Question about Bosch WFK 2401

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What to check motor brushes..What size screw driver do I need ?

To take the back cover off. It's the 4 square size..Thanks for any info

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Removing the back panel on my WFK2401 requires two different drive tips, a Phillips P2 and a Torx T30.

Posted on Dec 13, 2008

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I need help to replace my brushes on a makita 9553NB 4 inch angle grinder the old model i used to have had easy access.. coin sized slots on the handle that you simply uncsrew to reveal the brushes. my...


first unplug the tool, next on the backside you will notice a screw, remove it and slide the cover back to expose the backside of the motor. gently move the springs that hold the brushes tight to the side and remove the brushes and replace. Make sure to replace the springs and then slide the cover back into place and replace the screw and that should take care of your problem.

Feb 18, 2011 | Makita 9553NB 4" Angle Grinder

1 Answer

My machine hotpoint WMA54 takes the water but the drum does not turn, what could be the problem? thanks


Could be motor brushes in need of replacement.
To check them, remove lower rear cover of washer.
Unplug motor and remove earth wire, remove drive belt.
Undo 2 screws securing motor to drum, and lever motor off
the mounts
Replace brushes if less than 3 or 4 mm long.
If brushes o/k, then could be control board problem.
Check all connections between module and motor.
Please rate my solutioin.
Thankyou..

Feb 01, 2010 | Hotpoint WMA54 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

My dyson dc14 has a strong burning smell


A DC 14 has two belts - one that connects the motor ourput to the clutch mechanism (the dial that lets you turn off the brush rotation completely is part of the clutch mechanism), and another that connects the clutch to the brush bar.
Unfortuneatley, the one that connects the motor to the clutch is hidden under a plastic cover so is very difficult to check.
With the machine running, and NOT in the upright position (i.e. as if you were vacuuming a floor), make sure the brush bar is actually rotating. If it isnt, you need to check both belts and the clutch. Due to the cover being held by three "Torx" screws, one of which is very difficult to get at, this isnt easy.

If the brush bar is rotating, then the burning is an indication the motor is about to fail. Motor replacement is possible depending how good your DIY skills are, and again you'll need "Torx" drivers to dismantle it. Website www.dysonmedic.com has some very good info.

Oct 10, 2009 | Vacuums

1 Answer

I have a Eureka Altima and not sure how to change the belt?


1) Use handle release to lower handle
flat onto floor
2) Remove 2 screws from the front side of
brush roll cover
3) Lift and remove brush roll cover .
4) Remove brush roll and belt. Thread
new belt around motor shaft and
brush roll
5) Insert left end of brush roll first. Make
sure square on brush roll cap is in
place. Pull right side of brush roll to
stretch belt. Secure right end cap into
base.
6) Rotate brush roll 2 turns to center belt.
7) Replace brush roll cover
8) Replace 2 screws

And you can get the maual here.

http://www.eureka.com/service/manuals/80244.pdf

Good luck

Sep 27, 2009 | Eureka Altima Upright Vacuum Model 2996AVS...

7 Answers

My Hoover steam vac spin scrub model 4060-900 brushes are not spinning and I have lost the manual. Any ideas. Thanks. bushteachers@yahoo.com


The problem I found with one a neighbor was tossing out is the bearings in the part that drives the brushes were stuck. Lubing them up solved the problem, but took a bit of work to get into. This also provides a good chance to clean the crud out of bits that usually don't get much attention. I found mine clogged with a fair amount of pet hair.


You'll need a Phillips & Flat Screwdriver, some light machine (3-in-1) oil or Lithium (white) grease, and a lot of patience. Having a pan or something handy to keep all the little bits organized would help.


First remove both the soap & recovery tanks, they'll just get in the way & are designed to be easily removed & replaced for filing/dumping. Be sure to fold the "wings" for the recovery tank in or they'll foul removing the cover later (as will the brush speed button).

The tricky part is getting the Brush Speed knob off. It's held on only by friction, but can be tough to pull for without breaking the plastic stick it's pushed onto.


Remove the brushes. There are 4 blocks between the outer & next in rollers. Put the flat screwdriver between the gray & clear plastic, pushing gently toward the brushes. This pushes a wedge away far enough from a hole in the gray plastic to "unhook" the brush housing from the main body. Once all 4 are clear, the brush assembly should pull out easily.

Remove the 2 big screws in front of the brushes and the one at the back of the clear plastic front of the vacuum bit. The small ones at the extreme front corners hold on the clear plastic front, and can be removed if you want to clean out the vacuum channel, but are not necessary to remove to remove the top.

Toward the back sides of the top are 2 slots that hold this part on. Once the front screws are removed & the front is loose, push the side in gently & you should be able to lift the back of the cover. Push in lift both side, the top should pop right off.

Now I have the top off, holding 2 black & 1 silver long screw. In the center-front of the new-exposed guts is a box with a round top & a cone at the front with 2 screws.

This is the Brush Motor Assembly, and it's actually vacuum-powered. Remove the 2 screws holding down the from, then look for 2 large holes on the bottom of the unit behind the black "squirter bar".

There's very long screws at the bottom of these holes that also hold down the brush motor.Once the 2 bottoms screws have been fully loosened & the top-front screws removed, the brush motor should pull up easily.

On the right is a square port, in front the the brush speed stick (where the gray button pops onto). on the left is a gray & black hose, these should pull off easily, but may have some liquid in them.

Pull out the brush motor & set it on a convenient spill-resistant work surface upside-down. You should see the square-hole drice for the brushes, a gray piece of plastic, & a cresent-shaped hole.

The port at the front & hole on bottom provide an air path for the vacuum to poll air through this assembly & spin the brushes. You should see 2 screws at the back of the motor & 2 more at the bottom of holes surrounded by the gray plastic. Remove all 4 screws.

You can now pull off the bottom cover with the gray plastic. Front to back you should see the brush drive gear, an intermidiate gear, ant one of the bearings for the fan that drives the whole thing. pulling out the bearing & gears to clean out this area & lube up the gears with some Lithium Grease helps, as well as making sure the bearing is well lubed with 3-in-1 oil and/or lithium grease.

The top is held on at this point with 4 platic clips. The top doesn't need to be removed unless you *really* have to see the fan. The clips can be broken off if one is not careful, and there's nothing in there to be lubed. Best to leave it as-is.

At the top of the driveshaft is a second sealed bearing. I couldn't figure out how to get it out without braking it, lube this one in place. The bearings are supposed to be sealed, so removing the black "washer" from the bearing is done completely at your own risk. I just put some oil on there, spun it to work it in, then repeated with the white grease.

Replace the intermediate gear, the brush drive gear, then the lower sealed bearing in that order. You can spin the gears to ensure they're spinning well. Mine was OK, but after a bit of use worked the grease in & the brushes really started spinning.

Keep in mind everything here except the screws is plastic, be creful to get a snug fit with the screws without overtightening. "Gorilla-ing" the screws will just break the plastic & make the whole adventure an exercise in frustration.

Reattach the bottom plate with all 4 screws, 2 in the holes in the gray plastic, 2 in the back.

Reattach the gray & balck hoses to the left side of the brush drive. They're 2 different sizes, so there's only 1 place the smaller hose will fit easily. Place the assembly back in the machine & replace the 2 screws in the front.

Flip the machine up so you can put the 2 really long screws back into the underside of the brush drive. There's 2 guide slots on either side, make sure the brush with the indicator wheel on top goes into the big hole on the right. You may need to spin the brushes a bit to get the center squure stick to line up with the hole in the drive gear. The brushes should pop back in easily if everything's lined up right.


Put the top cover on, making sure the Brush Speed stick & center screwhole line up, as well as the back sides snap into place.

Screw down the top, then flip the unit up so you can snap the bottom-front of the top over the gray wedges on the front, then screw into place.

Replace the Recovery Tank, fill & replace the solution tank, and test-drive.


Vanger Chevane.

Apr 19, 2009 | Hoover SteamVac F5914-900 SpinScrub...

2 Answers

Roller motor on a DC17 dyson wont turn on


there is a reset button under the cover that houses the on/off switches. remove the handle/wand and look on the back (where the top of the hose sits) for 2 screws (its a torx/star head screw size t10 i believe). remove them and locate 4 small locking tabs that hold the switch cover to the frame of the vacuum. Depress them and pop the cover off (2 towards the top and 2 towards the bottom). Youll see 3 switches (2 square red buttons and one small cylindrical shaped one). Push the small red one (the one to the left if my memory serves me right). you should hear a click. if you do than the switch is reset. if not check all connections to all 3 switches. if you see nothing loose or not connected, you may need a new brushbar motor. try it

Feb 02, 2009 | Dyson DC17 Animal Bagless Upright Cyclonic...

9 Answers

Electric front seat stuck


the first thing to do is remove the plastic skirt around rhe seat,to do this remove the seat movement knobs by prying them off with screwdriver,gental steady pressure works,then remove the screw in the rear( back seat compartment),three screws at seat switches and the side skirt will pull out (four tabs are connected to the mating plastic pieces,pull outtoward you). two screws hold the front skirt on these are tough to get to they are at an angle. with this skirt removed you can get to the motor,
three screws remove the the motor (Isuggest unplugging motor,small connector) on each end of shaft are retaining bushings rotate them toward the back and they will disengage,you can now pick up the motor and the the shafts will come out with it.these shafts disengage from the motor and should be kept seperate (greasey)
I used a R2 square drive bit (the driver used to install deck screws) to find which screwdrive is jammed, I adjusted the other one to its front stop with square driver bit the worked the jammed one back and forth mostly toward the rear and it worked free.
I adjusted this one to the front stop and reassembled the motor,shaft(make shure to snap retaining bushing in place)reconnect motor connector,all plastic skirts AND NEVER ALLOW THE SEAT TO TRAVEL TO ITS FRONT STOP AGAIN. (4HRS)

Sep 18, 2008 | 2003 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

Hi mine is a f7421-900


Unless something came apart, there is no switch, when you push that knob to turn off the brushes, you are actually moving an actuator arm on the top of turbine. Take the brush block out and there should be a shaft sticking up, if broken off, then replace the brush block. Then look up where the brush block was, tur the unit on, if the square hole is turning then the turbine is ok, if not then there is a problem with it. Take out the screws from the bottom, I believe there is 4 or 6 for the top housing, there are 2 longer screws, they hold down the turbine, take those out also. Turn the unit over, and remove the top cover, near the back of it, on each side, there is a post that the cover goes into, should just pull out. Then ther are 2 more screws on the front of the turbine, unhook the hoses and it will come out. #23 is the turbine.

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Jul 19, 2008 | Hoover F7425-900 SteamVac V2 Widepath...

20 Answers

Hoover model 5906-900 spinscrub


Solution for Hoover SteamVac (F7452-900) brushes not spinning
Uses the turbine model and same solution would be similar. Root cause is simply the main gear attached to turbine becomes stuck. This problem should not happen as often as I see other people also having this problem. Must be a poor design on Hoover’s part. It takes about 30 minutes and a Phillips screw driver and wrench. Pretty easy, just have to remember what screws went where.
Remove brushes, and front suction cover
On the bottom of the machine:
Remove the 4 screws behind brushes which attach the top faceplate
Remove the 2 screws from base in the sunken holes
Remove the two long silver screws from base which connect all the way to turbine assembly
Stand machine upright
Remove the floor select switch handle
Remove 1 screw near the center beside the intake hole
Remove the 2 screws over the rear wheels
Remove faceplate cover, the front will need to be gently pried over the clear plastic part, be careful about the upright disengaging lever under faceplate, move it under the metal wire
Remove the 2 screws in the front of the turbine assembly
Remove the 2 hoses on either side
Disengage the bar on the floor selector switch
Pull out the turbine assembly
Remove the 4 screws and 3 clips to separate the assembly
Remove the filter (which is most likely clean since, cleaning this is the manufactures only solution)
Remove the large white gear and with a wrench remove ball bearing
Remove other large white gear
Note that the metal gear attached to turbine will not move (this was my problem), with a wrench gently grab metal gear and twist free. Spin turbine to make sure it moves freely.
Put everything back together again and you should be good to go.

Apr 12, 2006 | Hoover V1 SteamVac SpinScrub Vacuum

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