Briggs Flo Jet carb floods and puts gas into the crankcase
Flo jet carb floods and stalls the engine. Then continues to flow from bottom openings in carb near the choke. Gas is also getting into the crank case. I removed the float bowl to check out the needle valve and float. Cleaned needle seat and needle. Float looked okay but I know a leak can be hard to find in a float. The motor is a Briggs model#191707. Type #068601 Just want to know if you think I should buy a rebuild kit and a float to fix this problem. And what is the best way to remove the fuel in the crankcase completely?
Re: Briggs Flo Jet carb floods and puts gas into the...
This is a common problem. The needle and seat are prone to being held open from debris, old fuel (these days it only takes a month for fuel to start to go bad) and poor mower design. The weight of the fuel from the tank can be enough to overpower the float system with just the slightest "gumming" of the needle seat. Also, if it's equipped with an electrically powered valve on the bottom of the float bowl, this unit can outright fail, get gummed up a bit, or the electrical system have a problem and power is getting to this unit while switched off, leaving it open thus passing fuel.
Most likely, replacing the needle and seat, giving the carb a good cleaning will solve your problem, however if there is damage to the seat from age or debris, just install a 2 dollar in line shut off valve available at most retailers. Then just turn the fuel on and off manually. Cheap fix.
2. Drain the oil from the engine, refill with new oil and just a oz. of atf (automatic trans fluid). Crank the engine with plug wire disconnected for 30 sec or so, then connect the plug wire. Start the engine, but only let it run near idle for a minute or so. Drain again, letting the crankcase "air out" with all plugs\dipstick removed. Remaining fuel will evaporate. Refill and your off and cutting......The ATF is a detergent of a type and will help to collect the fuel from the surfaces inside the engine. It's important to note the fuel will have washed any lubrication properties from the oil, and damage to the journals and other surfaces can happen if the engine is run too long. Usually following the above procedure will limit damage and the engine should be good for many more seasons.
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Aug 5, 2013 - Uploaded by doublewide6
If your tractor keeps leaking gas into the crankcase see how you can fix the problem by ... The hard starting is caused by fuel filling the cylinder.
If the machine's fuel tank is located ABOVE the level of the engine's carburettor then it is most likely a "Gravity Feed" fuel supply system .. i.e. no fuel pump reqd. If that's the case then the carb has 'flooded' at some stage (most likely when engine was not running), and the fuel has simply flowed down thru the carb and into the intake tract, and then down into the sump via the crankcase breather tube. This is extremely common on "low end" brands which, for reasons of economy, are not equipped with low-mounted fuel tanks and fuel pumps. The reason that the carb has flooded is usually caused by a leaking Needle & Seat (aka Float Valve) in the carb, which could simply be caused by a bit of debris stopping the inlet needle from seating, OR, the Inlet needle may need replacing.
The reason why the engine wouldn't start is simply that it was flooded ... just like cars used to do back before EFI. Drain the crankcase and re-fill with oil, remove the spark plug and let engine dry out overnight, fit a new dry plug, put throttle lever at about 1/4 open, and crank the engine (OUTDOORS!) till it starts. May take a while to fire up, and may be a bit smoky for a while, but it should go. My advice ... NEVER buy a lawn tractor with a gravity feed fuel system. There should be laws against them.
Classic case of a clogged main jet. Drain the fuel. Remove the brass bolt and felt washer that hold the bowl on the carburetor. Clean the bowl. Clean all 3 holes in the brass bolt (main jet) until it is nice and shiny (carb/choke cleaner aerosol works well). Use NO metal objects in any of the holes of the bolt. Install and if float needle in carb is not sticking, fuel flow will be restored.
TIP: Add an ounce or two of Chem Tool Berryman B-12 Fuel System Treatment to your 4-stroke engine fuel container. Available at Auto Parts Stores everywhere. The active ingredient is Toulene and it WILL clean the carb and intake valve on the engines.
Drain the gas. Remove and clean the brass bolt that holds the lower aluminum float bowl onto the body of the carburetor. Use carb/choke cleaner aerosol spray. Use NO metal objects to clean this brass bolt. It is also the main jet for the carb. Clean the bottom hole and the very small metering holes along the top in the unthreaded section of the bolt. Clean until shiny and all holes clear. Reinstall (don't forget the felt external washer). This procedure WILL restore fuel flow to the engine so the engine doesn't die lean (lack of fuel).
The carburetor would be closed when starting if the automatic choke is functioning right. When you cleaned around the air filter, could some cleaner or debris have gotten into the carb? The line you took off is the crankcase ventilator tube, where crankcase gases are drawn from the lower engine and recycled back into the upper part of the engine to be burned with the fuel; like the PCV line on a car engine. A no start condition can be caused by numerous things. You may have ingested some cleaner/dirt/debris when you cleaned around the air filter area. Remove the air filter again, get some carb/choke cleaner aerosol spray and spray it into the carb with the throttle open. Immediately put the engine in START and try to start it. Try this a few times and you may be able to "coax" it into running and the gas flow may flush out the carb. Another thing to try is drain the old gas, remove the bowl on the carburetor and clean any sediment or water out of it. The brass screw holding the bowl on the carb has to be cleaned too. Use nothing metal to clean it. It has very small holes in it as it is the main jet to the carb. Clean the hole in the bottom and the very small ones in the smooth part 2/3 up the bolt. Try these things. Also make sure your spark plug is cleaned, gapped and sparking correctly. Post back if needed.
disconnect fuel line from carb and crank engine. NO FUEL-check in-line fuel filter, kinked line, trash or water in bottom of fuel tank. FUEL- gas is stale, has water in it, or carb has sediment in bowl, bottom jet or idle jet.or float could be stuck shut.
Inside the large cover at the bottom of your carb is a flotation bulb which controlls a small metal rod with a pointed end which opens and closes the flow of fuel.Dirt or gummy deposits stop the closure and allow fuel to flow freely through the engine.If your a handy type remove the carb and take the large cover off the carb remove the float and the "needle valve and clean the tip of the valve and the narrow hole the valve goes in with carb cleaner and small brushes.If not so handy remove the carb and take it to a knowledgeable neighbor or repair shop. If you do the work yourself take digital pics of the process to help reassembly.
If you're using ethanol-blended fuel, the ethanol will eat away at the neoprene parts inside the Briggs carb.Going to need a carb rebuild.
Don't run your engine until it's fixed or you could damage it as gas will pour into the crankcase, causing the oil to thin and lose its lubricating ability.