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see the diagram attached. and fix it. Use the multimeter , test the continuity wires for open or broken, repair or replace. Test the coil for speakers with multimeter by impedance( read the ohms in the speaker,read with the multimeter) repair or replace. test the fuse too. God bless you
Use an Ohm meter and test at the speaker. On the speaker magnet there will be an Ohm rating (Usually 4Ohms). The reading could be between 2-6 and you should be OK. Anything outside this range may cause problems. Another to look ta is the surround of the speaker. This the part that connects the cone to the frame. Make sure it is not torn and is still flexible. There are not any user replaceable parts, so if they are blown it is time to get some new speakers.
This is usually due to wiring the subwoofers to the wrong Ohm load. Normally those amps are rated at a 4 Ohm load. It sounds to me like they are wired down to a 2 Ohm load and bridged. It's a protection situation for the amp. If you have a multimeter, disconnect the woofers from the amp. Next, hook the meter up to the subwoofers where the wire or wires are coming out of the box. If you can give more information on the woofers, I can give you a better idea on what the numbers that you should see. It depends on if they are dual 2 or 4 Ohm woofers.
Check the ground wire to the amp, if you have a multimeter, set it to continuity and check the ground lug on the amp to the frame of the car, if there is more than say perhaps .1 ohm, i'd check the ground.
You could have also blown out a fuse or two on the amp it's self. That may be a better place to start.
Hmmm, let me see here. Did you mean to say you have TWO subs connected to this amp? A single sub can only be wired in series with the amp. Even if you have a capacitor wires in parallel, the capacitor is not a load, but a souce equivilant, and therefore can be merged with the amp as a single source when put on paper.
When they say a sub or amp is so many watts rms, that means that the device can function safely, without worry of failure. THERE IS NO LEGAL METHOD FOR DETERMINING THIS NUMBER AND NO REGULATIONS ON VARIANCES. Having said that, if an amp is 500w rms, it could very well push double that for long enough to blow your speaker. It all depends on how much power went through that speaker. So since you have a 4 ohm speaker, not two, and it would actually act like a two ohm speaker if you put another one in parallel because 4||4=2ohms equivilant. never never never, turn the bass all the way up if your gonna beat loud. Low frequencies draw lots of power and can damage your system.
you can tell if your speaker is blown by turning the volume to a medium listening level and placing your hand on the cone. you will hear a crackling sound if it is blown
How did you "switch the sub from 2ohms to 4 ohms"?
If you have the swr-1222d as listed, your only options are wiring 1 or 4 ohm, as it is a dual 2 ohm voicecoil.
If it was wired @ 1 ohm - you may have already done the damage to your amplifier - as it is not rated @ 1ohm mono.
There are 3 reasons the amplifier will go into protect mode while playing... Thermal - overheating due to too low impedence. Ground Loop/Short Circuit - Blown voicecoil, bad amplifier ground, tinsel slap, etc. Overload - Impedence not within specs.
Disconnect every wire (including RCAs) from the amplifier. Reconnect only power and ground - make a short wire to loop from power terminal to remote terminal.
If the amplifier stays on without turning off - remove the jumper, add the remote wire, and try again.
If it turns off - the problem is internal and needs repair.
Still on? plug in 1 rca, and re-try.... then the other.
Now use an Ohm Meter - or Digital multimeter set to ohms 20, and check both voicecoils. They should read 2ohms +/- .5ohm.
If they are OK, wire up the 4ohm load (series the voicecoils) and turn the gain on the amplifier to 1/2.
If the amplifier continues to fail at higher volumes - the thermal protection relay has become weakened because of your improper wiring, and will need to be repaired to solve your issue.
Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
The Sub gets it's output from the pre-amp circuit, whereas the components get their output from the main amp circuit in the unit.
Sounds like it could be a short in the speaker wiring or a blown speaker. Check all wiring to the speakers.
Check all speaker wires from the unit to the speakers.
check that each pair of speaker terminals at the speaker end is not
touching. Or, a wire fell of 1 terminal to rest on another.
way to check if it's a blown speaker or a wiring short, is to
disconnect all speaker connections ( at the speaker end ) making sure
the disconnected wires don't touch each other or any metal in the car.
press the reset on the unit and power up. If the unit powers up ok,
then its a blown speaker.
Otherwise it's a short in the wiring.
If it's a blown speaker, you can connect 1 speaker at a time and the blown 1 will send the unit into protect mode again.
it's the wiring, disconnect the unit from the wiring and use and ohm
meter to check each pair of cables. A reading suggests a short.
If you don't have an ohm meter a battery and bulb will do. This method usually works on a short.
you have no joy with either method, take each speaker wire in turn and
check with a source of earth (anything metal connected directly to the
body of the car, cigar lighter main body when pulled slightly out is
how did u wire the speaker ?what is the speaker rated at 2 ohm or 4ohm? thees kicker l7s 15 inch is rated for 1000 rms and 2000 peak the only thing that could of hapend was somthing was touching some were in the wiring or u hade the speaker wired at a load of 1 ohm