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How do i operate thermostat and furnace

Our furnace does not respond to the thermostat setting in a timley manner. At times it has taken approx. 24hr for the furnace to heat the home at the temperature set on the thermostat. I must admit that the thermostat settings have been increase irratically out of frustration that come from not being comfortable. Once the furnae and thermostat cooperate and the heat is adjusted in or home we are ok. We also hesitate to lower the temperatue setting below 70 on warmer days because we always have to struggle with the furnace and thermostat when it is time to increase the heat temperature for fear we may be cold for 24hr in temperatures below 40. Is our furnace faulty? It is failry new only1.5 years old. Or do we need to learn to operate it more efficiently? Last year the service repair man told us not to turn the heat below 70 in the winter time because the furnace will have to work to hard when it is time to turn it up again and that is why we were cold for 24hours last year. But shouldnt we be able chacng ethe setting on our thermostat and not worry about the furnace malfunctioning?

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If your furnace is on 24 hours straight, before it heats up your home, then either your cold weather and indoor temps are extreme, or your unit is grossly undersized. if however your furnace cycles on and off when the temp is still way colder than you have set it you have either a bad stat that thinks its hotter than it is, or a bad furnace problem and even though the furnace is getting a signal from the stat to heat it is failing to do so. you'll have to watch and think this through to isolate the problem. if you set the furnace to max heat and it runs and heats the house reasonably quick then its probably going to be a bad stat. if you set it to max heat and it shuts off way before it gets to setpoint then the problem is in the furnace. be sure filters are clean, blower wheel is clean , returns are no obstructed, etc. if you by chance have an old mercury bulb stat they had a thing in them called a heat anticipator which basically worked like this. a dial with a little pointer determined how soon it would be till the furnaced reached the desired temp and anticipated how soon to shut off the burners in anticipation of the cool down period so you dont overshoot the desired temp. if these are bad or moved to different setting they can short cycle the furnace on of on off etc. or shut down the burner almost as soon as it lights. setting is usually at .4 to .6 on most, but really a digital stat is only way to go. by the way check to be sure you don't have a hot air supply grill blowing directly on the stat or it will shut off as soon as stat gets hot and rest of house will be cold. usual location is 5 feet off floor directly over the main return air grill or under it as the case may be. good luck

Posted on Nov 12, 2008

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What is the energy factor for the mod.82V80-2? I have two seperate 30amp circuits, one for the top element and one for the bottom element, if that changes anything.


http://www.rheem.com/product.aspx?id=09DF2BDD-5E11-4D32-B574-84ACFB8A4619
http://globalimageserver.com/fetchDocument.aspx?id=052c9e32-ce37-48d7-8990-9e430f23fef3

82V80-2 Energy factor is .86 according to water heater industry self-regulated standards.

Rheem pdf says these water heaters are wired for non-simultaneous operation.
Except special order water heaters.
Non-simultaneous operation uses single 240V circuit as described below.
If your water heater is wired for simultaneous operation, and each element is on a separate circuit, that makes your water heater special order. I would guess the reason is for higher first-hour delivery, which implies rapid heating and would likely affect energy factor.
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http://www.energysavers.gov/your_home/water_heating/index.cfm/mytopic=13000

Non simultaneous operation means the upper thermostat controls heating functions.
240V goes to upper thermostat first.
When water inside tank is cold, thermostat reads temperature through tank wall.
Upper thermostat turns on upper element until top 2/3 of tank reaches thermostat set point.
Once set point is reached, upper thermostat turns off upper element and sends power to lower thermostat and lower element.
Lower thermostat reads temperature through tank wall, and turns on lower element until bottom 1/3 of tank reaches thermostat set point.
As water cools inside tank, lower thermostat is first to respond since hot water rises.
Lower thermostat turns on lower element until tank again reaches set point.
When hot water faucet is turned on, hot water exits top of tank.
At same time, cold water enters bottom of tank through the dip tube.
The heating cycle repeats.
At all times, the electricity flows through upper thermostat. And upper thermostat is powered by one 240V circuit.

With simultaneous operation, the upper and lower thermostats work in same manner.
Except thermostats are wired separately.
Lower thermostat does not wait for upper part of tank to be heated first.
Lower thermostat turns on whenever lower part of tank cools.
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One method for reducing electric consumption is to set lower thermostat so it only turns on during certain times of day. For example Whirlpool Energy Smart operates in this manner and shaves a few bucks off the bill each month. This says that simultaneous operation is not an energy saver, unless that circuit controlling lower thermostat is set on a timer.

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