs short when they fail, and that damages the control board. This also can happen when bulbs are removed or installed without first unlugging the oven or turning off the breaker.
For critical safety & disassembly info and other details of our service, see http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk