Not so much for the 1098. Pretty sure by the looks of it the 1098 won't work but I'd like to know if the 999 will on the 996.My understanding is no it won't fit. You should look for a 748/916/996/998 shock.,,
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Difficulty: Easy-ish
Time: About 1 hour
Tools: Two 17mm spanners - ring and open. Long spanners may help.
As the chart below shows, it's quite normal for a shock absorber to have traces of oil around the top. However leaks like level 3 to 1 mean the shock absorber (SA) needs replacing.
Probably a good idea to replace in pairs.
As always, apply hand-brake, chock the opposite front wheel and without the vehicle raised, slightly slacken off the road wheel nuts.
You would probably be better off sending your failing unit to "Maxton" for a refurb, The biggest problem with finding a monoshock that is right for your bike is the coil and damping settings, not to mention the eye end fittings. Motorcycle monoshocks are designed to fit and work with a specific geometry of linkages. While you may find one the correct size, it may not work properly with the linage setup on your bike. And the only thing keeping your tyres on the road is the suspension. I hope this helps. If you do find one will you let me know please. When you are looking you will need to measure the mounting holes, the length of the unit and the width of the unit, if it is too fat it could catch in the very cramped area under the seat.
If you'll look at the lower end of the shock at the piece the spring sits on, you'll see that there are "steps" in that piece and a "tab" welded to the body of the shock. You turn the lower piece by gripping it using the holes around the part. You need a special tool to do this with. It looks similar to a large pair of pliers with ends that fit into these holes. Any dealer will have a set and should be willing to adjust your shocks.
Hi there. To upgrade your old rear shock is a good idea, however very expensive. Makers like Koni, and Ohlins, will have a rear shock to fit your bike, but unless your willing to part with about $1000, then considermy second solution. Have your old rear shock re built, or re furbished, by a qualified suspension mechanic, for a fraction of the cost. It is also possible to customise, and taylor your old shocky to suit you. Example,shorten the spring?, add a spacer to stiffen it up a bit, less oil, or more oil? I would look into a rebuild first, unless, like i say, you are prepared to spend about $1000 plus. Anything you choose, will definately enhance your bike. Good luck
Hello, Most all motorcycles with Shocks have an Adjustment on the "Bottom" of the Shock which makes the Shock "Firmer or Softer". By making the Shock "Softer" (Lowering it) will Lower the Bike when you sit on it. Making it "Firmer" (raising it) will make it Higher. The Firmest/Tallest Position on the Shock is usually best for riding Two Adults so that the Weight doesn't let the Rear Fender drop onto the Rotating Rear Tire. You can also Measure the Length of your Shock (Measured from Center to Center of the Mounting Bolts) and go to your Local Motorcycle Salvage Yard and buy a Pair of Shocks that will be 1"-2" Shorter and Make Sure that they are from a Bike that is Similar in Weight and Size! (You don't want to put a set of 125cc Shocks on a 900cc bike) but Please check your Rear Fender Cleareance First and make sure that you can lower the bike this much!!! Most of the Motorcycles that I Lower, I Never go more than 2" unless I am Positive that I have the "Clearence"!!! Thanks Azharleybob
with regard to your question, YES, you may use an OEM rear shock from an 02 XR 650f to your 1992 XR600. Both models have the same link type ro it should fit perfectly.note the placing though, you may need larger bushing to fit the shocks.
hope this helps. if you have other questions, please let me know.
you could replace the one shock but do you know why it is leaking oil? Typically unless there was something traumatic to happen to one of the rear shocks, then if one is going you can almost be the other one will go soon. I ended up having too many problems with the air ride suspensions. If you haven't yet, look into conversion kits as something to consider for down the road if nothing else. www.strutmasters.com has a great kit that is made in America and comes with a lifetime warranty. They have a good reputation and track record and can help you save some money and find the permanent solution if anything else goes wrong.
This is a dangerous job if you do not have the proper equipment for compressing the spring that is around the rear shock. I do not recomend performing this job without the proper equipment. Unloading the spring without it compressed can cuase injury.
If you have the proper equipment this is how you do it.
REMOVAL - SHOCK ASSEMBLY
NOTE:Access for the nuts attaching the rear shock assembly upper mount to the vehicle is through the inside of the trunk.
Roll back carpeting on top of the rear shock tower to access shock mounting nuts.
Remove plastic cover from the top of the shock assembly.
Remove 2 nuts attaching the shock assembly upper mount/spring seat to the shock tower.
Raise vehicle on jackstands or centered on a frame contact type hoist.
Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle.
Remove two fasteners holding the splash shield to the shock assembly upper mount.
Remove bolt attaching shock absorber to rear knuckle
Remove the shock absorber from the rear knuckle first when removing the shock absorber from vehicle by pushing down on the rear suspension.
Move shock assembly downward and tilt top of shock outward, then remove shock assembly from vehicle through top of wheel opening.
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