Screws included for wall mounting don't fit (Altec Lansing MX5021)
Hi - the "wall mounting" kit included two foam-backed mounts and two small black screws. I know the foam back should be against the speaker and it's obvious which of the two holes is for the wall and which to attach to the speaker. The included screw fits perfectly into the mount but doesn't go more than 1 turn into the speaker. The only other hole in the back of the speaker is an enormous gold threaded one - certainly not the size of the screw.
Should I just be forcing it - are they supposed to fit? I am worried about splitting something. I could try to find another set of screws, but it's lame that the gear included doesn't work without what might be a worrying amount of force.
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Sounds like you might have a wire loose at the other side of the controller. This is a easy thing to find out. Just unscrew the side screws that hold the back board to the cabinet. Don't unscrew the screws connected to the speaker wire clips unless the back doesn't come off. Just look for a disconnected wire at the controller jack then put it back. If there is no loose wire then you might have a bent female contact at the outside of the controller jack. You would have to look for this looking into the holes where you plug the cable into the controller jack. If you see a bent contact then use a thin nail of ice pick and insert it into the hole where the bent connector is to try to re open the contact so the cable can slip into it easy. Don't forget to unplug the power first.
I had a similar problem with my Altec Lansing BX2 speakers. When bringing my HP PC out of "Sleep Mode" (Windows 7), I either had a blank screen with only a cursor or a desktop with no start menu, desktop icons or any means to operate the computer. After unplugging the speakers and hard booting the computer, the PC returned to normal operation. I'm looking for a solution myself.
The problem I have found is the contact glue between the back panel and circuit board inside the sub woofer. The glue becomes conductive after some time (2 years..!!) and needs to be scraped away from across tracks, you can tell the problem areas as the glue is pale yellow but goes brown and conductive over time. Good luck. Regards aj
Old school audio output push and pull circuit is toast. the electronic audio output stage is made of a preamp, drivers, and output stage.
Use to be able to change out the tubes or top hat transitors now it is a package that is sealed inside and soldered to a ckt board that is sealed inside of the case with no easy access to it, without destroying the container and re-engineering a put back together. A new wolfer amp combo is needed. Less head ache