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Switch to activate icemaker arm on front of door stopped working

Is there a way to remove the front icemaker/water panel to fix the switch?

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You want to reomve the front dispensor cover to acess the levers that dispence the ice??? in order to remove the disoenser panel youll need to look under the bottom of the cover (where it meets the freezer panel) youll see 2 little slots approx 1 inch in form each side. small enought to insert a small screwdriver. kinda tricky to explain but as you CAREFULLY insert screwdriver (as not to ruin door finish) with a twist yo can "pop" of the clip holding it down, after popping both sides it lifts off top supports. rest is evident as what to do with switches.. to replac ethe panel youll need to hang back over top clips and with the heel of your hand hit the bottom clips back into place with a downward snap.might have to hit it pretty hard,

Posted on Nov 11, 2008

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If you changed the filter than water may not have made it to the icemaker yet. If you have givin it 24hrs than check these.

There are only 3 things that will prevent an icemaker from not making ice.

1) Temperature in freezer. Most icemakers require that the temp in the freezer is at a minium of 6 degrees. If the thermostat in the icemaker is not reading this temp or below it will not let the icemaker call for water to make ice.

2) Icemaker. Is the arm on the icemaker in the correct position. Most models the arm should be down to operate and up to be off. Faulty icemaker. The internal components of the icemaker may have went out.

3) Water inlet valve. If the silinoid for the icemaker on the inlet valve is stuck it will not allow water to the icemaker. Over time inlet valves wear out.

Troubleshooting- Check the temp in freezer. If not 6 degrees or below you have another problem with your freezer. If at 6 degrees or below and you have ice and water through door unplug fridge, switch the two hoses from the inlet valve (NOT Possible on all inlets so check to make sure you can remove the hoses by pushing in on the cylinder that hose feeds into and pulling hose out) Switch the hoses than press the water through door feature. If you get water inlet valve is good. If you dont have ice and water though door than have your inlet valve tested. If inlet is good and temp is good replace icemaker. If you have any questions or need further assistance please respond. Thank you

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There is a tube that feeds the icemaker if you follow the water line from the inlet valve up the back of fridge and remove full tube you can see any ice buildup or try these.

There are only 3 things that will prevent an icemaker from not making ice.

1) Temperature in freezer. Most icemakers require that the temp in the freezer is at a minium of 6 degrees. If the thermostat in the icemaker is not reading this temp or below it will not let the icemaker call for water to make ice.

2) Icemaker. Is the arm on the icemaker in the correct position. Most models the arm should be down to operate and up to be off. Faulty icemaker. The internal components of the icemaker may have went out.

3) Water inlet valve. If the silinoid for the icemaker on the inlet valve is stuck it will not allow water to the icemaker. Over time inlet valves wear out.

Troubleshooting- Check the temp in freezer. If not 6 degrees or below you have another problem with your freezer. If at 6 degrees or below and you have ice and water through door unplug fridge, switch the two hoses from the inlet valve (NOT Possible on all inlets so check to make sure you can remove the hoses by pushing in on the cylinder that hose feeds into and pulling hose out) Switch the hoses than press the water through door feature. If you get water inlet valve is good. If you dont have ice and water though door than have your inlet valve tested. If inlet is good and temp is good replace icemaker. If you have any questions or need further assistance please respond. Thank you

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Your ice maker can be rebuilt. I would disconnect it from the plug and remove it and carefully take it apart. Be careful not to loose the lever arm spring as you disassemble. Look at it once the screws ar removed under the front cover. It is rare to have a defective new water control valve. But once the ice maker is unplugged you will know because the ice maker is what tells the water to come on once the cube rake reaches home position. Sometimes the thermostat that tell the water on is stuck or the micro switch that tells the heater below the ice maker to remain on causing the same symptoms. So it will be most likely the ice maker and less likely the water control valve. The parts are priced so high it is cheaper to buy new than to buy parts. But I have fixed them without replacing parts. Sometimes the micro-switches just get stuck. What to rebuild it and me help you? Sea Breeze

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Hi,
The first step you need to do is to turn the water off to the refrigerator so it quits making until you get it fixed.
If your fridge has the control boards in each side of the freezer cabinet that controls the icemaker, then you have a failed board. If you have a standard icemaker with the metal shutoff arm then you have a failed motor module in the icemaker. You can remove the icemaker and unplug the wiring connector from it so you can leave the water on to the dispenser.

Thank you for contacting Fixya.com

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Ice maker has stopped making ice. It appears no water is getting to the ice tray. There's no sound (click) when I flip the on/off switch (but I don't know if there's supposed to be any sound). It worked...


Hi,
The first step you need to do is to turn the water off to the refrigerator so it quits making until you get it fixed.
If your fridge has the control boards in each side of the freezer cabinet that controls the icemaker, then you have a failed board. If you have a standard icemaker with the metal shutoff arm then you have a failed motor module in the icemaker. You can remove the icemaker and unplug the wiring connector from it so you can leave the water on to the dispenser.

Thank you for contacting Fixya.com

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Ice maker doesn't turn out the ice/ tray fills with water, and freezes, but doesn't turn out the ice into the door dispenser.


Top 2 possiblities

1/ The motor that ejects the ice is shot.

or

2/ the heater element that melts the ice into pieces.

Here is where you can probably pinpoint problem.

Making Ice When everything is hooked up, the icemaker begins its cycle. The cycle is usually controlled by a simple electrical circuit and a series of switches. In the diagram below, you can see how the icemaker moves through its cycle.
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  • At the beginning of the cycle, a timed switch in the circuit briefly sends current to a solenoid water valve. In most designs, the water valve is actually positioned behind the refrigerator, but it is connected to the central circuit via electrical wires. When the circuit sends current down these wires, the charge moves a solenoid (a type of electromagnet), which opens the valve.
  • The valve is only open for about seven seconds; it lets in just enough water to fill the ice mold. The ice mold is a plastic well, with several connected cavities. Typically, these cavities have a curved, half-circle shape. Each of the cavity walls has a small notch in it so each ice cube will be attached to the cube next to it.
  • Once the mold is filled, the machine waits for the water in the mold to freeze. The cooling unit in the refrigerator does the actual work of freezing the water, not the icemaker itself (see How Refrigerators Work for details). The icemaker has a built-in thermostat, which monitors the temperature level of the water in the molds. When the temperature dips to a particular level -- say, 9 degrees Fahrenheit (-13 degrees Celsius) -- the thermostat closes a switch in the electrical circuit (see How Home Thermostats Work for details on this operation).
  • Closing this switch lets electrical current flow through a heating coil underneath the icemaker. As the coil heats up, it warms the bottom of the ice mold, loosening the ice cubes from the mold surface.
icemaker-bottom.jpg
-->The icemaker has a heating coil underneath the ice mold.
  • The electrical circuit then activates the icemaker's motor. The motor spins a gear, which rotates another gear attached to a long plastic shaft. The shaft has a series of ejector blades extending out from it. As the blades revolve, they scoop the ice cubes up and out of the mold, pushing them to the front of the icemaker. Since the cubes are connected to one another, they move as a single unit.
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  • At the front of the icemaker, there are plastic notches in the housing that match up with the ejector blades. The blades pass through these notches, and the cubes are pushed out to a collection bin underneath the icemaker.
  • The revolving shaft has a notched plastic cam at its base. Just before the cubes are pushed out of the icemaker, the cam catches hold of the shut-off arm, lifting it up. After the cubes are ejected, the arm falls down again. When the arm reaches its lowest resting position, it throws a switch in the circuit, which activates the water valve to begin another cycle. If the arm can't reach its lowest position, because there are stacked-up ice cubes in the way, the cycle is interrupted. This keeps the icemaker from filling your entire freezer with ice; it will only make more cubes when there is room in the collection bin.
This system is effective for making ice at home, but it doesn't produce enough ice for commercial purposes, such as restaurants and self-service hotel ice machines. In the next section, we'll look at a larger, more powerful icemaker design.

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