I have had several of the problems that you posted about. The amp has worked for years until the other day when I tried to turn it on and the power went out. I have replaced the fuse with three new ones and each time it keeps blowing instanly. I don't know what else to do about it. Thanks for all the help that I have read already.
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Re: No Power and Blown Fuse
This often indicates either a power supply problem or shorted output transistors. In either case, the unit will require replacement parts. If you have a multi-meter that can check diodes, check the rectifier diodes or bridge rectifier in the power supply first. If those are OK, next check the output transistors. If you don't have access to the meter, expect a parts cost in the $15-$25 range plus the local labor rate for the repair. This should not be a difficult repair for any shop that does audio repair.
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Hi u don't mention make or model ...u could have damaged more than a fuse u might have damaged the control box or more ???? Try fitting new batteries & then u can try & find out what the problem is .good luck
I see your question here all day & no one will answer I don't know which fuse,so check them all I will say the odds of a blown fuse are not likely & no blown fuse is ever replaced until the cause is found I would suspect you have a dirty trans solenoid for 5th or 6th gear, whatever is in there or lock-up You will need to remove the trans pan to replace Not that hard to do,just need to find the problem I would start with a ride, you driving & a mechanic with a scan tool along to look data If you like the diagnoses, do the fix yourself While not the problem, trans fluid gets changed, not flushed or you get the current problem,done every 3 years on ALL your vehicles
The fuse protects the power supply. The power amps have failed. The usual cause is an arc between layers of the multi-layer circuit board. The labor to repair the power amp module is extensive. I have repaired several.
You can find new amp modules and I would purchase a new one and drop into your unit. The amp module is an HCA2400.
There is probably $15 of parts blown in each side of the power amp and it takes about 6 hours to repair. One has to grind out the burned area (internal layers not necessarily visible on surface) and re-insulate and then install jumper wires to replace those taken out.
Each side of the amp will likely take out 3 switching MOSFET transistors and often a Zener diode. Sometimes a low resistance metering resistor will be fried with smoky residue underneath the board. When this happens two small surface mounted resistors will be blown open. Great care has to be taken when insulating the board damage and replacement of the blown circuit traces.
You can find HCA2400 power amp module replacements for about $175 online.
Use of the unit as an unpowered mixer is a bit dangerous as if arc re-establishes it can fry the power supply taking out two very expensive IGBT's and many other components. If the mixer still works, then your whole power supply is still OK.
My daughter used her Equinox to jump another vehicle, afterwards the steering was stiff and the service stabilitrack light was on. The 80 amp fuse (GM part number 2268-9708) was blown.
The real reason for the blown fuse was that she did not connect the jumper cables to the battery but rather across the 80 amp fuse. The cover over the fuse box has a red + sign on it and thus she thought it was the battery. The battery is harder to get to, as it has an electronics module mounted on top of the battery cover. The battery is immediately forward of the fuse box. I wonder how many others have blown the fuse because of incorrectly connected jumper cables.....
BIG problem! You should NOT have replaced the fuse as additional damage has been done. I repaired a PMP5000 and I can tell you likely what you will find: The smoke and smell came from two power resistors that are part of the soft start circuit that now are toast. You will likely find several components in the main portion of the power supply that are toast. These will include transistors, resistors, diodes, and probably the small 8 pin switching regulator chip. There is a small power supply that comes on first which enables a relay that shorts out those soft start resistors AFTER the power amplifier BALANCES and normalizes.
The unit I repaired had severe damage due to arc-over at one power amp section. Three power transistors were destroyed there and board traces and charring had to be handled in that section.
The repaired unit had to be brought up with a light bulb in series with the line power cord to prevent further damage until all bad parts were discovered and repaired. You will need to take the unit to a shop that is expperienced with the product. The repair cost MAY be pretty high.
the output is blown. It is in need of service.
There are many different ways that an amp can fail but the two most common failures are shorted output transistors and blown power supply transistors (< those are not blown). There are several types of protection circuits in amplifiers. The most common are over-current and thermal. The over-current protection is supposed to protect the output transistors. Sometimes it doesn't work well enough to prevent the failure of the output transistors but it will work well enough to shut the supply down before the power supply FETs are destroyed. If the amp remains in protect mode, goes into protect mode or blows the fuse as soon as the remote voltage is applied, shorted output transistors are almost certainly the cause.
solidus- Your amp is going into protection mode, try disconnecting the sub and see if the power will stay on then.If yhe power stays on,it is your sub-blown or shorted ect. But if it does the same as before,its to the repair shop. cooltek Mar,4/08
IF that player is new, take it back. I have the same problem on my daughters, but it worked fine until one day suddenly no power. I took it apart and found a fuse inside. I am trying to find a replacement fuse to see if that works. I had a stereo amp once that did the same thing and I replaced the fuse inside and all was well. Hope this is the same thing.
If you hear a faint sound I doubt if a fuse is blown?? never Know though. You have to have and know how to use a DVM or muti-meter to trouble shoot solid state electronics, as well as know how to solder and check transistors and other electronic parts. There wouldnt be one particular thing that could cause your problem. There could be a several things wrong as transistors and ICs tend to snowball and short out or open up with power surges. If you want , first get a schematic, but if you dont know how to read one stop right here and save your money and upgrade to a shiney new stereo system.. Good Luck