My wifes machine (just a few monts out of warranty)runs sometimes and just quits sometimes with a Fault F-70. I unplug it for a while then plug it back in and may or may not work. It is a front load washer model WFW9200SQ00. I am an electrician by trade but have never worked on it before. Not even sure how to get into it to check for loose connections. Any help would be greatly appreciated since we live in the country and the closest repairman is about 50 miles away.
The Duet washer is a good machine, just unfortunate Whirlpool engineers used
oxidative circuit board coatings. All the circuit board
connections are oxidizing causing the machines to have faulty connections.
We have fixed the problem using this information.
UNPLUG the machine first . Take the top off (3 screws in the back) , remove the mother board box from the frame housing and remove the lid. Now you can see the circuit board. Carefully remove ONLY one (clip plug-in) at a time. Scrap with a (knife or sandpaper or steel wool ) the edge connector where that plug was, on the circuit board removing the oxidated
metal (it may not look oxidated but must be cleaned), Next put ( vaseline or mineral oil) on the edge connector where that plug was, NOTE: Vaseline or mineral oil is a non-conductive oil and will not effect electronic operation but will prevent further oxidation and the erratic operation of the mother board will cease. Now do the next plug and repeat until completed. NOTE: We recommend only one plug at a time so you do not get confused where each plug belongs. Put the cover back on the mother board box and reattach to the frame, then put the lid back on and screw it down. End of any problems.
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The "F06" fault code indicates a drive motor tachometer error. This means the control is unable to properly detect motor speed and the machine will shut down. If the failure occurs during high-speed spin, the door will unlock after 3 minutes. Possible Causes/Procedure: Unplug washer or disconnect the power supply. Check the wire harness connections between the motor and motor control unit and the harness connections between the motor control unit (MCU) and the Central Control Unit (CCU). Based on your symptom and details, the intermittent (F06) error code is likely a loose connection in the harness between the motor and the (MCU) or between the (MCU) and the (CCU). It could also be the tachometer circuit in the motor or an intermittent internal component connection within the (MCU). Since the (CCU) has already been replaced, the failure is likely a loose harness connection or the (MCU). I recommend calling the repair person back out to re-diagnose the failure. by Joey S MARCH 1ST, 2010 ' Be the first to comment
Hotpoint wd860p washer/drier had fault code F08 come up on the display so took all the usual steps
1. Checked filter
2. Took top off machine checked all contacts
3. Circuit tested usual items
put onto cycle onto rinse and spin after rinse came up with fault code F08 again. Checked internet sites for solutions nothing matched the problem. So started again checking all usual items nothing seemed wrong whilst spending time looking over the machine I noticed the back edge of the weight block was damp? Unplugged the unit and I looked along the grey plastic condense hose which runs from water inlet supply to the heater unit for the drier and it had been rubbing on the drum causing 2 very small holes in the pipe!!!! So to test I pinched around the pipe sealing the holes with some blue tack and fixed in place with some insulation tape. Put it back on a cycle and all seems ok I can order a new pipe whilst the wife still uses the machine. It would appear most error codes are not specific to a particular problem... Typical of a money making scam for the service dept of the manufacturers ...!!!! Watch out ... Hope this is of some use...
F11 fault is actually described in the tech sheet as a "Serial Communication Fault" involving the MCU (the washers computer) and the DC Drive assembly that runs the motor. If you are not familiar with a DC drive, it is simply a controller for the motor that varies the voltage to the motor to change speeds.My research showed many people solving this problem with a replacement of the control unit or the relays inside of it. The problem with the engineering and design of these washing machines was that they all vibrate excesssively unless they are sitting on a floor constructed of a ton or more of solid concrete.
The vibration eventually makes either the motor serial/tach connector (or possibly one of the five relays in the control unit) intermittent, and the machine begins to throw error codes
I have found a good whack on the side of the machine seems to work. No kidding. Here's what happens: Stupid F11 flashes. I hit the pause/cancel button. It flashes the remaining time on the cycle. I hit the start button. Sometimes that just does it. If it doesn't I give it a whack on the left side of the machine, (if you're facing it), in the middle, about 6 to 8 inches above where the drawer is.
It can be the timer processor is fault and is not accepting any other program than one that is set into. remove plug and remove control board , clean and reset with tight connections, check the processor section, solder the IC and associated sections, now set back and set the clock and try once again after cancelling - pressing stop for few seconds.
If the fault stays it is problems in the timer control PCB,but it might change with prolonged resetting ,if there was dirt inthe PCB.
F&P machines are very simple mechanically, but quite complicated electronically.
If you have no lights on the display and power is getting to the machine the most probable cause is that the controller board and/or the internal fuse has failed. The question is why?
It's probably best in the long run that you call a F&P tech because he/she can test all the components that may have caused the controller to fail.
It's common for a primary fault to create a secondary fault further along the in the system.
Replacing a failed component without checking the rest of the machine can result in the part failing again, which is expensive.
A tech should warranty their work, and be able to show why the part(s) failed.
Probably not what you hoped to hear, but cheaper in the long run!
I solved this problem this morning, after several months with intermittent "water outlet fault" error messages.
Our pin trap was cleared many times over the months. The propellor turned freely. However, the problem persisted.
So I unplugged the machine, removed the back panel (8 or so hex screws) and located the point where the drainage hose meets the water draining pump. I then separated the hose from the pump and found 2 United States 10-cent pieces lodged together with gunk that effectively blocked the drainage hose. 10-cent pieces ("dimes") are the perfect diameter to get stuck there and not appear in the pin trap where you could easily see and remove them.
Three loads later, the machine is working according to spec. Hope this helps.
first thing to do is to make sure the washing machine is not siphoning.
sometimes if a washing machine is bringing in water its all so draining it ,known in the trade as siphoning.
the drain hose must be higher than the tub??
Unplug your washing machine from the wall socket for a minute or two and plug it back in to reset its micro.
to me it sounds like a main board fault.
I think you might find that it still maybe under warranty.
ring a Indesit service agent and get some advice.