Will not allways rev up when i strike an arc or use a electric tool used to just not work first couple time at start of work day but now may not work the whole day . getting cold outside high temp yesterday 15 or 20 degreees , did not work at all . turn key switch from auto to high will rev up. put in 50 degree shop this morning to try to figure out would not work but after hour or so in there started working. can you help?
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Re: automactic idle control
Hi there, This sounds like your idle control module has gone bad. Since the machine will rev up to weld speed if you turn the switch to high it can't be that the solenoid has gone bad. Some models of engine driven welders from Miller use a little module, others have the idle circuit built into the control board, can't tell which yours is without a model number. This problem could also indicate a broken current transformer since letting the unit heat up makes things better. I'd use an ohm meter to check the resistance of the CT while it was cold to see if it goes from open circuit to just a few Kohms of resistance when it gets "room temp".
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The problem might be with your rods. It sometimes happen that the flux around te metal becomes soft if the rods were kept where there is a lot of moisture. If that is the case you can 'bake' the rods in the oven to dry it our. The flux must have a lower melting poit than the metal rod so that it can make a cup. The edges of the cup keep the rod away from the metal, allowing the arc to jump. How do you 'strike' an arc? One method is to tick on the metal. A better method is to stike the rod over the metal like you stike a match. This action will give you the 'cup' that you need to start welding. I hope it helps.
If you have a conventional flip lens welding helmet and are prone to getting arc eyes from "peeping" though a gap to strike your arc, try this.<br />
Replace the inside fixed clear lens in your helmet with a yellow perspex lens. The world will appear strange at first through the yellow lens, but the yellow cuts out the ultra violet rays that cause arc eyes. The yellow lens should not be considered a replacement for the dark glass, it is only to shield you from that inadvertant flash when making your strike.
There are four common welding processes utilized through out the work industry today. They are : (Stick Welding or SMAW) Shield Metal Arc Welding (Mig Welding or GMAW) Gas Metal Arc Welding (Tig Welding or TMAW) Tungsten Metal Arc Welding (FCAW) Flux Cored Arc Welding
There are many many welding processes, however these are the most common. The type I am going to discuss briefly today is SMAW. The most economical and cheapest way to learn if welding is for you or not is to start with stick welding. It has the least amount of variables that can go wrong for a beginner. It is not fast paced like mig or flux core, so you have time to watch the molten puddle to see what it is doing and make necessary adjustments to correct the size, shape, and contour of your weld bead. The hardest part for a beginner is to keep the electrode from sticking to the work piece. Thus is the reason it got the name of "stick welding". There are three common ways to strike an arc in SMAW. Tap Start, Scratch Start, and the last is to place the electrode upon your fingers like a pool cue, and shoot the rod like your playing pool.
maybe its your volts too. make sure you are grounded properly and clean from debri's, strike the electrode like a match and keep the arc close to your work-piece. dont go too fast and make sure your not wearing to strong of a lens in your hood. gold lens number 10 are the best for 7018 rods.
check your input power connections on the primary side of the welders transformer, then if its an infinite control welder check that control,otherwise if it's a plug- in selectable amperage check these connections,it sounds like the infinite control is getting dirty and not passing all the current it shows on the control, also double your O.C.V. on the secondary and see if its with-in welder specs
There is a small electronic control board inside the welder that senses current flow and pulls up throttle. It could be the board has a problem, or the throttle solenoid itself. You'll have to do a bit of checking.Check for loose connections or blackened components on the control board.