Question about Hotpoint Refrigerators
I have a hot point model # HSS25GFTCWW, the freezer coils keep freezing up and the fridge gets warm. I read a post about putting a jumper wire onto the control board to turn the defrost heater on. I did that, the heater comes on. Not sure where to go next? Is it a thermistor or a thermostat? Any answers are greatly appreciated.
It could be the thermistor that is out of range or a bad mother board. the thermistor is not expensive. if you have a bad mother board it will do the same thing after you replace the thermistor. make sure you replace the th one attached to the evap coil.
Posted on Apr 09, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Dave, you are throwing me a little here. By jumping line to defrost you should have 120 V. at the heater. J-11 to j-9. Are you measuring voltage? Lets ohm out the circuit. Unplug the refer and disconnect the blue connnector from the main board. Measure between the blue wire on the connector and the orange wire on J-7 pin 9. This is right to the right. You should have approx 22 ohms. If you don't have this the problem lies either in the heater, harness,or defrost T-stat. The Tstat sits on the evaporator, opens at 140 degtrees and closes at 110 degrees. So it should read closed. Let me know how you are doing, Catriver
Posted on Jan 29, 2009
Remove the indide back cover in the freezer. If the cooling fins are iced up, give it a full defrost, Look for any holes to the outside near the pipes. Plug them. Chances are a mouse climbed up and chewed the styrofoam and you're sucking warm room air in and the moisture is freezing (icing) up the coils. Ice in the airflow channel can cause clicking against the fan.
Posted on Mar 19, 2009
You might want to check and make sure the interior fan is working above the evaporator coils. If the fan isn't working the air won't circulate over the evaporator and it will frost over very quickly, and also cold air won't be pushed into the fridge side.
The fan might turn off when the door is open, hold the door switch shut while you check it.
Posted on Apr 27, 2009
In the freezer coil is a defrost heater coil, and a defrost thermostat. You have to expose the freezer coil to find them. If your local dealer can't get parts, I get mine from Repairclinic.com.
Posted on Apr 29, 2009
SOURCE: MSD2456DE - fridge side warm
Forcing the frig into a defrost cycle may not solve this problem long term. The old fridgs had a sliding door which bled cold air from the freezer into the fresh food compartment which you simply adjusted to keep your fresh food compartment at more or less the proper temperature. This simple manually operated sliding door has now been replaced by a motor actuated sliding door that is controlled by the fresh food compartment thermostat. On Whirlpool side by side fridges, the door has, for some reason, been designed so that the sliding door itself will shear or break if the door encounters an obstruction such as ice in the sliding track. Those geniuses designed it so that the door will always fail in the CLOSED position. This means that if this door breaks, the door letting cold air from the freezer into the fresh food compartment will stay closed and not permit any cold air to enter the fresh food compartment and all your food will spoil. The stupid fridge, will continue to run and run because the thermostat in the fresh food compartment will continually call for more cold air, which is just not available due to the broken door. Eventually, the freezer coils will completely ice up and you will see frost on the outside of the panels that cover the coils. If the door is broken, defrosting the freezer will NOT result in any cooling of the fresh food compartment because the door is closed. To check, use a mirror to see if the door is open. The door is typically on the upper back corner of the fresh food compartment on the freezer side. It will have louvers on it. Using a mirror and a flashlight, you should be able to see if the door is open. If it is closed, using a small screwdriver, you should be able to move it open (unless it's iced up). If you can easily move it open with the screwdriver, the door is definitely broken. At this point you have two alternatives. One is to replace the unit and be very careful about too frequent door openings and overloading the frig with food that is warmer than room temperature. These motor controlled units are not cheap. I should know having bought three of them before getting smarter. The other alternative is to attempt to rebuild and/or repair the sliding door assembly. Dis-assembly is accomplished by carefully cutting off the styrofoam front with a box cutter or something similar. This will expose the door and motor assembly. You can either try and glue another piece of plastic where the readily identifiable broken piece was, or attempt to fabricate a whole new door from a suitable piece of plastic. In any case, finish the job by applying lots of silicone lubricant to the door and door tracks to keep it from sticking again. Simply taping on the styrofoam front is good enough till the next time. I hope this helps you with your problem.
Posted on Sep 04, 2009
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