The charger connection at bottom of phone is dented
The copper plate thingie at the bottom of the phone, where the charger connects, is dented a bit, which means the charger's metal bit don't connect with the metal bit of the phone, therefore it doesnt charge.
is it possible to have it fixed?and how much on average would someone charge to fix it?
Re: the charger connection at bottom of phone is dented
Of course u can replace it..this is call charger connector..after a long use it becomes dirty and dented,an not charging,ca't connect to PC and even can't listening to radio,i experienced this with my SE P990i..i don't sure what the price is at ur place...but the price for malaysia is below RM50..cheap la..
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this is a tricky one you need to open the phone. use a sucker place the sucker on the screen near to the home button. slowly pull up the screen slowly. when open up a bit you will see the screen connection etc carefully remove these.( take care of the hidden cable dont brake the flap that holds the cable in place just lift the black part from the bottom) and pull away the screen. now when this is done, take away the numbers cables in order it has them on it 123456 etc. and un screw the board. remove the sim card holder and lift from the bottom and pull out from the bottom at same time lifting up. now with board out clean the connections on the bottom of the board the copper squares etc a nail file pad will do. dont go to made doing it. then do the same to the others on the phone case. while the board is out get an old tooth brush and some nail varnish remover and put some on the tooth brush and clean out the connector for the usb and charger socket. and lave to dry. put phone back together in revers order. now when it is done plug into a pc/laptop not charger. it should turn on to charging leave to charge up fully. and phone should be fine.
It because if you looked where you charged your phone it might be dent you might off but your charger and click moving i know that because in my droid razer i did the same and know it wont charged that's why i using my motolora phone
When you say "you fixed the thingy" (ac jack), how did you fix said "thingy", did you open the laptop and replace the damaged/broken "thingy"? Need more info. Perhaps the "thingy" isn't fixed? Try remove any DVD,CD, USBs from the laptop, removing the "thingy" , remove the battery, Hold down the on/off button for 10 seconds, replace the battery, replace the "thingy" push the on/off button. That said, When you fixed the "thingy" was ALL power removed from the laptop AC plug, Battery, If not a short may have occurered.
The Processor has contact pins on the bottom. 478 of 'em. The Socket 478 processor socket has matching socket holes.
With a BGA surface mount there are no contact pins, nor socket holes.
In place of the contact pins there are Solder Balls. In place of the socket holes there are Copper Pads. (Which have a gold plating on them)
The graphics chipset is set into place over the motherboard, with it's Solder Balls lining up on the motherboard's matching Copper Pads.
Heat is then applied at a specific temperature, and length of time. The Solder Balls melt, which solders the graphics chipset to the Copper Pads. (Which in turn solders the graphics chipset to the motherboard)
With the inadequate cooling for the graphics chipset, after time the solder connections will begin to partially melt.
This leads to a poor contact of the graphics chipset to the motherboard, and the problem you are having.
As previously stated the cooling system for the graphics chipset, is inadequate.
Cooling System: The cooling system consists of a Cooling Tube, Heatsink, and Fan Assembly.
The Cooling Tube is a slightly flattened copper tube, filled with Nitrogen, and sealed on both ends.
Towards one end of the tube is an aluminum plate. This plate sits on top of the Processor. Has four screws through it. Removing these screws removes the cooling system assembly.
Coming up the tube a little bit, is another aluminum plate. This one is smaller, and sits on top of the graphics chipset.
Connected at the opposite end is the Heatsink. The Heatsink is a small thin piece of metal, with Tall, Thin, fins protruding from it.
Next to the Heatsink is the Fan Assembly. The Fan Assembly, is a Fan inside of a cage, or shroud.
Draws air up from the bottom of the laptop, and pushes it through the Heatsink's fins, and out the side of the laptop.
Heat from the graphics chipset, and the Processor, are absorbed by their metal plates. The Cooling Tube absorbs heat from the two aluminum metal plates.
The Cooling Tube transfers the heat along up to the Heatsink. The Heatsink absorbs the heat, then radiates it away with the Tall, Thin fins.
Airflow from the Fan Assembly, helps to carry heat away from the fins of the Heatsink.
The surface area of the metal plate on top of the graphics chipset, is too small. It is inadequate in surface area size.
The above is posted for reference. Pause the video at 7:43 to see the cooling system I described above.
1) Black Fan Assembly to the upper left.
2) To the immediate left side of the Fan Assembly is the Heatsink. Black in color, slightly rounded outside edge, goes along the full length of the left side of the Fan Assembly. Hard to discern the fins.
3) The aluminum X shaped piece with 4 black screws in it, on the copper Cooling Tube, is the metal plate for the Processor.
4) Coming up the copper Cooling Tube towards the Fan Assembly, is the second aluminum metal plate. It is shaped sort of like an S, with flat ends. This plate sits on top of the graphics chipset.
Solution? Properly remelt the solder connections of the graphics chipset, to the copper pads. Add surface area to the Processor's metal plate, and the graphics chipset's metal plate.
PROPER method is to use a BGA Rework Machine. Performed by a shop who has one.
ANY other method may is less than. The procedure may last a week, a month, or maybe longer.
There was a recall on this series of Notebook PC. It is over,
It may be due to power surge happening when you remove your charger from phone. 1.Try changing your power adapter 2. Switch off the power adapter first before removing the charger connection from your phone. 3. Remove the battery and clean the copper terminals with a cloth 4. If none of these idea works, then give a try my restoring your mobile to factory settings.
Hi. these situations are mostly caused by a bent or broken copper prong that is located within the input charger port that is inside the phone housing.
When you insert the charge cord into the input port, there are copper prongs that will have to connect to each other and , this contact point will transfer the necessarycurrent to the cell for a proper charge.
If the prongs are damage in any way due to broken copper or, bent copper prongs, this will prevent the necessary current from flowing to the cell.
Most remedies are crude like using a tooth pick or paper clip to straighten out the prongs inside the port. these methods do more harm than good and i recommend sending this phone in for a input port transplant. the manufacture or local repair depot is the best repair solution for this situation.
There is one thing that i would do before sending it to the repair depot. try using a completely different battery cell. if you purchase a new battery and the charger continues to not charge, this will confirm the input port failure.
Before you get creative and directly plug your batter into an AC adapter, try something much easier first. I have the same problem with my Olympus 770SW batteries. As silly as it sounds, the charger will only work in a select few outlets in my house that I found by trial an error, actually pure frustration. I suggest, go around your house and plug the blinking charger in all the outlets and see if you find one that works. That sounds a lot less shocking than solution 1 and 2 now doesn't it? Good luck!
Remove the back housing on the bottom half of the phone if the battery is in there then remove the battery aswell
then at the bottom of the area where the battery sat there should be a small metal plate with 6 or so little copper nobs underneath it.
slide the sim between the plate and the copper nobs making sure the cut off corner of the sim locates in the blanked corner of the slot.
Also make sure the copper face of the sim is what will be touching the copper nobs