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I have a Bosch, and I am not really familiar with your model Hitachi. However, I do know that most compound miter saws have a locking pin that clicks in at frequently used settings like 90 and 45. This pin must be released (pulled out) before the bevel can be changed.
If you have the gear cases apart and the bevel gear exposed then you just push the planetary shaft up through the middle of the bevel gear. You will see that the shaft is driven by the gear via a loose fitting pin through the shaft. Pull the pin out (with fingers) and then the bevel gear will lift up off the shaft without the need to fully remove the shaft. Note the fibre spacer/thrust washer under the bevel gear between the bottom case and gear, don't lose it.
Check everything you have done for a mistake, the pin through the planetary, the pin through the fuse gear and the pin in the main shaft that drives the bevel gear. That's the gear that pinion gear on the fuse gear shaft mates with. After that you are left with a fuse gear fault. I am assuming that the motor is turning at normal speeds and not somehow binding up, no reason why it should as motor stays in one piece during gear changing procedure.
set the blade at the built in 90 degree lock, now use a square and adjust the fence (usually two bolts visible on top of the fence) to the blade at 90 degrees....there are some shops which offer this service under a "tune-up" or calibration.
The Ryobi RJ160V does not have a clutch, it has a direct drive system: the armature has a gear pressed on the end of it that turns a bevel gear with an off-set pin on it. This pin fits into a slot on the end of the saw bar assembly which is what you attach the blade to. If you have slipping it could be stripped armature gear teeth or bevel gear teeth or both or the pin on the bevel gear is broke off.
To square up a mite saw blade, you need to eeither move the table or adjust it to be square if it is out in the mitre angle, or if it is out in the bevel angle the whole saw head needs to be adjusted, and this is done via the bevel adjustment at the back of the saw. There may be a bevel stop bolt to return the saw back to 90 degrees if moved to a different bevel angle. Usually the blade itself is not adjusted bu either the saw table or the bevel angle of the saw head itself to correct these issues.
My craftsman 10-inch radial saw (model#113.199200) just stopped working. I had it in the driveway cutting some wood without any problems. It sat for a half hour and I went to use it again and it was running half speed then before I could even turn it off it just died. There was no popping sound or smoke, nothing! It will not start. Need help, please?
If you look on the back of the saw where the pivot is, there should be a bolt on either side that should adjust how much bevel there is . As for a 90 degree angle, there should be a locking pin or stop to keep it from leaning out of square. Be sure that it is accepting the pin properly and that it is clean. Not sure if there is an adjustment on the sliding saw, but i know there wasn't on my dual compound mitre saw