Question about Zanussi 18 in. DA4342 Free-standing Dishwasher

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Zanussi DW907 No Water, and Element Overheating and Melting Plastic Wheels

I have found a temporary solution to the lack of water by pouring water into the dishwasher just after it finishes draining at the beginning of its cycle and then adding more a couple more times as soon as it finishes draining. I have cleaned all tubes etc to no avail. I don't know where the float is to check if this is stuck. Also can't locate the inlet valve. Have found the float switch I think behind the front base plate but would like to be able to check if the valve and float are in working order first. The machine drains all water when cycle is finished - so I have been adding water before turning the machine on to prevent the element overheating - this glows red if left unchecked. Is it worth fixing anyway as this is a fairly old model - works very well when I pour in jugs of water!

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  • Anonymous Jun 02, 2008

    I've got the same problem. Also it now trips the fuse box when I switch on!

  • srjohnson Dec 16, 2008

    My D/Washer does the same...Fuse box tripping when swiched on
    any ideas please...Steve

  • mwilkins2 Jan 01, 2009

    I also have this problem and I am doing the same thing. Filling up with water just after the wash cycle starts and also when the rince cycle starts.

    The water is entering the machine but not being pumped in. Is it the water pump?

    Also how do I find the pump if I need to change it?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: zanussi zdt6053 will not fill with water

how i can operate the zanussi zdt6053 because i lost the manual can you support me please

Posted on Aug 20, 2008

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SOURCE: Zanussi ZDT6252 stops 1min into cycle

You need to reset the computer on the bottom. Had the same problem with mine. The Blinking led means the heating element is bad and will not operate.

Posted on Jun 05, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Intermittent Dishwasher fault Zanussi 23

Fixed the problem by replacing the ELECTRIC ANTI-OVERFLOW VALVE. Simple enough installation - bit fiddly.


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Posted on Jan 12, 2009

  • 234 Answers

SOURCE: Cycle starts but water doesn't fill past heating elements.

I think that the problem is the water inlet valve if the machine is not filling at all.

If the machine is not filling to the correct level, it may be the float switch.

Posted on Apr 27, 2009

  • 3335 Answers

SOURCE: my zanussi dishwasher won't drain,the water is

Hi blocked drain plug or pump is blocked

Posted on Feb 17, 2010

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1 Answer

Can calcium deposit on the heat element cause the unit to smoke and smell like an electrical fire? And how can. I fix this?


It could be.... It could also be something plastic that got onto the element that is melting and smoking. It could also be a connector to the control board that is loose and is over heating. This is more serious. Carefully check the heating element for some foreign plastic part that is pressing up against it. If there is nothing, then call a professional to make sure that it's not the controller that is overheating and in danger of catching fire.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ronald_e6b9572cebe3ad27

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Fridgidaire freezer warming up


Red light on for High Freezer Temperature Warning
or freezer not cooling, but fridge is and a lot of noise from compressor.
Also, fridge drain hole blocked, water in bottom of fridge.


This is a common fault in Hotpoint Fridge Freezers and can also happen if the door has been left open or has been a power cut.

1. Turn off fridge freezer, or at least turn down the freezer temp to minimum, though not ideal.
2. Open freezer door and remove all drawers.
3. Remove the back panel on the inside of the freezer. This is held in place with 4 screws, which might be 6mm hex head or star allen head. Pull the panel out.
4. Behind where the panel was, there is a cooling element for cooling, pipes, and below this a temperature sensor. If the fridge freezer is not switched off, then fold together a few layers of tinfoil and wrap around the sensor.
5. Use a hairdryer to slowly melt the ice. Melt it around areas where it appears to be hanging on, such as the corners of the cooling element or bolts, as well as any thin sections below the main block of ice around the cooling element, which will be supporting the main block. Use a plastic ice scraper to remove ice but not near pipes or sensor.
Warning: Be careful using electrics around water & melting ice & drips.
6. Below the cooling element, there is a drip channel & drain hole. If this hole is full of ice, pour a small amound of warm water down, leave for 10 seconds and pour a bit more until clear.
In the fridge, clear the drain hole in the same way.
Warning: Do not pour a lot of water down, as this water drains onto a tray above the hot compressor at the rear of the fridge freezer to be evaporated by the heat of the compressor and the tray will only hold a small amount.
7. When all ice is removed, dry all moisture. Put the shelves back. Close door. Turn on fridge freezer. Turn up the freezer temperature to your normal setting. Turn on fast freeze if available. After 1 hour, check with a thermometer. It should be cold enough after 1 or 2 hours.

Sep 09, 2013 | Freezers

1 Answer

Freezer compressor is short cycling


Red light on for High Freezer Temperature Warning
or freezer not cooling, but fridge is and a lot of noise from compressor.
Also, fridge drain hole blocked, water in bottom of fridge.


This is a common fault in Hotpoint Fridge Freezers and can also happen if the door has been left open or has been a power cut.

1. Turn off fridge freezer, or at least turn down the freezer temp to minimum, though not ideal.
2. Open freezer door and remove all drawers.
3. Remove the back panel on the inside of the freezer. This is held in place with 4 screws, which might be 6mm hex head or star allen head. Pull the panel out.
4. Behind where the panel was, there is a cooling element for cooling, pipes, and below this a temperature sensor. If the fridge freezer is not switched off, then fold together a few layers of tinfoil and wrap around the sensor.
5. Use a hairdryer to slowly melt the ice. Melt it around areas where it appears to be hanging on, such as the corners of the cooling element or bolts, as well as any thin sections below the main block of ice around the cooling element, which will be supporting the main block. Use a plastic ice scraper to remove ice but not near pipes or sensor.
Warning: Be careful using electrics around water & melting ice & drips.
6. Below the cooling element, there is a drip channel & drain hole. If this hole is full of ice, pour a small amound of warm water down, leave for 10 seconds and pour a bit more until clear.
In the fridge, clear the drain hole in the same way.
Warning: Do not pour a lot of water down, as this water drains onto a tray above the hot compressor at the rear of the fridge freezer to be evaporated by the heat of the compressor and the tray will only hold a small amount.
7. When all ice is removed, dry all moisture. Put the shelves back. Close door. Turn on fridge freezer. Turn up the freezer temperature to your normal setting. Turn on fast freeze if available. After 1 hour, check with a thermometer. It should be cold enough after 1 or 2 hours.

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1 Answer

Warning light


Red light on for High Freezer Temperature Warning
or freezer not cooling, but fridge is and a lot of noise from compressor.
Also, fridge drain hole blocked, water in bottom of fridge.


This is a common fault in Hotpoint Fridge Freezers and can also happen if the door has been left open or has been a power cut.

1. Turn off fridge freezer, or at least turn down the freezer temp to minimum, though not ideal.
2. Open freezer door and remove all drawers.
3. Remove the back panel on the inside of the freezer. This is held in place with 4 screws, which might be 6mm hex head or star allen head. Pull the panel out.
4. Behind where the panel was, there is a cooling element for cooling, pipes, and below this a temperature sensor. If the fridge freezer is not switched off, then fold together a few layers of tinfoil and wrap around the sensor.
5. Use a hairdryer to slowly melt the ice. Melt it around areas where it appears to be hanging on, such as the corners of the cooling element or bolts, as well as any thin sections below the main block of ice around the cooling element, which will be supporting the main block. Use a plastic ice scraper to remove ice but not near pipes or sensor.
Warning: Be careful using electrics around water & melting ice & drips.
6. Below the cooling element, there is a drip channel & drain hole. If this hole is full of ice, pour a small amound of warm water down, leave for 10 seconds and pour a bit more until clear.
In the fridge, clear the drain hole in the same way.
Warning: Do not pour a lot of water down, as this water drains onto a tray above the hot compressor at the rear of the fridge freezer to be evaporated by the heat of the compressor and the tray will only hold a small amount.
7. When all ice is removed, dry all moisture. Put the shelves back. Close door. Turn on fridge freezer. Turn up the freezer temperature to your normal setting. Turn on fast freeze if available. After 1 hour, check with a thermometer. It should be cold enough after 1 or 2 hours.

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1 Answer

I keep getting water at the bottom of the fridge, under salad boxes on my Hotpoint fridge


Red light on for High Freezer Temperature Warning
or freezer not cooling, but fridge is and a lot of noise from compressor.
Also, fridge drain hole blocked, water in bottom of fridge.


This is a common fault in Hotpoint Fridge Freezers and can also happen if the door has been left open or has been a power cut.

1. Turn off fridge freezer, or at least turn down the freezer temp to minimum, though not ideal.
2. Open freezer door and remove all drawers.
3. Remove the back panel on the inside of the freezer. This is held in place with 4 screws, which might be 6mm hex head or star allen head. Pull the panel out.
4. Behind where the panel was, there is a cooling element for cooling, pipes, and below this a temperature sensor. If the fridge freezer is not switched off, then fold together a few layers of tinfoil and wrap around the sensor.
5. Use a hairdryer to slowly melt the ice. Melt it around areas where it appears to be hanging on, such as the corners of the cooling element or bolts, as well as any thin sections below the main block of ice around the cooling element, which will be supporting the main block. Use a plastic ice scraper to remove ice but not near pipes or sensor.
Warning: Be careful using electrics around water & melting ice & drips.
6. Below the cooling element, there is a drip channel & drain hole. If this hole is full of ice, pour a small amound of warm water down, leave for 10 seconds and pour a bit more until clear.
In the fridge, clear the drain hole in the same way.
Warning: Do not pour a lot of water down, as this water drains onto a tray above the hot compressor at the rear of the fridge freezer to be evaporated by the heat of the compressor and the tray will only hold a small amount.
7. When all ice is removed, dry all moisture. Put the shelves back. Close door. Turn on fridge freezer. Turn up the freezer temperature to your normal setting. Turn on fast freeze if available. After 1 hour, check with a thermometer. It should be cold enough after 1 or 2 hours.

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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If the machine is not filling to the correct level, it may be the float switch.

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