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Becky, it sounds like you have either a failed ERC or Electronic control board (Y0315030) or a bad limit control switch (31933003). If it's the ERC it's likely bad relay(s). If your clock is powering up and you see the clock then that lets us know that you are receiving power to the oven. If it's the Limit Control, then you will need to replace that approximately $60. It's inside the oven and prevents the elements from getting hot if it breaks. If it's the ERC then you can have it repaired for $99.99 from The Repair Shack. The link for the repair service is: Repair Service For GE Oven Range Control Board Y0315030. Hope this helps!
Hello steve o - Typically error code F11 indicates a shorted keypad. Try resetting the range by unplugging it or flipping the household circuit breaker off. This usually will clear most false error codes. Wait approximately ten minutes and if the error code does not clear contact a professional to move forward accurately. Most likely the EOC on the range will need replacing.
You have a bad EOC electronic oven control unit, They are readily available from any parts house. They do not have instruction but are not difficult as it is just a few screws and swap out wire for wire. It may be a good idea to buy it from a vendor that allows returns of electrical items. Many do not allow returned electrical items. Please rate my answer and any comments are welcomed at least good ones:) Good Luck, Mastatech.
I had this same problem last night.. I have been having problems with the oven shutting off on preheat.. That sort of stopped. Last night lost power to the house. When it returned the oven was beeping and flashing PBR. I turned off the breaker for a few mins. last night and it returned. It was bugging me so much that turned it off the whole night. Woke up this morning turned the breaker back on and it stopped. I don't think this is the total solution. I am thinking that eventually I am going to have to replace power board in this oven. Hope it works!
you would have to check the element for continuity. Also the oven sensor could be suspect and should ohm out at 1180 at room temp. if both those are ok then main control is probable. without schematic it would be hard to say for sure..there may even be a safety fuse blown.
DO you have a model number for that. I'm almost sure it's a thermal fuse in the back of the oven. Usually they go out during or after cleaning but that would shut down both elements. If you have the model (usually by the inside door look all over and up in the cavity) Then if you go to this link
SOunds like you need to reset the oven high limit switch. It should be located behind the grille obave the oven opening and below the control panel. There should be about 4-6 screws you need to take out to remove the grille to gain access. Turn the power of to the oven at the circuit breaker, then rech in with a screwdriver and push down on the little red button in the center of the hig limit until it clicks. the high limit should be about as big around as a quarter and have a wire going into one side and out the other. If this keeps tripping, you may have a bad cooling fan. When you run a self clean it should also run a fan to cool the components. You should be able to feel a breeze coming out of the bottom of the oven when the cooling fan (not the convection fan ) is running. If this fan doesnt run, it will trip that switch. Hope this helps!