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Briggs Flo Jet carb floods and puts gas into the crankcase

Flo jet carb floods and stalls the engine. Then continues to flow from bottom openings in carb near the choke. Gas is also getting into the crank case. I removed the float bowl to check out the needle valve and float. Cleaned needle seat and needle.  Float looked okay but I know a leak can be hard to find in a float.  The motor is a Briggs model#191707. Type #068601   Just want to know if  you think I should buy a rebuild kit and a float to fix this problem. And what is the best way to remove the fuel in the crankcase completely?

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  • Anonymous Mar 25, 2014

    Got fuel going to the carb. But when I blow in the line on the carb. Where the fuel line goes is will not let air through. So I took the bottom bowl off and work the float Manuel up&down it works air in when float down & stopped when float was up. So I put bottom bowl back on and same thing know air will past threw when I blow in line. My ? Then is the float suppose to be close or open at this point ? If closed then how does gas get in.


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This is a common problem. The needle and seat are prone to being held open from debris, old fuel (these days it only takes a month for fuel to start to go bad) and poor mower design. The weight of the fuel from the tank can be enough to overpower the float system with just the slightest "gumming" of the needle seat. Also, if it's equipped with an electrically powered valve on the bottom of the float bowl, this unit can outright fail, get gummed up a bit, or the electrical system have a problem and power is getting to this unit while switched off, leaving it open thus passing fuel. Most likely, replacing the needle and seat, giving the carb a good cleaning will solve your problem, however if there is damage to the seat from age or debris, just install a 2 dollar in line shut off valve available at most retailers. Then just turn the fuel on and off manually. Cheap fix. 2. Drain the oil from the engine, refill with new oil and just a oz. of atf (automatic trans fluid). Crank the engine with plug wire disconnected for 30 sec or so, then connect the plug wire. Start the engine, but only let it run near idle for a minute or so. Drain again, letting the crankcase "air out" with all plugs\dipstick removed. Remaining fuel will evaporate. Refill and your off and cutting......The ATF is a detergent of a type and will help to collect the fuel from the surfaces inside the engine. It's important to note the fuel will have washed any lubrication properties from the oil, and damage to the journals and other surfaces can happen if the engine is run too long. Usually following the above procedure will limit damage and the engine should be good for many more seasons. Good luck! Papa

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

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