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Spark plug problems

I have a problem with a 1996 honda magna. 3 of the 4 spark plugs will not fire. I have replaced them and in one day they will foul out and it will start backfireing. its the same 3 that keep fouling out and the other one will always fire.

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I would 1st check to make sure the spark plug boots on your older Honda aren't arcing out prior to getting to the plugs. Anytime spark has a chance it'll take the least path of resistance and arc to the cylinder head before it makes it to the plug causing a very weak spark thus fouling out your plugs. Chances of 3 of 4 cylinders have an issue with compression is unlikely considering most older metric bikes don't see much use, plus, if there was a compression issue, it'd likely be across all 4 cylinders and not just 1. New plug boots are super cheap (around $7-$12 ea) and well worth the easy effort to see if that's the cause before you go rebuilding your engine...... It's a $48 vs. $1000 fix.

Posted on Mar 23, 2012

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Do a compression check and lets go from there. Bad rings CAN cause fouling

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

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1999 magna vf750c no. 2 cylinder fires eradicly


Hi, Ralph and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
4. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking.
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6. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
7. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
8. Faulty CKP or CMP, MAP, ETS, ATS, TPS, O2 sensor.
9. Intake air leak.
10. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system, carburetor and/or filter.
11. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carburetor vent line closed off.
12. Vacuum line from intake manifold to fuel valve is broken, cracked, pinched, or missing.
13. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
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15. Incorrect valve timing.
16. Weak or broken valve springs.
17. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have nice a day.
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Hi Chris, if you have a CKP sensor it needs compression to send correct signal to the ICM/ECM, make sure both spark plugs are in heads and use a grounded third plug to check for spark or hold spark plug cable close to spark plug in head. If still not getting spark the usual suspects are:
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2. Battery voltage below 8.7 volts, loose or broken battery cables, check the "NEGATIVE" cable at both ends.
3. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
4. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting / leaking, spark plug cable connections loose.
5. Faulty ignition coil or ignition / electronic module
6. Failed CKP, CMP, MAP or BAS sensor.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Security alarm failing to disarm.
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Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
4. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking check for spark leakage in the dark
5. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
6. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
7. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
8. Faulty CKP or CMP, MAP, ETS, ATS, TPS, O2 sensor.
9. Dirty air filter.
10. Intake air leak.
11. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system.
12. Carburetor contaminated, sticky float, plugged jets.
13. Carburetor vacuum diaphragm torn, cracked, not seated or installed improperly.
14. Multiple carburetors out of sync.
15. Fuel filter clogged.
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17. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carb vent line closed off.
18. Gas cap diaphragm valve faulty.
19. Vacuum line from intake manifold to fuel valve is broken, cracked, pinched, or missing.
20. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
21. Incorrect valve timing.
22. Valve springs floating, weak, or broken.
23. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
24. Incompatible performance parts.
25. Control module may be in "LIMP" mode
26. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty pulse coil.
8. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
9. Faulty ignition switch.
10. Faulty run/off switch
11. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
12. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.

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Hi, Tom and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
4. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking check for spark leakage in the dark
5. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
6. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
7. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
8. Faulty CKP or CMP, MAP, ETS, ATS, TPS, O2 sensor.
9. Dirty air filter.
10. Intake air leak.
11. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system.
12. Carburetor contaminated, sticky float, plugged jets.
13. Carburetor vacuum diaphragm torn, cracked, not seated or installed improperly.
14. Multiple carburetors out of sync.
15. Fuel filter clogged.
16. Old or contaminated fuel.
17. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carb vent line closed off.
18. Gas cap diaphragm valve faulty.
19. Vacuum line from intake manifold to fuel valve is broken, cracked, pinched, or missing.
20. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
21. Incorrect valve timing.
22. Valve springs floating, weak, or broken.
23. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
24. Incompatible performance parts.
25. Control module may be in "LIMP" mode
26. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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I have a1984 vf1100s v65 sabre i was riding along and lost power the bike continued to run on like half power then died completely. the following morning it did restart. i put a house hold electrical...


Hi, Mrklave and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Discharged battery, needs to be 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a "LOAD" test, your battery may show 12.5 volts but has little or zero amps and must be replaced.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting, leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or CDI or electronic control module.
7. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
8. Faulty ignition switch.
9. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
10. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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