Amp was connected directly to positive and negative terminals on car battery. spark flew when positive lead was connected to positive terminal. Front channel had RCA's already connected to the receiver. Now the amp powers on, but the front channel doesn't work at all, and the rear channel is terribly distorted. - What exactly happened, can the amp be fixed, where should trouble shooting begin, and what should be looked for. Thanks.
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Re: Can it Be Fixed
Nothing should have been damaged.
I would assume the speaker output shorted in one way or another...did you have a speaker hooked up?
You most likely blew the output transistors and they ALL need to be replaced as one going bad will kill the rest since they're so sensitive.
At least the PSU, seemingly, wasn't damaged.
Contact www.audiotekx.com, ask for Jason, he's excellent at repairing amps and has great pricing.
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Here are some simple things that you can check and look for.
Check the voltage at the amplifier power input terminals. You should have 12 to 14 volts there with the vehicle running and the radio turned on. Check the voltage between the positive terminal and the chassis ground. It should be 12 to 14 volts as well. Check for a fuse at the POSITIVE batery terminal on the line feeding your amp. There should be a large amperage fuse there. Make sure that it is not blown. Check that the vehicle ground wire (from the chassis to the battery NEGATIVE terminal) is corrosion free at both ends and is connected tightly.
Also check that there is no corrosion or loose connections on these high power cables. At 2500 watts output from your amplifier, you should probably have #4 or #000 wire runing to the amplifier. These cables (one for the positive line and one for the negative) should run directly from the battery to the amplifier.
To bridge an amp, connect the negative speaker lead of a speaker to the negative terminal of the first channel, and the positive speaker lead of the SAME speaker to the positive terminal of the second channel.
Check the connection of the rca cables coming from the radio. One way to test to make sure the speakers are connected properly is take a portable drill battery. Touch your positive and negative leads of your speaker wire to each terminal on your drill battery. If it pops that means they are properly connected. Also, What lights are on on the amp?
Like other car audio capacitors, the Volfenhag zx-hypercap has two terminals, a positive and a negative. The negative terminal is connected to the metallic frame of the vehicle (ground). The positive terminal is connected "in-line" with the amp 12V positive terminal.
The capacitor should be as close as possible to the amp. Within a couple of feet is acceptable.
The capacitor needs to be "charged" before connecting it directly to 12V positive. This is done with a 1000 ohm resistor and a voltmeter. The exact value of the resistor is not critical but it should be in the 500-1000 ohm range. Use at least a 1 watt resistor (your capacitor may have come with a resistor for charging).
You can find the color codes for a 1999 Buick Regal here. There is no dedicated amp remote wire. Neither is there a power antenna wire.
You could use the 12V "switched lead (yellow) from the radio or any switched 12V lead directly from the vehicle fuse box. I'd wire it through a dash mounted toggle switch so as to be able to turn the amp on and off manually.
The Sony 2150GSX is a 2-channel amp with the speaker terminals on either side. You do not want to ground the subwoofer itself, only the ground terminal should be connected to bare metal on the vehicle chassis or body as close to the amp as possible. The ground wire does not need to be run to the negative battery terminal.
A ground on one of the speaker leads will probably cause the amp not to power up. A ground on a speaker wire usually activates the amps protection circuit, causing it to not operate until the fault is corrected.
The 3v2-D4 Jl's have 4ohm voice coils. The 3v2-D2's have 2ohm voice coils. If you have the D4, you should run the voice coils in parallel, both positives and both negatives to the respective amp terminal. This will result in a 2ohm load to the amp. If you have the D2, I'd series the voice coils, jumper one positive to the other negative and connect the other positive and negative to the amp terminals. This will result in a 4ohm load to the amp.
Look on the speaker output terminals to see if there is an indication, usually a line between the positive (+) on one to the negative (-) on the other, with the word "bridged". If the bridging terminals are not indicated, you can always try one of the positives and the other negative. If there's no sound, it must be the other two terminals. Just be careful that you don't short the terminals, and don't crank the volume up without the sub connected. Some amps don't like an infinite load.
For an input to the amp from a stock OEM radio, your best solution is to use a "line out converter", connected to the rear speaker wires. The PAC SNI-45T shown in the link is one such device. This one includes a "remote turn-on" lead for the amp. You could use a cheaper LOC and just run 12V from an accessory lead on the truck. In this case, the amp will turn on and stay on whenever the ignition switch is in the "on" or "accessories" position. If this is objectionable, mount a SPST switch somewhere convenient and wire the turn-on wire through it.
disconnect the negative battery terminal, replace the fuse with all the wires hooked up to the amp and reconnect the battery terminal, that way the initial surge of power goes through the negative terminal and not your inline fuse. That should solve your problem.
I'm not familiar with this amplifier but in most cases, if a mono amp has more than one positive speaker terminal and more than one negative speaker terminal, the positives are directly connected and the negatives are directly connected. So as long as you connect the speaker positive to a positive speaker terminal of the amp and the speaker negative to a negative speaker terminal of the amp, it will work properly.
That company went out of business some years ago, so it's difficult to find the specs or pictures of it to be super accurate, but generally speaking it should have a "Battery", "Remote", and "Ground" set of terminals and a pair of spaker terminals each with a positive and negative. The battery terminal goes to the battery, the remote terminal goes to the remote output lead (usually blue/white) on the head unit, and the ground terminal goes to the chassis of the car. The speaker terminals go to the speakers (observe positive and negatives).