Scratched negatives; broken tractor drive on two cameras
I was in Europe for two months. I had taken 60 rolls of Fujifilm (400). Within a week my Pentax IQZoom camera failed to advance the film and stopped functioning. I bought a new camera in Hamburg. Within a week, that camera also failed to advance film and stopped functioning. I purchased a third camera, and while this one advanced film, I ruined 12 rolls trying to get the film to load properly. When I had my photos developed, most of the film had scratches on the negatives and nearly all the fifty rolls developed very poorly (very dark). Has anyone else experienced similar issues with Fujifilm? It was purchased at Costco. I am bitterly disappointed and frustrated at the cost of film, development and cameras.
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Re: scratched negatives; broken tractor drive on two...
There doesn't seem to be a pattern with any of the Fuji films (I use Sensia and Velvia, exclusively, and have never had a problem in my Canon EOS). There are reports that the Fuji Pro films will gum up the sprockets in a camera, thanks to an adhesive strip at the end of the roll, but I'm not sure if the regular 400 speed film has the same problem. You might try a thorough cleaning, and see if it is still happening. I'm not surprised that 400 speed comes out a tad dark. Try dropping to 200 speed (I generally won't use anything above 100 speed, unless it is black&while).
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A number of things could be the cause, camera and processing. If it is C41, negative film, we will rule out processing.
Another thing is your camera may not be setting the exposure correctly. Are you setting the exposure manually or automatically? With the camera in automatic exposure open the back, point to a bright spot press the shutter, do you see light? Then Set the camera to one second, and at the widest aperture, say f2.8, open the back press the shutter, now do you see light?
Depending on the results you will need to decide if the camera is worth repairing or a new/used one is in your future.
Yes, you can get 35mm in color negative or black and white. Although the black and white film may be in 2 varieties: traditional process black and white(not all labs can process this) and C-41 process black and white (and one hour lab can process this). If you are looking for color film choose the C-41 color negative film like Kodak gold 400 or Fujicolor 400.
If you can see the frame numbers on the edge of the unexposed negatives, the problem is most likely either the camera's shutter is not opening, or the camera's take-up/advance mechanism isn't working properly. It could also be that the film isn't being loaded correctly. Check all three, or have a camera shop (not department store!) check it out for you. They should be able to test the first two situations easily, and help you if it's a loading problem.
This looks as if the negative has been scratched by the minilab processor. It could be scratched in tha camera but with this camera there are only two places this could happen resulting in this kind of scratch.
One is the film cassette itself, the other is the take-up spool, where the film is wound onto itself. However this would not be likley to create a scratch affecting more than one or two negs.
Colour film has a built in orange filter which compensates for the excess sensitivity of colour papers to blue. If this is scratched away, then more blue get's through which prints yellow.
The processing machine uses sqeegee's to prevent carry-over of chenicals form one bath to another, and damage or contaminaton of any one of these can scratch the negative. This is much more likely during processing, as the emulsion is softer when wet.
Films usually have a protective anti-scratch layer, but the protection is not 100%. Also develelped emulsion is generally harder than undeveloped as the last development stage often contains chemical hardeners designed to give extra protection to the negative.
The reason it may not show on all the prints is simply that these days many colour film is printed by digital scanning. Many scanners can detect scratches by viewing the negative in infrared light. Photographic dyes are transparent to infrared in order to reduce heat absorption from enlarger lamps, so there should be no image visible in infrared, anything that is must be dust or a scratch. The image can them be processed to compensate for the scrathes making them virtually undetectable.
A thin scratch may be filled in by using pixesl just either side of the scratch to fill the scratch in. With a wider scratch, if there is some residual image then the software can use that and nearby unscratched areas as a guide to make an acceptable guess as to what was supposed to be there. If the scratch is too wide and too deep it will just give up. A bodged attempt may end-up worse than the scratch. (Often a skilled touch up artist can make it dissapear, but machines on their own are not that smart yet.)
So the good news is that your camera is unlikely to be at fault.
If this shows on one film or a batch of films processed at the same time, take them back to the processor. (I have done this before and been paid a fair amount of compensation. If they printed them at the same time it should be obvious that the negs were scratched before you took them home.)
On the other hand if this is showing on films processed at the same place over a period of time then don't use them again.
If this is happening no matter where you get the film developed, then you might need to check you camera!
the camera has a short circuit. if the camera got wet or was in very high humidity the flex circuit is shorting . take or send your MZ60 to a camera repair shop for an estimate. if the camera has liquid damage they most likely will not repair it.
however if it's just a component part it's fixable.
the battery drain will worsen as the short increases.
I would suggest you buy an off-brand roll of 12 or 24 exposures. Run it through the camera taking snaps of anything -- but make sure you vary the lighting, ISO, shutter speed, aperture, etc. as you snap the pics. Don't worry too much about composition. This roll is a quick test, NOT for photos to keep.
Have the film developed and then follow-up with comments on the results. I'll gladly assist you further at that time. Char1ieJ