Question about Soleus LX-120 Air Conditioner

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1st Problem: Doesn't evaporate the water. 2nd: Power will not stay on.

I used to use it all the time. First problem I had that it started leaking water (big puddles). I checked the manuel to see if I was supposed to be draining it regularly and it said there was no need. After I got tired of it leaving puddles I hooked up a hose to the drain plug. That worked, just had to dump the five gallon bucket every coule days. Now the new problem it wont stay on. After running for about 10 mins it just shuts off. And you have to push the reset button on the plug. And the same thing happends. I called Soleair customer service. And they me a number to somebody's who works there's voicemail. And they wont call back.

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Re: 1st Problem: Doesn't evaporate the water. 2nd: Power...

First thing to know is that most window or portable A/C units use the water from the evaporator to cool the condenser. If the condensor is not cooled down it will cause high head pressure on the Compressor causing it to overheat and shutdown. First thing is to make sure nothing is plugged which will keep the water from reaching the condensing fan, which slangs water on the condenser. If this is a portable unit it may only have a condenser and uses the water to cool it.

Posted on Nov 10, 2006

Re: 1st Problem: Doesn't evaporate the water. 2nd: Power will not stay on. - Soleus LX-120 Air Conditioner Air Conditioners

Do it the way he told you to!!!!!!

Posted on Jul 11, 2007

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SOURCE: Heater will not work, trips the reset button constantly. No help from manufacturer.

First of all I would make sure that you have it set up as instructed by the manufacturer guide or owners manual. If the plug is getting warm, replace the receptacle or try it in another outlet. Do not use an extension cord unless it is rated at the current that the unit is suppose to draw. If problem persist,contact Soleus International at (888) 876-5387. They promise a 1 year warranty. If you are not satisfied with the unit and their warranty, contact the place you bought it from and try them. Report them to the BBB if still unsatisfied. Good luck. kstfas

Posted on Oct 23, 2006

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Soleus LX-140 leaking problem

We have a 1-year PE3-09R-03 that just started dripping water on the floor. The red "tank full" light never came on. I opened it up to investigate, and I believe the problems are caused by dust. The plastic float that trips the "tank full" switch appears to have gotten stuck due to the combination of water and dust in the tray. Once I loosened it up and cleaned the guide tube it rides in, it would trip the switch when the tank was full. The reason the tank was filling up was a little less obvious. There is a 2-piece plastic tray that sits underneath the evaporator and above the condenser. The tray is supposed to distribute the water that's dripping from the cold evaporator coils onto the warm condenser coils so it can evaporate and be blown out with the warm exhaust air (note that "evaporator" and "condenser" are referring to the refrigerant - the terms appear backwards when referring to what's happening to the water on the outside). The tray and its lid have a series of tiny holes that were - guess what - plugged by dust. The tray is relatively easy to remove, just two screws and a spring clamp on the overflow hose. The tray lid is heat-staked onto the tray, you should be able to clean it without separating the lid. I cleaned and reinstalled the tray and verified that water would flow properly. I then reassembled the unit and fired it up, and it's been running without a puddle for over a day in humid weather.
The unit has a filter for the recirculating room air, but there is no filter for the outside air loop. Adding a filter would obviously help keep the dust out, but it could also reduce the cooling efficiency of the unit.
DO NOT use one of these on a floor you care about without some sort of emergency catch tray underneath!

Posted on Aug 17, 2009

  • 661 Answers

SOURCE: Soleus LX-140 Portable Air Conditioner The drain

Hi Jcamer6,

If the new pipe that you have got leaks , then all you need to do is add up O ring or rings to near the mouth of the hose pipe and you would find that the leak has stopped.

Many a times just because of an absence of an O ring we have such hose pipes leaking.

Hope this helps ..:)

Posted on Jun 27, 2011

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How do i do when the indoor unit start water leaking non stop??

Water leaking depends on 18 reasons. Plz let me be cleared that voltage, amphs, gas pressurer, indoor motor condition, cleanliness of the indoor evaporator coil., etc.

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you cant check capacitor with power on it nor using volt setting.need micro ferred setting on meter and check with power off and wires removed. leads go as follow for fan one lead on "C" and one on fan. For compressor one lead on Common and one on HERM. Also be sure voltage on capacitor is correct 360V or 440V. 440V will work for either. Also double check micro ferred requierment on motor and compressor. If its been replaced before may have been replaced with incorrect size. It happens.

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Your evaporator is probably dirty and is blocking some of the air flow so the air has to move around the coil and starts coming in through the condensate drain holes. That stops the condensation (water) from draining out the holes because the air is pushing it back in.Try having the unit cleaned and that should stop that leaking.

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Hot water leaking from what i think to be the pop off valve. i tried to tighten it a little and it started leaking more. The unit is 16 years old. The excess water is draining into the catch pan and then...

16 yrs old? Im guesing this is a hot water heater.Not a air conditioner.

If its still making hot water you may not need to replace the whole unit.
The valve that is leaking is a high pressur relief valve and they do go bad the sprigs become weak over time and some corrosion may not allow the valve to seat properly.

1st step is to shut off all incoming and out going water to the tank.
2nd Shut off fuel or gas to the unit, and annonce to everyone your are working on the hot water heater.
3rd at the very bottom should be a drain valve much like a hose spicket,open this slowly and drain the tank,remember the water will be hot.You may not need to drain it all the way,while draining pop open the relief valve,when you stop getting water from it,you are below it and can turn the drain valve off.
4th remove old relief valve and replace with a new one,i think they are rated at 15 psi or 30 psi blowoff pressure,hopefully there is a tag on it with that info.

When you go to install your new one use some pipe thread compound or teflon tape around the threads before you reinstall valve.
Once done slowly refill tank with water, check for leaks.When full open up hot water valve to house and relight a faucet in kitchen to hot to bleed off any air.

Jan 14, 2011 | Air Conditioners

1 Answer

We had 2 new units installed 2 yrs ago and now it's sweating

1st of all the pan under your unit should not have water in it unless the primary drain from the evaporator coil is plugged.

2nd the secondrary drain pan underneath the unit should go to some kind of drain, along with the drain
from the evaporator coil. They should not be hooked
together until they reach the proper drain.

Check to see if they are hooked up together, if one is
plugged the other one will be to. The drain line could
be to small as well, check to see if they ran the condensate drain in 3/4inch pvc pipe or hose minimum.

It could very well be that they did not insulate the plenum, if it is sweating on the outside, insulate it.

Jun 28, 2010 | Air Conditioners

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Have a 3 ton 13 yr. old rheem.supplamental heat wants to stay on all of the time.were do i have a lots of electronics and electrical experience.

the 1st stage heat sequencer is stuck(welded) closed use an inducted amp meter to determin the heater that is runing it will draw around 20 amps and follow the wire to the sequencer and replace it it will run the fan and 1st and 2nd heat elements

Jun 26, 2010 | Air Conditioners

1 Answer

I have a unit in the attic that is installed in the attic horizontally. The condensation leaks out the unit into the overflow pan. I have had the drip pan replaced as it was cracked, the overflow line...

It sounds like to me that the leak is coming from inside the unit(air handler) possibly your evaporator coil is icing up and causing a build up of water just below where the 3/4" P.V.C. drain line connects. Instead of draining out the line, it is finding its way out of the unit else where. I have seen this many times. It sounds like you have done everything that I would have done, but take a look at the bottom of the evaporator pan and I bet that it also is starting to rust out.If the new overflow pan is not leaking, and the condensate line is leak free, it has to be leaking from the evap pan inside the unit.That's why you have the overflow pan in the 1st place to prevent ceiling damage as I am sure you know. I hope I have been of some help to you, please let me know what you find.

Sincerely, Shastalaker7

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Evaporator Coil

Yes, just count how many pins per inch and replace with the same number of pins per inch.

Sep 09, 2008 | Air Conditioners

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Leaking evaporator home ac NEW Amana unit


Happy to assist you!

Why are you doing it?
You have a new warranty, call service and let them correct it!

You need to call service !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Aug 29, 2008 | Amana Air Conditioners

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