Question about Zenith R40W46 40" Rear Projection HDTV-Ready Television

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Bad electric shorting sound

My tv started makeing a pretty loud electric shorting sound.i unplugged it,then plugged it back made the same sound,but will pause then do it agian pause and agian.does anybody have a idea.

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Re: bad electric shorting sound

When your tv starts making this kind of noises is ussually related to high voltage or a degraded component,If you are familiar with tv service you can remove the back and take a look just to check if you can see what is making the sound,sometimes you can see it if it is a degraded component cooking but if it is a heavy leakage of high voltage you will not see it and it can be dangerous to be even close to it,If you decide to go in to check you need to be very carefull ,I would suggest you call for assistance from a servicer if you are not too familiar with tv service.

Posted on Oct 26, 2006

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Had tv for 4 years very well kept and now it wont turn on after a loud sound then turned off and now it wont turn back on what could it be? i have a 48 inch jvc model #AV48P776

You can try to unplug and then plug it back in and see what it does. If you just hear one loud snap when it went out and not more noises, then its likely your Horizontal Output transistor that shorted out. I've seen one that just needed to be resoldered, it was soldered too close and ARCed causing the snap and shutdown, then it was shorted but just temporarily. If you plug it back in and then it thumps over and over, then you have a short somewhere, usually on the 210 volt line (video output ICs) or on the +-24volt line (convergence ICs)

let me know more info and we can diagnose if for sure. almost all repairs will require some soldering/disassembly skills, but depending, it could be easy.

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The TV made incredibly loud disturbing sound followed by the screen never coming on. Is this only a lamp issue?

it sound like a colorwheel issue, when they go bad it makes a pretty load roaring sound and the tv will not come on

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I've got a toshiba 57H83 rear projection tv. Last night it crackle and went out. The power in the front was flashing. So I unplugged it and plugged it back in and it sounded like an electrical short. Could...

I have had a shorted picture tube do that on a Toshiba before. It could also be a Flyback transformer arcing.
You should call a good TV Tech for an estimate.

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Projection tv not working

I guess loud sizzling was from High Voltage Splitter in your TV. HV seems cracked and leaking high voltage.

You can observe and confirm it by removing back cover and power up TV from distance and check at rear of TV. Please take care and there should be little dark to observe arc from HV splitter.

If this is the case, HV splitter available in Part Store.

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Sharp LC-32DA5U

sounds like youve had a pic tube go out,,probly just one and the other 2 are still good,,thats why it came bck on,,take it to a tv shop ,know ,,want be that much if its just one pic tube,,good luck

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TV made a loud popping sound and quit working

Bad IHVT ( transformer ) = Part # 239111 use original only, no cheap subs !...............T.

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TV turned off and wont come back

looks like the color wheel its bad in the set,color wheel its not spining at its proper speed( one of the segments may be broken)
thats the vibration you are hearing.. and the set its trying to turn on..until you replace the wheel you will be able to watch tv again.

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Bad IHVT ( flyback transformer)--need complete service
number off back for part #-----------Let me know...T.

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2 Answers

Popping noises and no picture or sound

try replacing the stk's on the deflection board (making sure that all of the resistors on the board are OK and that there are no solder cracks I found one of the jumpers had a bad solder joint on the one I worked on) but if that doesn't fix I have some raw research that might give you somewhere to start :
No. The CRT driver ICs are prone to shorting and cause this symptom (I just had one with those very symptoms and the green CRT driver IC was shorted). Disconnecting the CRT board does not clear the short on the board. Often then is a small burn mark on the CRT board under the affected IC (but not always). The IC should be a TDA6111Q. Be sure to note the proper position
of the IC as it should face with the letters TOWARD the heat sink!!!!

Larry, Check the CRT driver ICs on each of the CRT boards.
Bob Waterman, CET® #RI-28
Master Technician License #9109
Service Manager / Parts Manager
Gemini Computer, TV, & Security Alarms
(508)695-7769 FAX
Hi Guys, I don`t see many JVC`s and don`t have the print for this AV48WP30, went out this morning and as customer claimed on phone when you plug set in and turn on it makes a loud thump thump in both speakers 20-30 times then relay clicks, the thump stops, and blue idiot light on front goes dim/bright, dim/bright, have to unplug set to start this same scenario over again. Never develops HV or audio, Will order the service manual today, but would like to know if anyone has seen this before (should say "heard" this before)
I would disconnect each crt board and hv lead one at a time and try. Have seen several bad tubes on that model. The only other problem I have seen on that set is bad convergence amps, however that doesn't cause shutdown.
Perry Bower
Electric Medic
From Tech Repair CD:
JVC\AV48WP74\just went click*click*click when turned on Video drive IC (IC1101) on the red CRT module
shorted. It looked like bad solder on the B+ was the cause

Frequently Used Top Five Repair Parts by symptom code
Above from JVC Web site, also I have seen shorted video drive IC's on the crt boards short and cause this symptom. Try unplugging the 200 volt source to the crt boards and see it the set powers up and stays on. There is a B+ relay which supplies 130 Volts to the horizontal output circuit. Is this relay energizing? I takes about five seconds after the power is turned on for it to energize. If a short is detected on the 130 volt line the blue power lamp on the front will do what you describe and the relay will pulse on and off. (David)

Non-functional Digital Input
1. Power off the unit
2. Disconnect the digital input if it is connected
3. Remove the rear cover
4. On the digital input module, using a shorting pin (PC type) or a
jumper, short Pin 1 and Pin 2 of the
SB connector
5. Power on the unit
6. Unplug the unit and remove the shorting pin or the jumper
7. Re-attach the unit’s rear cover
8. Power on the unit, and input the digital source

Jan 16, 2007 | JVC AV-48WP74 48" Rear Projection...

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