THERE IS A SOLONIOD VALVE WHERE YOU CONNECT THE WATER SUPPLY. IN IT IS A FINE SCREEN THAT MAY BE STOPPED UP OR THE VALVE MAY BE BAD. ALSO TAKE THE COVER OFF THE ICEMAKER AND LOOK FOR A CAME WITH A SLOT IN IT. TAKE A SCREWDRIVER AND SLOWELY TURN TO THE RIGHT ( I THINK) AND SEE IF YOU HEAR THE VALVE COME ON AND WATER COMING INTO THE ICEMAKER.
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I would suspect the switch controlled by the tray full sensing arm/bail. That's kind of like the main power switch for the ice maker. You can remove the outer cover from the ice maker with the power unplugged! Then look at the mechanical operation of that lever as it relates to the switch. The lever should cause the switch to open and shut off the timer motor. Some times you can buy the timer separately otherwise you replace the whole icemaker. Don't forget to remove power and turn off the water before you remove the old icemaker.
This problem where the icemaker is not working properly is usually broken into sections on diagnoseing the issue of why your not getting ice out of the icemaker. One of the first things that you should check is if the icemaker is getting water to the ice tray. If you are not getting water to the ice tray then the first thing you should check would be your water filter. If your water filter is clogged or dirty you will not get any water going to the icemaker. Following checking the filter and if you still had no water going to the icemaker you would then go around the back of the machine and test the water valve. By using a multimeter you can test the two connectors that plug onto the solenoids to assure that you do have power going to the water valve. Also in some cases you may be able to disconnect the line and clean the small screens on the inside of the valve but most of the time if there is any issue with the valve it is by far easier to just replace the water valve itself. If you do have water going to the Ice maker yet your icemaker is still not working. You can also try defrosting the ice maker by disconnecting the three screws holding the ice maker in place and removeing the entire icemaker and running it under hot water. Sometimes this does help to defrost parts that are froozen in the unit. If after you reinstall the ice maker and you do have water going to the ice maker yet your unit still does not produce ice, and you can feel ice on the inside the tray and you have tried defrosting the ice maker. It is always easier and cheaper to replace the ice maker as a whole rather then buying parts for the ice maker which would cost you about Four times as much as buying a new icemaker
Try swapping the wires on the dual water inlet valve. It’s on the back where the water supply comes in. Then try the water dispenser. The water should go to the ice maker. This will tell you weather or not the ice maker valve is working and if the line is clear.
The water inlet valve on the back of unit opens when the ice maker needs water. If the valve doesn't seal good because of sediment or wear it will continue to drip and when the water reaches the ice maker supply tube it will freeze blocking the fill tube.. You can take the water line off the valve and watch to see if it drips.
if the ice maker cycles but is not getting water check the water supply valve that supplies the water to the machine it split and sends water to the door and the ice maker that side of the valve that goes to the ice maker could be bad you can test it with a 120 volt line cord plugged in the wall plug to that side of the water valve if it works with the hose disconnected it may be a blockage or frozen line to the ice maker
Try swapping the wires on the dual water inlet valve. Then
try the water dispenser. The water should go to the ice maker. This will tell
you weather or not the ice maker valve is working and if the line is clear.
The water inlet valve on the back of unit opens when the ice
maker needs water. If the valve doesn't seal good because of sediment or wear
it will continue to drip and when the water reaches the ice maker supply tube
it will freeze.You can take the water
line off the valve and watch to see if it drips.
If you manually advance the ice and when the ejector blade reaches 10 oclock that when it calls for water. You should hear the valve come on. If not it could be a bad water valve. Part#2552A or you might want to doublecheck to see if your getting voltage there when the blade reaches 10 oclock. If no voltage then the water switch is bad.
The cyle is stuck in the midway section. Unpluh the water supply to ice maker anf see if it will return to the fitst stage, If not we will need to look into the ice maker to see if one of the contacts is stuck. Is this a new ice maker and desighned for your refrigeratorr? Sea Breeze
Likely that the water supply tube to the icemaker is frozen. It will be a white rubber tube on the right side of the icemaker. Warm it with a hair dryer, remove it from its aluminum tubing, and make sure there is no ice all the way back to where the supply tube comes from the water valve. After thawing, your icemaker should start working again.
Now..... why did it freeze? Most likely, there is a restricted airflow to the back of the unit, which is need to keep that aluminum supply tube just warm enough to assure all the water flow OUT of it into the icemaker, and doesn't freeze up on contact. Make sure your coils and the airspace under the fridge are completely clean (vacuuum them well) and it should cure the problem.