Relay is clicking from the circuitboard(12v-832a-1cs-s)
I am a certified electronics tech, I have found that by unhooking a connector by the compressor(4 wires on one,yellow,white,blue and red 3 wires on other yellow,white and red, this is a male to female connector) the relay quits tripping. I did not see the compressor fan engage however. I can reconnect the connector and the relay is fine unless I unplug the AC and plug back in, the problem returns.
any suggestions are appreciated! also anyone know what the 3 wires go to, any mods to the mother board.
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Re: relay is clicking from the...
When you unplug the unit, the compressor needs to equalize the pressure inside before it can be plugged back in. If you plug it beack in too soon, the compressor will not start untill this pressure is equalized. Sometimes compressors get harder and harder to start as they get older and it gets harder for the start relay to start the compressor. I am not a electronics tech but it may be that the compressor is just hard to start and my need a hardstart kit.
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Could be open contacts on the Relay.
A Relay is simply a set of contacts actuated by an electromagnet coil.
A relay can click but it doesn't mean the internal contacts are closing.
Is there one relay for left side and another for right?
Use a 12v test light or Multimeter on 12 volts to trace the power.
Look at the connectors on the base of the Relay.
Get a pin out diagram of that relay of the Internet.
2 pins for actuation. Gnd & +12v.
2 Switch contact pins.
Short the "contacts" switch pins together to simulate Relay closing its Contacts.
Is there Battery 12v at one of the relay socket "contacts" pins?
Use a jumper lead from Battery + to that relay wire.
Are you getting the ignition activated voltage to the relay? If you are, and you can jump across the relay to turn on the pump, I would say your relay is defective. If you know the relay pins for the ignition input and ground, you should be able to test it outside its plug in socket. You should hear it click when +12V and ground are applied to the proper pins/connectors for the ignition voltage. An ohm meter could be put across the supply +12V and fuel pump pins/connectors to really check the operation. If you think your relay is good. I would start checking for a bad +12V connection for your ignition supply, as well as the +12V that is switched through the relay. And the grounds to all. Use some contact cleaner on relay pins and socket. Ignition switch contacts can cause issues too. If it stays broke at least it should be easier to find than something that is intermittent. Based on what you stated, most of your troubleshooting should be at the relay socket (knowing which connectors do what) to isolate the issue to the relay, your ignition voltage, or your fuel pump voltage. After that it is knowing which step to take next.
Honestly, there simply not much difficulty to the way headlights are wired on any vehicle. Standard headlights receive positive 12v from the headlight switch directly (or through a relay, if you have automatic headlights), and the switch receives power through the fuse block from the battery. When you turn the headlight switch on, you should get 12v at the input connector to your headlights. If the headlight connector is not receiving +12v at the connector when you turn the headlight switch on, check the fuse, the switch, and the relay. If the headlight assembly is receiving +12v at the connector, check the bulb. If the bulb tests good with an ohmmeter, check for a broken ground wire. That is simply all there is.
See if the oil pressure switch has 3 prongs. If so and it's leaking oil, that may be the problem. I can't recall what year they stopped doing that switch but my '89 had it. Aside from that, check the fuel pump relay. It can click and still not supply power to the pump.
I copied this from my GM service manual for 1982 6.2 diesel.
1. If the glow plug relay is not clicking on and off then turn the ignition to the RUN position and connect a 12V test light to ground and touch the pink/black wire in the glow plug relay connector.
2. If the light is off repair the open cicuit in the pink/black wire to the splice.If the light is on then touch the light blue at the glow plug relay connector.
3. If the light is off replace the glow plug relay. If the light is on, disconnect the connection at the thermal controller and touch the black wire in the connector.
4. If the light is off, repair the open circuit in the light blue wire from the thermal controller to the glow plug relay. If the light is on repair open circuit in black wire back to a splice. If no trouble is found replace the controller.
You should also get your hands on this Haynes book. Diesel Engine Repair Manual, part # 10330. Excellent coverage on the 6.2 and 6.5. In it, they say that early 82\'s have a hole at the number 2 hole on the pin connector of the wire harness for the thermal controller. this allows dirt in there and corrodes the pins. Remove the connector and clean thoroughly the pin area on the connection and controller. Seal the hole with some silicone. If things are still acting up, replace the wire harness connector.
The following picture will definitely help you to install new power supply.
The 4 pin CPU power connector is using in most of the desktop motherboard. If your motherboard is gaming type or workstation board you need to connect 8pin CPU power connector. Molex connectors are using to power up DVD Drives and HDDs. In New model power supply instead of molex connector SATA Power connectors are coming.
I had the same exact problem, here is what someone else suggested I do:
I had a problem with no audio and I recently found the fix. When thesub still worked and you turn it on you hear one relay click and thenabout 5 seconds later a second relay clicks and the audio comes on. Theproblem I had lies with that second relay. When you take the case apartthere are 4 circuit boards. The big board with the two big bluecapacitors is the main board. Well next to the two blue capacitors is ablue relay. That relay had a pin that came un-soldered from the circuitboard. I re-soldered that pin and the sub works just like new.
Ok, What you need todo, IF the internal circuitboard of the usb memory is still intact, you will need to solder the 4 usb connector pins onto the usb circuitboard of the usb memory.
This is not your device but you should get the idea, you need to solder those 4 connectors back into place, I marked them with red boxes, if the circuitboard is cracked or otherwise damaged, it may be best to give up. Or take it to a electronics repair man, but if the circuitboard is cracked and there are no good connection points the repair will be very difficult but not impossible.
you need to take the plastic cover off from the usb memory and inspect how the board is, you could even send me a picture here by using the attach picture button.