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Briggs Flo Jet carb floods and puts gas into the crankcase

Flo jet carb floods and stalls the engine. Then continues to flow from bottom openings in carb near the choke. Gas is also getting into the crank case. I removed the float bowl to check out the needle valve and float. Cleaned needle seat and needle.  Float looked okay but I know a leak can be hard to find in a float.  The motor is a Briggs model#191707. Type #068601   Just want to know if  you think I should buy a rebuild kit and a float to fix this problem. And what is the best way to remove the fuel in the crankcase completely?

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  • Anonymous Mar 25, 2014

    Got fuel going to the carb. But when I blow in the line on the carb. Where the fuel line goes is will not let air through. So I took the bottom bowl off and work the float Manuel up&down it works air in when float down & stopped when float was up. So I put bottom bowl back on and same thing know air will past threw when I blow in line. My ? Then is the float suppose to be close or open at this point ? If closed then how does gas get in.

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This is a common problem. The needle and seat are prone to being held open from debris, old fuel (these days it only takes a month for fuel to start to go bad) and poor mower design. The weight of the fuel from the tank can be enough to overpower the float system with just the slightest "gumming" of the needle seat. Also, if it's equipped with an electrically powered valve on the bottom of the float bowl, this unit can outright fail, get gummed up a bit, or the electrical system have a problem and power is getting to this unit while switched off, leaving it open thus passing fuel. Most likely, replacing the needle and seat, giving the carb a good cleaning will solve your problem, however if there is damage to the seat from age or debris, just install a 2 dollar in line shut off valve available at most retailers. Then just turn the fuel on and off manually. Cheap fix. 2. Drain the oil from the engine, refill with new oil and just a oz. of atf (automatic trans fluid). Crank the engine with plug wire disconnected for 30 sec or so, then connect the plug wire. Start the engine, but only let it run near idle for a minute or so. Drain again, letting the crankcase "air out" with all plugs\dipstick removed. Remaining fuel will evaporate. Refill and your off and cutting......The ATF is a detergent of a type and will help to collect the fuel from the surfaces inside the engine. It's important to note the fuel will have washed any lubrication properties from the oil, and damage to the journals and other surfaces can happen if the engine is run too long. Usually following the above procedure will limit damage and the engine should be good for many more seasons. Good luck! Papa

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

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2 Answers

This is not a rider mower its a push mower. I pump bulb engine starts and then quits


when this happens, the engine only runs long enough to consume the gas you manually put into the carb. The engine dies because the main jet of the carb is plugged or there is water in the fuel system. repair by dumping old fuel from tank, then remove float bowl on carb. this will drain remaining fuel in carb and give you acess to the main jet as well. Main jet will be located in the protruding part of the carb that sets as the lowest part in the float bowl. locate the jet either on the side of this protruding area or set into the bottom of the protruding area. use a thin wire like a guitar string to run thru the small hole in the center of the jet. then squirt a little wd-40 thru the hole and check visually to make sure the jet is clear. there also could be a problem with the float or needle valve that allows fuel to enter the carb and regulate the fuel level in the float bowl part of the carb. check this by letting the float drop while bowl is removed and gas should trickle down from the needle valve, if it does, then hold the float to the top of its travel but do not force it beyond the stop. fuel should now stop trickling from the needle valve. if it does not stop, then you probably have a little debris clogging the needle valve preventing it from closing completely. this usually causes a flooding condition. By your description, this is not the problem as your mower slound as it is starving for fuel. if no gas flow from needle valve while float is at the bottom of its travel, then you may have a clog in the fuel line, filter or in the tank where the fuel line connects to it. remove fuel line from carb and fuel should flow freely from this hose. if not, check for clog in the fuel line-fuel filter system. hope this helps! oh y, the last steps require a little fresh gas in the tank!

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Getting fuel in oil on 19hp b&s motor. Cleaned carb and drained oil, fresh oil and started motor, motor ran for 3 or 4 minutes then had to use a little choke to keep running and then it started...


How long did it take to do this job..did you clean the the carb first...then the oil or vise versa...the reason I as is ma y if these motors are equipped with an electric valve on the carb that go bad or stuck allowing the gas to continue flowing after shut down eventually in the intake valves and into the crankcase...causing smoke and high crankcase pressure and out the carb and exhaust...no use changing it WILL happen again..the fix is simple put an inline gas shut off and shut it off if only shut down for minutes...happened to my 18 horse Briggs...just shut it off every time you turn the engine off..Hope this helps..good luck..

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Gas is so poorly refined these days, Youll notice the fuel stabilizer says it is only good for about 30 days. although i cant give specific instructions on how to clean out the clogged jet in your carb, if it runs on starting fluid, a clogged jet is deffinately your problem. start with the float bowl make sure it has clean fuel in it and the primary jet is usually in the bolt that holds the bowl on make sure its clean and if the float hanging down opens the needle valve and fuel flows your good to that point. if the engine still wont run, or only runs with the choke on. get some carb cleaner spray and go at it, make sure you can blow through every port and jet, BUT WATCH YOUR EYES you never know where that stuff is going to exit.

next year winterize it, drain the fuel and run it till it dies.
or i like to winterize my engines by replacing the regular fuel with a little bit of aviation fuel as that stuff can sit for years, just dont operate or mow for more than 2 or 3 minutes on it.

Good luck

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With starting fluid, it runs, so this means spark and compression and valves closing properly. You mention gas flow, so gasolene is getting to the carb. This would then leave the problem being in the carb if indeed fuel is present at the carb. If you take apart the carb right now, is there fuel in the bowel? Or, remove the bottom screw on the carb, does gas flow out? Does it flow continuously or does it quit? This will indicate if the float valve is indeed opening. The only thing if you have fuel in the bowel and no start, even with the choke closed, is that the main jet must be plugged. Had the unit been sitting for quite a while with gasolene in it? Gas can "varnish" after a few months and this can cause plugging of the jets and other passages. How old is the gas in the unit? Old gas won't burn in the engine and this can also be a problem. Drain the tank, and carb, put some new gas in the unit and try it. You might have to take the carb apart again and use some carb cleaner to blow the **** out of all the carb passages. This should get it going again. Now, most important, when you get it running again, you need to adjust the engine speed so that you do not burn out any electrical equipment. If you have access to a frequency meter, plug it into the 120 volt outlet on the generator and adjust the speed so that the frequency with no load is 62 - 63 hz. This will allow the generator to drop to 60 hz under load. The adjustment is a 5/16 nut, right side of the upper engine, facing you.

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Your carbs main jet is most likely blocked. When the throttle goes off the idle jet to the main jet there isnt enough fuel flow and the engine stalls.

You need to removed the main jet and run a small piece of wire through the main jet to clear it. This is a good time to look at the inside of the float bowl to see if you have excessive water, rust or dirt accumulating that is a sign you should clean and drain the fuel tank and lines as well. The main jet is actually the bolt that holds the fuel bowl on the bottom of the carb! You need to look very close at the jet near the top of the threads to see the little whole there and clean it. A wire brush to clean off the threads and fine piece of wire strand to clean the hole will do the trick!

If you dont have a bowl type carb you will need to remove the carb from the fuel tank and locate and clean the inlet screen and main jet and then remove the fuel tank and clean it out too.

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My lawn mower starts, but won't stay running. I just used it a few days ago. tryed changing spark plug. checked oil, and full tank of gas


After you check airflow (i.e. cleaning up the air filter), check fuel flow.

I'm assuming the gas is clean and fresh.

Is the gas flowing from the tank?
Is the gas getting into the carb?

If yes, then the next step is to remove the carb.
Check the diaphram between the carb and the tank, this acts as your fuel pump. Is this diaphram in good condition? If not replace it.

While the carb is removed, clean all the little ports (jets) into the carb with WD-40 or carb spray-on carb/choke cleaner (automotive section of your local auto store). Blow it dry with compressed air (canned or from a air compressor). Replace any gasket so the carb doesn't have seepage when reinstalled.

It may sound a bit daunting, but its an easy job and may stores carry the necessary parts. Try WalMart, or auto stores, if they don't then a good hardware store should. Or, a lawn mower shop should have it.

Good luck, I'm rebuilding doing the same thing to one of my mowers this week. Piece of cake.

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Yes, the jet can be cleaned, along with any other small portals in the carb. Use a Den Tek Brush,(http://www.drugstore.com/products/prod.asp?pid=165357&catid=1152). They are great for this job!

Jim

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