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Re: glue holding head mount to top tube failed
I had a similar problem with my Giottos carbon fibor monopod, but it was still under warranty so they just replaced it. I'd still give contacting the company that handles Giottos in the US a note and ask them to take care of it, or if not, a recommendation.
There is an email address on this page. They were quite helpful when I had my problem. It cost me shipping to send the old one back and I had a new one in under a week from the time I sent if off.
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Here is a quick guide to taking apart your rio and re-gluing the scroll wheel.
This is the most common part to break on the rio carbon but is reasonably easy to fix.
How to disassemble a Rio Carbon:
First take off the front plate (you may want to warm it up, not fry it, with a hairdryer to make the removal easier.
Then you will see near the bottom there are two holes
which if you get a very small screwdriver then you can unclip 2 of the
clips holding the back plate on.
Then pry your screwdriver between the back of your rio
and the rubber and lever the back off slightly (you may want to get a
cocktail stick/match stick etc. to keep this open) then on each side
you should see two more metal clips holding the back plate on. Lever
each of these clips and the back plate should pop off - don't force it
or you might break the plastic.
Then you will be able to see at the top left your scroll wheel (or where it should be!)
How to attach the scroll wheel:
The scroll wheel was originally attached on by two connections which you should b able to see - these were the weakest joints on your player and kind of lets rio down because the rest of the player is great in my opinion even though it does break a lot.
basically all you have to do is glue these back on...
Place a little epoxy glue on the points of contact (you can use super glue or a hard plastic adhesive but often they are too brittle so if you drop it again it will almost definitely break)
1. Slide the metal disc off the base of the rear view mirror assemble. For newer models of cars the metal plate may have to be removed with a properly sized Allen wrench. These are L shaped wrenches that are designed to remove hex head screws and can be purchased at any hardware store. While there you should also pick up a razor blade scraper and some masking tape. 2. Head to your local Schuck's or other automotive store and purchase a rear view mirror adhesive kit for around $3. This super strong adhesive is a two part system that comes with a tube of glue and a vial of accelerant. 3. From the outside of the car, use masking tape to mark the area where the old glue adhesive still remains. 4. From the inside, scrape off whatever is left of the glue residual. 5. Since this glue only works in temperatures of 60 or above, you will have to make special provisions when the weather is cold. The car should be placed in a warmed garage or facing the sunlight. A blow dryer can also be used to heat up the windshield, although don't hold it too close to avoid cracking the glass. 6. Once the glue has been scraped off the windshield, wipe down the area with rubbing alcohol. The metal plate should also be wiped down with alcohol. 7. Apply the accelerant directly to the mounting area on the windshield. Allow to let dry 5 minutes. In the meantime, apply the accelerant to the flat part of the base plate as well and let dry. 8. Slather on the adhesive on the back of base plate and press it onto the glass. Hold in place for about 2 minutes until the glue begins to set up. Let the glue dry overnight before reattaching the rear view mirror.
There are two main pieces to the front panel for the GFDN240EL1WW dryer-- the plastic panel and the circuit board. The actual replacement part is: Control Panel WE19M1687. The panel can be purchased for from places like partselect.com or repairclinic.com or Amazon or even EBay, etc. for $100-$200+.
The power button is just a piece of plastic mounted to another piece of plastic; it is not electronic. When pushed, it presses against the circuit board, which then turns the unit on/off. When the power button breaks, it typically means the little plastic button has broken off from the plastic panel. Most likely, the problem is the mount point for the button and the button is actually re-usable.
A cheaper quick-fix is to:
Remove top screw from back of the front panel
Remove main front knob from the panel
Remove screw from behind the front knob
Grab both sides of the front panel and push/pull up to remove the panel
Disconnect the block connector (power) from the circuit board after removing the panel
Locate the power button and mounting position
Inspect to see if it looks like you can glue the button back into place
Buy a small tube of loctite Stik'n Seal Ultra Universal Adhesive
Put some Stik'n Seal on the button mounting point for the power button (be generous)
Press the button onto the mounting point and hold for a few minutes
Add more Stik'n Seal around the edges of the mounting point and the button mount after you have held the button in place long enough so that it sticks
Let the whole thing dry for several hours (instructions on the adhesive say 24hrs
If you are worried about the button staying seated while the adhesive sets, you can always try tape it into place
When dry, replace the front panel by reversing the steps above used to remove the panel: connect the power block, slide the panel back into place, replace the front screw and knob, replace the top screw in the back of the panel
There is a small set screw that holds the mirror to the small metal button. Most vehicles use a small Phillips screw but some use a Hex Key Wrench (Allen Wrench) type screw. Slide the mirror off the button. Make sure not to remove the glue before you put the button back on. Trace around the glue with a grease pencil on the outside of the windshield before you remove it. So you know exactly where to replace the button. You can buy a Rear View Mirror Adhesive Kit for around five dollars.
The valve is located just above where the engine and transmission seam meets. Removal requires the airbox be removed. There is the metal exhaust gas tube with 2 8mm bolts and a fiber gasket. The EGR mounts to the cylinder head with 2 10mm bolts and a metal gasket. There are 2 vacuum lines that go to the control solenoid, a black plastic pod moounted under the throttle body. It clips into the TB mounting bracket, and has a 3rd vacuum supply line and 1 electrical connector.
They changed it. You have to slide the mounting bracket out the bottom of the mirror case.It's a tight fit but the mirror assembly will slide off, toward the roof. Once you have it off you will see a small slot on the bottom of the mounting bracket. Slide a small screwdriver in the slot and push toward the mounting plate (windshield). The plate that goes on the windshield should pop off. Hope this helps.
Remove the top free door hinge cover and disconnect the plug there . This removes all power to the door . Remove the grill inside the dispensor , and remove the 2 screws at the bottom , holding the dispensor cover on . Lift the cover to remove , and disconnect the receptical , freeing the front . Next , remove the 4 screws holding the white dispensor switch mount , and slide out . Remove the screw holding the water fitting assembly .
Remove the bottom refrig kick plate . Follow the tube about 6 " to a connector , and disconnect the connector . The plastic compression nut , slips off the tubing after disconnecting .
Pull the dispensor tube , up thru the door from the top . Using the new tube with spout , pt number 4388152 . Insert the new tube into the hole from the top , and feed down , thru the door . Re-assemble in reverse .
Most mirror's have a small set screw holding them on the mounting plate, usually an allen head. You will need to get a mirror installation kit (glue) from a parts store. Most "chain" stores should carry them. What ever you do, DO NOT USE SUPER GLUE. The package should have clear instructions, just follow them and you should be fine.