I must have accidently disconnected a plastic connector that has one black wire coming out of it.the hv block part is 920p00501.The part has 4 prongs 2 vertically and 2 horizontally. any help will be appreciated! Thanks,Gramps
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F3 MAG CURR means you have a problem with the high voltage system in your oven, the microwave circuit.
The next part is extremelydangerous, if you have no background in electric STAY OUT. CALL A PRO you will be working with 5000 volts.
With that said you will need a clamp on ampmeter to measure the current to narrow down the problem.
Discharging can be done by unplugging the oven and then short across the red wire on each capacitor to the chassis with an insulated screwdriver.
1. Remove the top and right side covers.
2. Enter the test mode. (From the OVEN OFF mode, simultaneously press
BACK and ENTER keys, enter the code 9-4-2-8 and press ENTER).
3. Place amp meter on the brown "ct" wire for amp reading. Wire is coming from the primary side of the
HV transformers and looping through the black plastic current transformer on the main control board and back to the HV transformers.
4. Press and hold the MGTRON soft key on the keypad to energize the magnetrons.
5. Observe the amperage on the meter. Typical readings are:
NORTH AMERICA: 12-14 amps at 240VAC/13-16 amps at 208VAC.
If you are getting 12-16 amps then change the I/O board.
If you are only getting 7 or 8 amps then only one side of the of the HV system is not working correctly. You will need to figure out which side is bad by un-plugging the power wires going to one of the HV transformers. Then test again and if you get no amps you have found the bad side. Replace the HV transformer, cap and diode.
If you are not getting any amps then check the F3 fuse it will most likely be blown. Replace and start over
In that particular model, there is a small thermo fuse connecting the white wire and the yellow wire(there are 2 yellow wires coming from the capacitor). It's hidden in the coil so you can just cut the wick in that area an pull those two wires and you are going to see the fuse(small square shape one).
The small wires are disconnected at the focus and screen control block, and the large HV cable is disconnected from the HV splitter.you may have to reuse the large red wire if the new flyback doesnt have the HV lead attached. The Hot is the horizontal output transistor its mounted to a aluminum heat sink near the flyback.
I am assuming you need to get the HV lead out to remove the board. That model if I am not mistaken has the one large Red HV lead running from the flyback to the HV splitter where the other 3 large wires run to the CRts. If this is the case the trick is to remove the wire from the flyback at the splitter, I have found its easiest to slide the red rubber boot back then use a pair of pliers with tape on the jaws so as to not hurt the wire then grab the wire as close to the splitter block as possible then using a second pair of pliers like a hammer and hit the pliers holding the HV lead and thst will force the HV cable out of the Splitter block.
Changing all the caps is not the right approach
to problem solving.Works cold,but fails after hot
is a thermal issue.After set warms up and fails,use cool freeze spray on suspect components to isolate.Determine whether CRT filaments are lit
and/or if HV is present.Also,inspect jumper wire
from transformer to HV block-if corroded,replace
jumper HV lead & HV block w/Mits. parts.