Question about GE Refrigerators
The defrost cycle is not happening like it should, that's what causes the block of ice (and poor air flow). If you have all that defrosted look at the defrost bi-metal, it usually is a small round disk with a couple wires coming out of it and it's clipped on the coils. When it's cold enough, it passes electricity to the heat elements, when it gets hot enough it "opens" and kills power to the heat elements. If that is bad (swollen cracked or bloated) and not passing electricity to the elements that's the problem. Another item would be the defrost timer itself, if it doesn't work (no clock motor turning) then it will never go into defrost. And the last and usually least expected failure would be the heat element themselves not working
Posted on Oct 09, 2007
SOURCE: First of all we had
Icemakers need about 40 psi to fill properly. Make sure the water supply valve is turned on to the unit. This valve is usually located under the kitchen sink and has a 1/4 inch copper line running from it to the refrigerator. Turn it counter-clockwise to make sure the valve is open. Check that the plastic fill tube hasn't come out of the back of the refrigerator. Occasionally, this fill tube may freeze. The way to check on the tube is to remove the icemaker and then look at the fill tube. If it is frozen, you will probably need to replace the water fill valve. Verify that the icemaker is plugged in and turned on. The wire arm will be in the down position if it is on.
If there is water to the icemaker but not to the water dispenser, check the dispenser tank. If it is frozen, you can turn the thermostat up to increase the air circulation in the refrigerator. This ought to help thaw the tank.
Refrigerators typically make a lot of sounds when they operate. The cause of the problem can usually be narrowed down once you determine where the sound is coming from. If you hear something coming from the bottom, the source is probably somewhere else. There is not much under a refrigerator to make noise. You may hear noise coming through this area of the fridge, but it is probably originating in the back of the refrigerator.
Regarding any water sounds, refrigerators have a drip pan behind the kick plate. During a defrost cycle, melt-water from the freezer ice typically drains through a tube and down the back of the refrigerator into the drip pan. You may hear water dripping into it or it may rattle. Usually evaporation empties the drip pan, but you can remove it and empty it if there is a lot of liquid in it. If it rattles, you can check the supports holding the pan to make sure they haven't been damaged, you can replace the pan, or you can try to secure it with tape. Another water flow sound would be if you have a built-in icemaker. You may hear the water flowing into the
If the noise is coming from the back, there are a few things that could be causing the problem. If the unit seems louder when the compressor starts, it's probably a normal sound. The compressor starts with a high pressure, but as the pressure balances, the noise should become normalized. The compressor is in a black case with no visible moving parts. It's located at the back of the refrigerator near the bottom and has wires and a bunch of tubes going to it. If it's humming, or making a steady noise, and your refrigerator is still not cooling properly, there could be a problem with one or more various components. If the compressor is making noise, there's probably no repairing it. You'll have to replace it. This is often a very costly job and needs to be done by someone with the necessary EPA certification to work on sealed systems.
You can usually hear air rushing, or a swooshing sound from the condenser fan motor and blade. If it sounds abnormal or different than usual, check for dirt or dust on the blade and fan motor. If this area is dirty, make sure the power is off and wipe it with a clean towel. If the fan blade is metal, make sure that it is not hitting anything and that it is attached securely to the motor. If the noise is still coming from the motor, you will need to replace it. The damper door opening and closing may cause a chirping or howling sound.
The defrost timer can also make noises. It usually will make a click when it advances. As the timer gets old, the motor that runs the defrost timer can begin to make noises as well. If the timer motor is making a loud sound, then you should replace the entire timer. Noises related to the defrost timer are: snapping, crackling, or popping sounds. This is most likely caused by the defrost heater getting warm, and cold water dripping onto it. You may also hear some metallic sounding expansion or contraction creaks as the coils warm or get cool.
Other clicking or snapping sounds may be caused by the water valve opening to fill the ice cube tray. This valve is operated by a solenoid, and most solenoids make a snap sound as they open and close.
If you notice a sound coming from the freezer, you'll want to check the evaporator fan motor. This is the fan that circulates air through all parts of the refrigerator and freezer. When the compressor is running, this fan should run as well. The fan blows the air over the evaporator coils to cool it. As the fan gets older and worn out, the moving pieces in the fan motor can start to make strange noises. When you hear the noise, quickly open the freezer door and manually press the door switch. If the noise is louder, then the motor is causing your problem. The motors are not repairable, you just replace the entire unit.
Vibrating noises are often caused by dishes or other containers vibrating on a shelf inside. You can move the dishes around to see if that helps. Other times the vibrations may be caused by something on top of the refrigerator. These items could be touching and rattling around on top of the refrigerator. Verify that the refrigerator is not touching any nearby walls or counters.
A refrigerator or freezer that doesn't cool well enough may have a problem with its evaporator coils, condenser, or condenser fan motor. Frost build-up on evaporator coils, or condenser coils that are covered with dirt, dust, or lint can reduce how well a refrigerator can cool. If you notice ice getting thicker on the inside walls, inside bottom, or inside ceiling of the freezer, you have what is called a frost build-up. The problem is either with warm, moist air getting in through an old inefficient door gasket or the defrost system.
Self-defrosting refrigerators have coils and a cooling fan that need to be cleaned regularly. If the coils get coated with any contaminants, they may not cool the refrigerator properly. The coils are usually thin and black and they go through fins that dissipate heat, just like a car's radiator. They are located behind the lower kick-panel or on the back of the refrigerator. To clean them, turn the power off and use this condenser coil cleaning brush, or this condenser coil cleaning brush, and your vacuum cleaner. Even if your coils are below the refrigerator, you won't be able to get to all the condenser coils from the front, so it's a good idea to pull the refrigerator out and clean the coils from the front and the rear of the refrigerator. Give the fan a dusting as well. Sometimes other things can be the reason behind poor cooling, like the condenser fan motor. Anytime the freezer fan is running, the condenser fan should also be running.
A frost build-up inside the refrigerator usually means that there is a problem in the self-defrost system. You may even have damaged door gaskets. When you open the refrigerator door, you also let in a blast of warm, often humid air. This moisture usually freezes onto the evaporator coils immediately. Self-defrost refrigerators are supposed to self-defrost between two and four times out of every 24 hour time-frame. They basically turn off for a few minutes several times a day. A defrost heater kicks on to melt any frost build-up on these coils, which allows the frost and ice to melt, then it drains off to the pan underneath most refrigerators. Unfortunately, when a defrost component fails, too much frost builds up on the evaporator coils. When this happens, the circulating fan can't draw air over these coils. With no air flow over the evaporator coils, the refrigerator compartment will lose its cool.
To determine if the self defrost system is faulty, it's best to remove all the food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn your thermostat to the Off setting, and just leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours, and let the refrigerator defrost. Keep an eye out for an overflow of water from the drip pan on the bottom of the refrigerator.
After everything has completely melted away, set the thermostat back to a regular setting. If your refrigerator starts operating properly, the symptoms lead to there being a problem with one of three other components in the self-defrosting system, the defrost heater, the defrost timer, or the defrost thermostat.
If, after testing these components, the refrigerator still doesn't get your foods cool, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level and you will need to contact a professional appliance repair person.
Would be glad to know if this information was helpful to you. All the best maddy100 Elect_Comp
Posted on Sep 04, 2011
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