Question about Jl Audio 12W3 Car Subwoofer

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Blown subwoofer I did check with multimeter and there is no continuity and no ohm rating. Is there any way to repair this subwoofer or repair instructions? Please help!

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  • michaelnoh9 Nov 10, 2008

    Thank you very much for your reply.

    Is there any way to repair voice coil?

    Have a nice day!



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"Is there any way to repair voice coil?"

the simple answer is no.

the long answer is you could try contacting the mfg of the sub and see if you can order a new foam ring, cone and voice coil to replace the one you will have to destroy to take it out.

Posted on Mar 16, 2009

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If you don,t have a broken pigtail then the voice coil is probably burnt out

Posted on Nov 09, 2008


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see the diagram attached. and fix it. Use the multimeter , test the continuity wires for open or broken, repair or replace. Test the coil for speakers with multimeter by impedance( read the ohms in the speaker,read with the multimeter) repair or replace. test the fuse too.
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Check the heaters continuity with multimeter. The value should be whithin 5-50 Ohms, depending on heater rating power. If multimeter says infinity, the heater is broken, it shuld be replaced with good one. If continuity is ok, check the voltage on the heater in the running mode(should be equal pover supply voltage). If no voltage, control booard or probably heaters wiring are defected. Check the fuses in the heater circuit, if fused out, check short curcuit on the heaters (multimeter says sero Ohms) or somewere in the wiring. If you have control board schematics consult technician or qualified engineer what component mabe be defected. Check it with multimeter, try to replace them with good one.

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Check the ground wire to the amp, if you have a multimeter, set it to continuity and check the ground lug on the amp to the frame of the car, if there is more than say perhaps .1 ohm, i'd check the ground.
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You are going to need a multimeter and test the impedance rating on the subs (ohms) if they are frozen or blown they will short your amp. Be careful as your amp will not handle this abuse long.

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How did you "switch the sub from 2ohms to 4 ohms"?

If you have the swr-1222d as listed, your only options are wiring 1 or 4 ohm, as it is a dual 2 ohm voicecoil.

If it was wired @ 1 ohm - you may have already done the damage to your amplifier - as it is not rated @ 1ohm mono.

There are 3 reasons the amplifier will go into protect mode while playing...
Thermal - overheating due to too low impedence.
Ground Loop/Short Circuit - Blown voicecoil, bad amplifier ground, tinsel slap, etc.
Overload - Impedence not within specs.

Disconnect every wire (including RCAs) from the amplifier. Reconnect only power and ground - make a short wire to loop from power terminal to remote terminal.

If the amplifier stays on without turning off - remove the jumper, add the remote wire, and try again.

If it turns off - the problem is internal and needs repair.

Still on? plug in 1 rca, and re-try.... then the other.

Still going??

Now use an Ohm Meter - or Digital multimeter set to ohms 20, and check both voicecoils. They should read 2ohms +/- .5ohm.

If they are OK, wire up the 4ohm load (series the voicecoils) and turn the gain on the amplifier to 1/2.

Retry -

If the amplifier continues to fail at higher volumes - the thermal protection relay has become weakened because of your improper wiring, and will need to be repaired to solve your issue.

Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

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Let our Experts solve your "My amp lights up like normal then protection light red comes on and turns the amp off resets and tries again. What would be my course of action

disconnect all wires (including RCAs)
reconnect positive, ground, and remote.
Turn amplifier (car) on.
If it goes into protect mode again - there is an internal fault that requires professional repair.
If the amplifier idles as normal - turn off the car. Plug in RCAs & re-try
Failure? - replace RCAs as they may be pinched or faulty.

Lastly if all connections are made and amplifier idles without going into protection - you need to concentrate on your load (subwoofers).
Be sure they are wired properly into a resistance that amplifier is rated.
The lowest impedence that amplifier is rated is 2ohm.
That is possible with (2) 4 ohm subwoofers wired in parallel....
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(1) Quad 1 ohm subwoofer...
or (1) Dual 4 ohm voicecoil subwoofer.

Any other combination will result in an impedence too low for your amplifier.

Using an OhmMeter (Digital multimeter set to Ohms 20) test each voicecoil against its advertised resistance. It should be CLOSE +/- .5 Ohms.

Any other reading means the voicecoil is blown.

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Try and move the speaker up and down. If it is hard, or you hear scratching - it is blown.

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