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Re: gas cook top
Most of the time when I come out for a service call with this problem, it is usually because the burner cap is not seated properly on the base. Look at the burner and make sure there are no uneven gaps. Most of the time you will have to rotate the burner cap till a notch or pin "seats" into place. Most burner caps just sit on the bases, and so they get knocked off or moved when the cooktop is cleaned or installed. Hope this helps!
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Due this test, turn on all burners on high, as you turn them on, does the problem burner change in volume or size of flame? If all burners are on and you only have issues with that single burner you need to replace that burner valve only. If you have issues with all burners when the all are on, replace the regulator.
I hope this helps and leads you in the right direction.
Has this just recently happened? Check the knobs aren't cracked sometimes the brass spindle inside the knob is not gripping to turn it right down, also check your l p gas pressure it should be 2.75 kpa.
if the flames are big and yellow it's getting too much gas, not enough air.
Make sure there is no blockage of the burner near where the spark jumps. All it takes is a drop of water to stop the gas flow near the spark. Most likely you can use a knife or some other thin blade to clear the slots where the flame comes out of the burner.
As it relates to 5 burner gas cooktop Model Number JGP 963SEJ1SS
First - Ignite the flame then reduce the flame to between low and medium. If the igniter continues to click, you most likely have a contact switch issue related to the problem burner.
Unplug the cook top and turn off the gas. After the gas is turned off, disconnect the gas line.
Remove the cook top.
Unscrew and Remove ALL of the burner bases by lifting them up. The ceramic igniters may be difficult to remove but they will come loose if worked out slowly.
Pull of the wire connected to the igniter.
Remove to cook top top plate from the base, exposing the internal gas valves and wiring.
All of the burners are wired in parallel. Lift off and unsnap the casing of the problem igniter switch. The repair may require something as simple as, 1- cleaning the contact strips, or 2- slightly bending the non stationary contact strip to keep it from coming in contact with the stationary contact when in the off position, or 3- replacing the switch.
Unless you comfortable and understand how electric systems and switches work, this is a job for a qualified repair person.
The module might not sense the flame: check electrical connections: wire (and its contacts0 and conections by fryer chasis; to be sure please bond with 18AWG wire pilot burner with spark module green wire.
Lowly what the potentior does is turn on the burner control system. When you turn on a normal burner you are opening a gas valve and closing a switch to generate a spark. Thus gas flow to the burner and spark. On the extra low simmer burner there is a electric solenoid between the burner head and the gas valve. this has to open as well for gas to flow. What the potentior does is signal the simmer control what level of flame you are requesting and telling the spark module to generate a spark. Once you go to the exlow setting the potentior tells the simmer control what level of heat and will cycle the flame on and off. So when the burner knob was between low and extra low, the flame would cycle on and off. You have to seperate the top section of the cooktop from the burner box to change the potentior for it sits on top of the gas valve for that burner.
Hi, interesting. I have the same units on my GasHob and my problems are exactly reverse. To turn the burners on it takes about 15 clicks and with some luck you'll get gas! Sorry, wished I could help. Claus.
Dirt. Spilled oil, grease, milk etc. act as isolator and prevent contact between burner and casing (mass). You need to clean up burners, scrub all the dirt and make sure their seats are cleaned too (brass elements below burners).