Dishwasher will not run

Sounds like you have a stuck relay (or shorted triac) on the main control board, which means you will have to replace the control board.

My whirlpool dishwasher gold GU2475XTVQ0 had rapid blinking lights that started with the "4 Hour Delay" LED and changed to others when other buttons were pressed. The machine would not run. I followed the instructions located behind the kick panel and verified the keypad was the issue and not the control circuit by elimination.
The big surprise for me was that when I used a straight pin to resistance check all of the buttons, they checked out OK. I reconnected the 14 pin connector (P1) to the control and found that the buttons/LEDs were behaving correctly! I believe that pushing the straight pin into the 14 pin connector removed any corrosion in the 10 year old device and permitted the keypad to communicate with the control again.
I reassembled the dishwasher door and it ran with no problems. I was ready to replace the keypad for $150, but didn't have to!

My whirlpool dishwasher gold GU2475XTVQ0 had rapid blinking lights that started with the "4 Hour Delay" LED and changed to others when other buttons were pressed. The machine would not run. I followed the instructions located behind the kick panel and verified the keypad was the issue and not the control circuit by elimination.
The big surprise for me was that when I used a straight pin to resistance check all of the buttons, they checked out OK. I reconnected the 14 pin connector (P1) to the control and found that the buttons/LEDs were behaving correctly! I believe that pushing the straight pin into the 14 pin connector removed any corrosion in the 10 year old device and permitted the keypad to communicate with the control again.
I reassembled the dishwasher door and it ran with no problems. I was ready to replace the keypad for $150, but didn't have to! This may still be the problem after you replaced the control board.

There is a trouble shooting document behind the kick panel at the bottom of the machine. Follow the steps to determine which component is at fault, but it may be corrosion in the low voltage connector.
My whirlpool dishwasher gold GU2475XTVQ0 had rapid blinking lights that started with the "4 Hour Delay" LED and changed to others when other buttons were pressed. The machine would not run. I followed the instructions located behind the kick panel and verified the keypad was the issue and not the control circuit by elimination.
The big surprise for me was that when I used a straight pin to resistance check all of the buttons, they checked out OK. I reconnected the 14 pin connector (P1) to the control and found that the buttons/LEDs were behaving correctly! I believe that pushing the straight pin into the 14 pin connector removed any corrosion in the 10 year old device and permitted the keypad to communicate with the control again.
I reassembled the dishwasher door and it ran with no problems. I was ready to replace the keypad for $150, but didn't have to!

KITCHENAID DISHWASHER REBOOT - YouTube

? 4:17
www.youtube.com/watch?v=XJnzzXJcOV4
Sep 17, 2012 - Uploaded by DIYAPPLIANCEREPAIR How to reboot your Kitchenaid, Whirlpool, Kenmore by Whirlpool dishwashers control board. ... Up next. Dishwasher Repair will notstart - Repair & Diagnostc - Kitchenaid - Whirlpool ... Kenmore Elite Dishwasher blinking light Control Board FIX - Duration: 1:37. by ... Dishwasher Buttons Not Working?

Run the dishwasher through a test mode


Test Mode


Make sure the appliance is empty of water before running Diagnostics as it does not pump out before starting to fill and therefore you could overfill the appliance.
Open the door and set the program to the first program. (Normally rinse).
Turn the power off.
Press and hold the start button and while holding turn the power on.
After a little while the start button will flash, release the button.
Press the start button once and close the dishwasher door.
The machine will now run through a diagnostic routine.
Should take about 20 mins.
The machine will stop during diagnostics if an error is found and will display the error code. If no error is found it will complete the diagnostics and end the programme.

To exit diagnostics at any time just press and hold the start button till the programme is cancelled
Error codes


F1. Single flash. NTC Break. NTC open circuit/short circuit or ambient temperature less than 3 Celcius

F2. 2 Flashes. Water leakage. Floater switch LS6 in drip tray has switched.

F3. 3 Flashes. Heating system defect. Heater or relay on control board defect. Chack also cabling.

F4. 4 Flashes. Draining failure. Drain pump, control board OWI or water indicator defect.

F5. 5 Flashes. Sprayarm Blocked (not present on VBL version. On 1 digit display will show as F and flashing start led).

F6. 6 Flashes. Water valve (WV1) is switched on but flow meter (FM) senses no impulses (less than 10 impulses in 10 secs) and the water indicator (WI) is at a low level
Water Valve Closed. Water inlet hose blocked.
Water inlet valve (WV1) defective. Flow meter (FM) defective (leads to FM failure)

F7. 7 Flashes. Flow meter failure. Flow meter defect. Water inlet valve defect or water inlet hose blocked.

F8. 8 Flashes. Water level failure. Sieve strongly dirty or big amount of foam inside to less water.

F9. 9 Flashes. Continuously Water Inlet. Water inlet valve mechanically not closed or control board defect.

FA. 11 Flashes. OWI failure. Dirty OWI lens. OWI defect or control board defect. Check cabling.

FB. 12 Flashes. Motorised Diverter Valve

FC. 13 Flashes. Water Hardness Sensor Failure

A fault with no fault code indication = faulty module

Read more: http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=200838#ixzz2zKhYFHxt

OK I am not an expert but I have spent the last two weeks learning about and fixing my dishwasher! Hopefully I can save you a headache. Try the following:

* Try turning off the switch for a longer period of time - 10-15 minutes. This may reset your washer.
* If any of your button lights come on but a regular cycle will not start, try running diagnostic/reset cycles by pressing heated dry -normal- heated dry or heated dry-sanitize-heated dry in sequence. If the cycles run fine, you will rule out a power, latch, motor/drying issue. It also may (hopefully) reset your system.
* If your buttons do not light up or normal function still does not resume after the reset, make sure your power (from the breaker box) is turned off and unscrew (with a star-shaped screwdriver bit - check your car emergency kit/toolbox, you may find you have it) and open the front button control panel and check all connections. Try carefully unplugging and replugging wires and look for any corrosion/moisture on the circuit board.
* If that does not work, test the circuit board by unplugging the green ribbon cable from the control panel, reassembling with the ribbon cable unplugged, flipping your circuit back on and then closing the dishwasher door. If the drain motor runs, it will show you that there is power getting into the machine and that there is still some function with the circuit board. Although it doesn't rule out the circuit board completely, it will point to the possibility of a control (button) panel issue and you may try replacing that. If the drain test does NOT run, it may be the circuit board that needs to be replaced.

There may be some additional instructions specific to your model hidden in an envelope behind the kickplate of your washer.

Hopefully some of that helps!

Start with the basics: Check the status of the breaker and the electrical connections under the toe kick panel. If the unitis getting power, You may want to call the dishwasher helpline to see if it is a recalled model. A free replacement of the control panel circuit board is available for many of these, but if the power switch is the culprit, you will need to buy a replacement button.
I have written a guide to help with drainage issues. The helpline number is near the top. It is here. Thanks!

Hi,
On my own dishwasher the cycles are controlled by the temperature - the machine washes until the water reaches a certain temp and then it pumps out and goes on to the next bit of the program. If yours is based on the same principle and isn't heating the water that would explain things.
I wouldn't replace the board yet - I would first try to find out why it isn't heating. It could be the heating element, the relay or the temp sensor (if fitted) at fault.

If you are technically inclined and know enough to delve into the machine safely you could check the heater connections, resistance voltage etc and hope to spot the fault. Let me know what you or the engineer find. D