Purchased new at Pyle photo and stereo in Ames, Ia March 1979 ... Need the connecting wire that coordinates the flash to the shutter. This wire inserts (male prong) into the rear of the flash attachment and enters the front of the camera near the lense.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Happy ending to this saga of the Nikon N2020 AF. I went to Walmart and purchased some real photo grade batteries. At first the result was the same, no apparent change, dead camera. I left the batteries in the camera overnight. The next day I tried depressing the shutter button with the camera turned on to S for single shot, and to my amazement the camera came alive! I don't know why or how but now it works and I don't have to bring it in for servicing. Today we will be off to the local zoo to take some shots. Can't wait. Thanks for all the comments and suggestions.
How old is the battery? The shutter in all polaroid cameras ia battery controlled, so if the battery is old, the shutter will not function properly. If it's taking a while to make noise, rollers aren't likely an issue - roller issues are evident with spotte development. It may be an issue with the motor, shutter, or battery.
Camera has a bad magnet, the A series were plagued by this. Repairs will cost more than probably what it's worth. The AE-1's used an electromagnet system to activate the shutter for a smoother press and less shake from the camera system.
I got lucky and recently purchased an AE-1 program that doesn't have this problem, it seems to be a hit and miss with these.
Not necessarily. The EM has an M90 setting which will fire the shutter at 1/90th of a second. The meter is inactive on this setting. It was put on the EM so that if the batteries fail, you can shoot at 1/90th and take a guess at the exposure. There is also a small button (blue or chrome, depending on the production run) which lights up a red LED if the batteries are good. The light meter doesn't work until the frame counter is at 1 or higher. Before the #1, the shutter will always fire at 1/2000th of a second to speed up the film loading process. You can tell that the meter is working by observing the meter's scale/needle on the inside of the viewfinder. If it is pointing out of the red zone, it's OK to shoot (proper exposure). If the needle is in the red zone (indicating under or over exposure) the camera will "beep" as an audible warning. Check the battery condition first.
is this black bar on all the time or only when using flash? if only when using flash then your shutter speed is to high. for flash on the K1000 the shutter speed must be 1/60th sec. or slower.
if the black bar is there all the time then the shutter must be adjusted, cleaned and lubed.take or send your K1000 to a camera repair shop for an estimate first as there are no new part available,
First, are you shooting with the flash up or an external flash connected to it? If so, the camera likely needs to synchronize at 1/200 or slower otherwise it won't be able to take a full photo. As a safety feature to prevent that, many new cameras just restrict the ability to pick a faster shutter speed.
Second, if its not related to the flash, it might be related to the mode you are using. Turn the camera off the automatic modes and put it on an all manual setting. Change the ISO to 400 or so, got outside and aim up at the day's sky, put it on manual mode and then adjust the shutter speed. Open up the aperture on your lens all the way (turn it to the smallest number). Now adjust the shutter speeds. It should be able to go past 200 now.
If you are getting some photos where only part of the image is visible, then I suspect that they were photos where you used a flash.
Cameras have a specified maximum shutter speed for use with a flash, this is called its 'sync speed'. This is the fastest speed that the camera will need to open the lead shutter and close the trailing shutter in order to expose the entire surface area of the image and have it evenly lit by the flash unit. If you shoot too fast of a speed, then the shutter will only be partly completed its exposure and you'll get a photo with only part of the image showing. The faster the speed past the sync speed, the less the resulting area of the image. Most cameras will have a sync speed of 1/250 or less. I think a lot of the Rebel models are 1/90 - consult your manual.
Set camera to B , open back door and release the shutter and keep it open while you inspect focal plain area. Is the shutter fully opened ? If you release again is the shutter opening completely and closing completely ? While the shutter is fully opened on B look through the shutter/ mirror box area is anything obstracting your view ?
Seems like one of the shutter curtains is not opening properly and shutter will need servicing. Please note that it may not be economical to repair : $ 150-200 if the shutter block does not have to be replaced completely.